Dreidel

haha h*** yeah

was as in no longer?

HighLux

Yeah...I sold her. Was a sweet sweet ride...but it gobbled up money faster than a Khardasian on a shopping spree.

Best of 11.06 in the quarter @118 with a terrible 60ft.

I broke alot of LS1 hearts.

Dreidel

lol what a shame
pretty quick time
on youtube there is a guy with a 2jz in his truck and it runs like a 7 second quarter but this is my budget built daily driver and enough power to do that kind of times is just way to much to handle on the street maybe not on dry pavement but if its wet or snowy i wouldn't get nowhere
i wouldnt mind doing a actual engine swap on mine but finding a decent donor car around here sucks would like a 1uz but even finding one thats cheap is tough, i think theres one on craigslist for 900 and its a mechanic special but i dont have 900 dollars laying around

wannaBwheelin'

I own a factory turbo 4runner and the difference between a 22ret and a 22re is quite a bit, the chamber on the 22ret head is larger to lower the compression, the blocks are identical other than the oiling port for the turbo and the drain for the oil from the turbo many 22re blocks already have the bosses cast into the blocks. the cam shaft i believe is different for the turbo also. so basically you can use the block, crank, rods, timing cover and some miscellaneous parts from the 22re. so you'll want to save as much from the turbo engine as possible. I'm going thru the same process with my 4runner which had a cracked block and turbo manifold. good luck on the project!

Dreidel

yeah i have the complete block with the engine part of the wire harness
i tore into the engine sunday to check the it out. the truck was infested with mud dobbers and for being on the edge of a feild for god knows how long i didnt find any pack rat nests suprisingly. as it turns out the plenum and the intake runners make a hellova shelter for packrats. got lots of cleaning to do (perfect excuse to port the head like crazy along with the runners to get rid of all that crap) back on subject anyway i have always been unsure of the talk of the forged crank in the 22rte's and its true btw for anyone else that was confused on that. good news and bad news good is the crank is indeed forged and (thank god) its good bearings have typical were and crank looks new, bad knews isnt really that bad but the timing chain guides exploded in this motor (so many plastic peices i couldnt tell what it was because when mine went there was only 2 pieces in the pan, the rte motor had a handfull and tons of sludge hopefully it didnt cut into the timing cover, being in highschool my budget real high.
and if anybody cares i drewup some drawings for a egr block off, 22re exhaust manifold flange, and the wmgt flange off the he351ve
my turbo showed up in the mail today only disappointment was the seller used packing peanuts and didnt cover any of the inlets or outlets so its got to come apart so i can clean it out. i have never felt a turbo with less side to side play and there is no end to end play. i think i should be able to get my money back out of it if i sell the holset actuator.
ive heard that the factory rte will hold 20 reliably if you have the fuel to support it but thats as high as it will take, do you think it will hold 15 if i upgrade fuel (been doing some research into toyotahondas setup)

wannaBwheelin'

I'm still not quite sure on boost capacities. I've heard somewhere (not knowing if its true or false) that the stock 22ret computers can only handle 10 psi of boost with the primitive fuel parameters that they have, but I've also have also seen tons of people running 15 psi with upgraded fuel delivery. The stock bottom end can supposedly hold 26 psi but your weak point in the system is the head gasket. ARP head studs are a MUST! I wouldn't bump up the boost without upgrading to ARP head studs. I feel that a 330CC/ min injector should handle the boost. I've found that this web site has had plenty of helpful information about working with a 22ret
http://www.well.com/~mosk/welcome.htm

Dreidel

i for one am fine with the head gasket being a weak point im going to arp stud the head, possibly the rods and mains but that adds up quick. id rather limp my truck home than have to call my step dad and while hes loading it on the trailer me be dodging traffic picking up whats left off the oil pan and scattered pistons
that well site is good, the reason i want to stay around 15 is because of boost spike. the holset im using is vgt so its unwastegated and the controller im making is manually controlled based of boost and vacuum so im not sure how fast it will react, when or if it will spike and most of the info i can find on the controllers is for diesels. so this is a fly by the seat of the pants type of deal where when its tuned it should run like a banshee but untill then i have to be carefull as the he351ve is capable of 40 psi easy

here are those flanges i drew up the exhaust one doesnt have any dimentions on it yet but i will post it later



if you use a program like this i can send you the files just pm me

Dreidel

i want to get some factory 2jzgte (550cc if i recall right) injectors because they are the same types of injectors just at 90 degrees (nothin a little fabbin cant solve )
and holset will defiantly need some support cause that thing is heavy, it weighs 51 pounds)

Dreidel

if any of you guys reading this are thinking about going to turbo your motor, if you find a turbo thats roughly the right size and has a vband clamp on the exhaust side, GET IT!!! they are awesome. no more bolts to loose or mix up my 351 has vbands on the compressor and the turbine side. came apart real easy
anyways here is the drawing of the 22re exhaust manifold with dimentions

wannaBwheelin'

What are your plans ECU wise for the build? with the stock turbo ECU i'm supposedly stuck with 10psi max boost due to the fuel parameters, is a stand alone ECU in the near future?

Dreidel

My plans ecu wise is obd1 Honda civic ecu with throttle body and assorted sensors. The megasquirt seems ok but 400 for a ecu that I have to build myself doesn't seem to appealing. Not sure what the capabilities of the stock ecu are but if you are going to push the limits invest in a air fuel ratio gauge, turn up the boot until you start running lean (don't do this and test it out going to work or something where you have to be there by a certain time, find a good sized empty parking lot or something because while being lean for a minute is fine prolonged exposure can and will be damaging) then turn it back a few psi to be safe. Megasquirt is good because you can adjust fuel maps for your boost curve that way it you can keep it in roughly the same spot afr wise ( you can do the same thing with a Honda ecu with a programmable chip) in reality the Honda ecu will probably be jut as much work ( couldn't amagine it being more shouldn't be too hard) but will be cheaper IMO
I think the honda ecu will be best but tht depends or your ability to read simple wireing diagrams/ do it yourselfness/ and ability to value money over time I guess. Either way I have a few hours researching the megasquirt setup and either one will take time to complete ( plus some of the megasquirt instructions I find to be confusing)