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1992 turbo 22re swap injector problems

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Old 04-11-2010, 07:19 PM
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1992 turbo 22re swap injector problems

i'm finishing up with a turbo motor build/swap on my 1992 pickup. i've had it running and have about 140 miles on the new engine. the problem i'm having is i've gone through 2 ecm's in that 140 miles. the first one went at about 50 miles. i was putting around and it just died as if you shut the switch off. i did some checking and it has spark and fuel pressure, so i believe the injectors are not pulsing. once the engine cooled down it will sort of attempt to run off the cold start injector. i end up replacing the ecm with a spare i had and the truck fires up and runs fine for the next 90 miles. it then randomly dies again on me. i swap the original ecm back in just for kicks and it started and ran for a couple miles before dying again. once again, after cooling off it will try to run on the cold start injector but otherwise won't run. i'm using some factory rte injectors i had and i'm wondering if they don't agree with the later ecm. i was pretty sure i read that swap had been done before but i've got 2 apparently fried ecm's now and need to get something figured out. consequently, if anyone out there has a ecm for a 90-newer 22re/auto/4x4 truck, i want to get ahold of a couple. thanks for your input.
Old 04-13-2010, 04:47 PM
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I'm 99% certain that the turbo injectors are low impedance. Your newer ECU might be designed for high impedance injectors. The end result would be a fried injector driver in the ECU. The solution would be to add an injector resistor pack from a donor vehicle, but you shouldn't be running turbo injectors on a non turbo ECU anyways. The N/A ECU is designed around an injector about 40% smaller. Running the larger injectors is simply going to overfuel you EVERYWHERE on the fuel map. I bet you get really ty gas mileage. Just run the non-turbo injectors on the non-turbo ECU.
Old 04-13-2010, 07:34 PM
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hello and thanks for the reply. after countless hours of research on the web, i came to the same conclusion. i need to use a injector driver resistor that is a factory part on anything pre-88. the 295cc injectors actually seem to be very well sized for my application. i'm running all stock fuel injection(due to having a electronically controlled auto, i'm stuck with it) the motor is fairly built-h beam rods, arp hardware, doa racing head and custom grind cam, garrett gt2560 ball bearing turbo, and so on... i'm running the injectors because i had them, and didn't realize there would be a problem until now. i think i'm going to install the resistor and keep em because according to my lm-2 wideband i'm running a consistent 14-12 afr from idle to wot, full boost. i did adjust the spring tension on the afm flapper door, something like 18 clicks tighter-effectively "tricking" the ecm to think there's less air incoming and adding less fuel, to make up for the 50% bigger they are than the stockers the ecm is programmed for. i also drilled the soft plug in the afm near the outlet and adjusted the idle mixture as it was a little rich as well. what really amazes me about this setup is how well the stock 22re fuel management took to it. i'm currently running 10lbs boost and have never had my afr stray from a safe range. it has made a completely different vehicle out of it- it's a blast to drive on the highway now, instead of borderline embarassing. i'm going to creep the boost up as the engine gets broken in, until i start running into ping-just to know how much ths stock program can handle, as far as boost. i will keep everyone posted as to if the resistor fixes the problem and an official number on how many pounds of boost a stock 22re ecm can "safely" handle.
Old 04-05-2011, 11:01 AM
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so i completely forgot about this thread but figured i'd update it as it may help someone doing a similar build in the future. the injector driver did solve my problem, i just robbed one off a first gen runner and wired it in as it was stock. problem solved with frying ecm's. as to the amount of boost i was able to attain before starting to go lean, it is able to run to about 6 psi before things start to lean out. as stated before, this is with a stock, non-turbo ecm running a set of stock rte injectors so converting to turbo can be done without having to swap computers/wiring harnesses. i am currently running about 12 psi, using 2 cold start injectors mounted in the intake with one coming in at about 5psi and the other at about 8.
Old 06-10-2011, 08:47 PM
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How are you powering the 2 injectors. I have a similar set up. By the way you should use a timing retard with a non turbo ecu. The turbo ecu retards the timing quite a bit.
Old 06-13-2011, 07:26 AM
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i'm using a couple hobbs style pressure switches to trigger the injectors. i know i technically should modify my ignition advance table when running boost but i've not had any problems whatsoever with detonation so i will just run with the setup that i've got since it's been working great and i'm cheap. i do plan on utilizing the cold start injector as a third stage of additional fuel and give her some more boost so i may find as i continue to ramp things up that i can't get away with no timing retard anymore. i will continue to make updates to the thread as i tinker.
Old 06-17-2011, 09:10 PM
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Very cool! I went through hell with my wiring. I used another turbo harness. I have a build thread on marlin. Those guys are kinda clicky so I came over here. I would love to see some pics. Where did you get the hobbs switches? How did you tap into the fuel rail? I live 4600ft up so mine, so far is running fine.(checked the plugs) I'm running 15lbs of boost. My runner is a rocket. I love it!

Last edited by snow walker; 06-17-2011 at 09:15 PM.
Old 06-23-2011, 09:44 AM
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I have an 87 toyota I swapped all parts for the injection sytem and all wiring except headlights from a 89 toyota truck I can get engine to fire of for a second but can't get it to stay running now I don't know toyota well but if like a normal car when I turn key to run fuel pum should start right well it isn't and my fuel pump only staarts when key is turned to the starts spot any ideas
Old 06-24-2011, 07:56 AM
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pull the black plastic lid off your afm, key the ignition to on and turn the vein by hand, as soon as it opens the fuel pump should trigger on. if it doesn't, you've got a issue in the system. the fact it'll build initial pressure tells me the circuit is working, and the pump is capable of running and building pressure. the switch in the afm is what triggers the pump to run after initial key up, so that's where i'd place my suspicions. hope that helps.
Old 06-24-2011, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by snow walker
Very cool! I went through hell with my wiring. I used another turbo harness. I have a build thread on marlin. Those guys are kinda clicky so I came over here. I would love to see some pics. Where did you get the hobbs switches? How did you tap into the fuel rail? I live 4600ft up so mine, so far is running fine.(checked the plugs) I'm running 15lbs of boost. My runner is a rocket. I love it!
i got the hobbs switches off ebay, the're adjustable for pressure via a set screw so you can trigger them at any pressure you like instead of them being set to come on off at a pre determined, non adjustable point. i tapped into the fuel system at a small splice block where the fuel line comes off the frame rail under the firewall and heads towards the engine. i took the splice connector out, drilled a hole in the center of it and tapped it. i used some high pressure vinyl fuel line out of a fuel injection system repair kit i have(purchased at carquest) it was expensive but comes with crimp clamps, pressure line, and buttloads of connectors including the cool quick connect fuel line ends. i'll try to take some better pics and post em but in the mean time, check out the ones at this link.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx...3136A7D36A!186

Last edited by homey_15; 06-24-2011 at 08:02 AM.
Old 07-05-2011, 08:46 PM
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Wow I dig you truck. Nice build. I'll have to look into those switches. I'm sure I could use some more fuel after 10lbs or so.
Old 07-06-2011, 05:48 AM
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i'm pretty happy with the switches, i think they were like 10 bucks apiece and they just set(engagement pressure) with a small torx driver on a set screw. when fuel is added in stages like this, it's a pretty good idea to wire a led into the circuit with each additional injector, so when the fuel comes in, the light comes on. makes for a good fail-safe if you don't have a wideband permanently mounted, at least you know the circuit is or isn't working so you aren't going lean and having a meltdown. plus there's something cool about watching the lights start coming on as you get into the boost.
Old 07-06-2011, 06:34 AM
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Interesting that your truck was able to even run

Also nice build and pictures

BigMike
Old 07-06-2011, 09:44 AM
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how so? the fact that the re computer is running rte injectors? thanks for the complements, i've done some other neat little mods to it, i need to take some pics and add them to the folder.

Originally Posted by BigMike
Interesting that your truck was able to even run

Also nice build and pictures

BigMike
Old 07-06-2011, 06:27 PM
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Hey Big Mike wanna race another turbo truck? I got one for ya!! LOL
Old 07-07-2011, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by homey_15
how so? the fact that the re computer is running rte injectors?
Hmmmm I'm not sure, just that I didn't even think the low impedance injectors could even operate on a high impedance system. It is interesting to learn this.

Originally Posted by snow walker
Hey Big Mike wanna race another turbo truck? I got one for ya!! LOL
Absolutely, I'll take a stock turbo 22R-TE any time, any where, any place. I'll even let ya run up to 8 psi boost and little 35" tires
Old 07-07-2011, 09:55 AM
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LOL I'm just messing with ya Mike. I love your yota. I've got lots of marlin stuff on my runner. My motor is built to stock specs. I added eagle rods,forged pistons,molly rings,T3/t4 turbo 16psi, stock cam,ecu, and injectors. However in Belgrade MT were 4600ft above sea level. Come on up and lets do some snow wheelin'. I'll leave on my 42's and the 16lbs of boost and well have some fun. For the record if I had to do it over again, I would do exactly what you did.(3rz swap)
Old 07-11-2011, 07:48 AM
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That sounds awesome man! It sounds like your engine will rip mine apart for sure! I need to do more snow wheeling, I didn't get a chance at all this past season
Old 05-22-2012, 09:06 AM
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So I have a 1986 sr5 2wd I was goin to restore 4 my wife. I was having problems w/ my injectors 1 was hung open from the gunk the gas had turned into after setting for 4 years(P.O) I had got some turbo injectors off an 87 everyone was sayin the turbo pushed 295cc & stock was 190cc id dump too much fuel. My dad is ASE certified but mostly works on chevys & he says a ecu is what determines how long the spray lasts how many ccs ect. No I follow what homey 15 is sayin about the resistor on the passenger fender. I'm working on a 86 it has it so my turbo injectors will fit?? I'm not goin to fix the 86anymore because I traded some parts 4 a 1987 4x4 4runner 4 my wife. I have to replace the motor while it apart should I throw those turbo injectors in 4 possible future mods? Ecu will fun then?? I have that resistor on 4runner. Its the 86 injecton system? Input?
Old 05-22-2012, 09:08 AM
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Will the ecu RUN them ... use that resistor?


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