I recently had issues with my 14 bolt breaking rear shafts and was over it. Decided the obvious decision was to go bigger and better. Tracked down a SRW Dana 80 out of a manual 95 dodge ram 2500 with almost identical in WMC as my front gm kingpin 60 plus correct lug pattern so no need for spacers. Seems the interweb has controversial and misleading info on the Dana 80s and the biggest issue I was having was properly identifying one without a BOM or vin number. The SRW 80 do use Dana 70 outers and do neck down on the outboard edges of the tube but the center cast section remains the same internals as the 80. This isn’t a full write up on Dana 80s but figured I’d cover some of the basics if you plan on swapping into a Toyota. Everything else is strait forward until you get to the driveline part. In my wheeler I carry a spare drive shaft that will fit either front or rear (front has 60 to toyota yoke) and that’s where my problem started. NO ONE makes an adapter or a yoke to convert it to Toyota flange. The biggest issue is the fact Dana 80 pinion nuts are so damn big that just the nut takes up all the real estate of a Toyota flange. So I purchased a yukon Dana 80 companion flange and designed own adapter. I had a buddy with access to a laser cutter
burn it out for precision but realistically you can use a plasma table. I know cutting one solid piece and machine a grove for the hub centering on the companion flange is the strongest but for minimal cost I was able to achieve the same results by having the bottom piece cut from 3/16” and the top cut from 1/2”. The bottom 3/16 plate hub centers to the companion and the upper 1/2 plate adapts to a Toyota hub center with a Toyota pattern (60mmx60mm square). There is through holes on both which secures it to the companion flange, and I tapped the Toyota pattern holes to m10x1.5. It’s a rather simple design but it works, and figured maybe someone could use it if they were in the same situation as me. I tig welded the two plates together but realistically the 4 retaining bolts and hub centering ring is enough if you don’t have access to a welder. You can take the provided .dxf file to a machine shop and have them burn it out. I also included pictures of the raw design with dimensions in case when uploading the file dimensions are altered depending on the software they use.