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95 4runner Sas F+R axle relocation questions

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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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95 4runner Sas F+R axle relocation questions

Hey guys, I just bought a 4 inch front TG SAS and 5 inch rear for my 4runner. I have two questions regarding improving my wheel base and tire clearance.


For the front, I know the sas kit moves the axle roughly 1.5" forward. I have a 85 front axle, with the one side having the holes to make relocation possible, if I duplicate the holes on the other side of the axle (1 3/8 I've read) and move it forward in this manner will my steering be compromised? Will the tie rod and drag hit?

If they come close, how close is to close?

If they do hit, is a flat pitman arm a decent move? If so, what year land cruiser should I find? I have a BJ60 arm in the back yard but I'm unclear of splines.




For the rear, I'm doing a leaf spring conversion and I have two questions. I'd like to weld the hangers on a little further back, but I'm not sure how much slip my driveshaft has.

How much could I get away with without lengthening my rear shaft? Is a pickup/cruiser shaft a better move? Or some kind of combo?

Also unsure of how far to space my rear leaf hangers. Is there a eye to eye measurement somewhere? I haven't found any info on the TG instructions on their website.

I'm trying to get some wheelbase without relocating the steering box and doing driveshaft work.

Thanks for any help guys!
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 08:34 AM
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i am also curious about this as i am doing the same thing. 4" tg sas kit. i found some interesting things on pirate bay but nothing solid and it looks like a royal pain to move the steering box
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 09:07 AM
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In order to get wheel base, you will have to move the steering box and lengthen drive shafts. Without doing that, your looking at a rear stretch of 1" maybe 2" max, and just as far as the kit allows for the front.

Moving the box isnt hard, just time consuming. Just drill/torch and re weld the new plate on. You shouldnt have to cut through the core support, just have it butt right up against it. I dont think (but dont quote me on this) you dont need to move the box for the sas kit alone, but you will if you want to move it farther than that.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 12:35 PM
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From: vancouver, british columbia
I've moved my box about 1.5" and its still not far enough. i has to notch the front body mount and don't wanna take any more. also gonna have to notch the rad support when the body goes on i presume but its still not far enough. what sort of pitman arms are available that would be a little shorter?
I haven't finished welding the plates on just tacked so i guess i could move it more, good thing the sas kit came with a little extra support for the mount
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 02:28 PM
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On your rear leaf conversion don't go back too far or your wheels won't be centered in the wheel well. It looks odd when it is off.
search for lysmachia's 4Runner build thread. She called her truck 'tippy'
Molly and Troy did a great job on her build
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 07:33 PM
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Thanks for the input everyone.

So far the plan is to get the axle hung under there and bolt the steering up to see where everything is. I'll end up moving the steering box I'm sure, but only if my 37/13.5s rub on the fire wall. When they do, I'll be redriling the spring perches and gaining my 1 3/8". If they still rub I will start hacking.

If they do rub without moving my box, should I wait until it's moved to mount my shock hoops so they're centered over my axle?

I have read several threads and the TG instructions (Yeah they rock) and it seems some people get away without moving it. Like I said all I'm trying to do is clear the tires. Front hanger 3/4" forward!

As for the rear, I know what you're saying about having the tires centred in the wheel well Dropzone. I plan to cut the rear of my rear wheel well and then recenter the axle by moving it back. That way they won't be super crammed when stuffed.
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