midiwall

Ditto. I did it as well and dunno if there was much of a real difference.

One other thing to add to Christian's list is to be sure that you have an "O" shaped TB gasket, not a "D" shaped one. S/C users see a drop of about 1.5 PSI if they're running a D gasket, the N/A folks are apt to see a difference as well.


Search around for the thread where Alan (HaveBlue) modified his stock MAF to open it up...

found it: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...751#post987751

midiwall

Yes, we know about them here. John is the recommended shop to do VB work for our trannys.

CJM

And how does one cross water and filter your air, see # 2 btw

Today I took apart most of the intake box. Here is some good advice.

1. Do not discconect the MAF sensor unit from the actual intake pipe (still connected electrically) and crank her over. it ran for a second them died.

2. Putting it back on the intake tube with the top of the airbox removed is also not a good idea. It ran fine then I revved the throttle a bit and it sounded like I dying animal screaming. I dont think it did any damage but this is why you cant runit without some kind of filter and box or something.

After taking off the MAF I decided to check out the airbox a bit. Its ribbed which should make a deckplate a bit harder to do but so long as I seal it well I think it can work.

Upon further looking at the intake box and elbow: On my T the elbow goes of into the fender about 4-6" and isnt to sharply bent. Probably a bit restrictive but I wouldnt want to mess with it to much. The airbox itself has an inlet for the elbow and inside it the line is rather restrictive looking. It looks like someone took a pipe and cut a V in the top of it and cut that part out. I think removing some of this pipe may be worthwhile as it will incrase the airflow into the box itself as the air doesnt have to travel as far.

I think I will go buy a junkkyard box, I dont want to ruin mine and be sunk...

As for the ISR mod, I chose like I stated above to simply replace the IS box, which is mounted directly into the intake tube. I made a fitting using a pvc pipe endcap (the screw in type) w/flange on top for a wrench. I used MIP's from the depot and simply drilled one on top of the endcap flange and one on the side (mimicking the IS box). I just made the hole the right size and they screwed right in-tight! Then of course since our intakes have a 1" diamater the 2" one I bought (the flange on the 1" was to small imho and the brass fititngs wouldnt go allt he way onc ause they hit eachother). Using some creative coping saw work and a sander I cut and sanded a perfect fitting cap.

midiwall

Use a Dremel, hot knife, jigsaw...


"increasing the air flow" doesn't come from the length of the tube. Once the tube is loaded with air, there's no additional flow. It's "FIFO", First In, First Out.

As for removing it - be careful if you play in water. The advantage of the deckplate, the reason that we use a "deckplate" is that you can seal up the hole when you think you're gonna be dunking the nose in water. If you pull out the elbow, you can't do that. Well, you can't do it as easily.

bamachem

if you cross water, then you pop your hood and close your airbox top.

the filter (i have an amsoil foam filter that fits tight) is still there and works fine when either open or closed.

CJM

No not exactly, I was saying I was going to leave the elbow in. Inside the intake box there is a tube that goes about 4" like I described with that V in it. Thats what i think I may remove.

If the elbow goes out into the fender, whats to stop water from coming in through it? There isnt anything inline with it..just the elbow into the box...

CJM

It may be different on other vehicles, but if you were to remvoe the top of the airbox you MAF sensor is completely open, I just did this and it did not sound like it was a smart idea upon cranking it over. I think the 4R has a different kind of location for the MAF therefore it may work.

T100NewMexico

CJM, if your going to install a deckplate mod I wouldnt even worry about removing that inner portion of the tube. I would just leave it intact. It gives enough air now to run your truck, the addition of the deckplate is just gravy.

As for water intrusion your deck plate mod would actualy be higher than the stock elbow port into the fender. The only thing preventing water intrusion in the stock version (that I can see) is the plastic fender skirting.

I would guess Toyota vented to this area to capture colder intake air.

Just to clarify to all, the older T100 intakes are not the same as the runners/taco's theres no poping the access door open.

rimpainter.com

Dude, good call. I totally forgot about that. Add that to the intake mod list!

CJM

Good advice T100NewMexico. I dont know exactly how the elbow works, as you and I see it the only thing holding water back is the guard between the fender and on my T I can bet it leaks, 10 years time is enough to make it loose.

I had some fun trying to put the box back in after I took it out, I dont know exactly what the last owner did or had done but the bolts were stripped about 3/8 off the bottom and the holes are stripped too. Gonna retap it friday when I get some time to a tap.

DaddyJoe

CJM

I just did the deckplate mod on my 96 T and I also have the "ribbed" box. If you notice, the box tapers from the fender side. It's small on the fender side and gets bigger towards the engine side. You can probably make the deckplate fit on the front of the box, but I played it safe and placed it on the side. I know there are mixed reviews about the plate facing the engine due to the heat, but I have had no problems with mine. I think that the heat would only affect it while sitting still. It took a little time getting the placement right, but you can make it fit fine. The only thing I didn't like is that the plate flange hangs down a little from the bottom of the box (maybe 1/2" to 3/4"). And also, its a very tight fit, so instead of using some screen and a hose clamp, I glued some black bug screen to the rim on the inside of the plate to keep the bigger debris from going in. Anyhow, it might take a little longer than the guys with the other intake box, but it can be done. I'll try to post some pics of it if I get some time this week.

CJM

Sounds good daddyjoe, pics would really help out.

Right now I am in the midst of doing the deckplate and trying to find the cheapest place to order bed rails from.

T100NewMexico

Great info all, very interested in taking a look at the D shaped gasket. Can you see it with the intake disconnected and the throttle plate propped open?

Also after much pondering I think the MAF sensor is the next weakest link. (I horked a link to haveblue's photo) Just look at the pre mod MAFS on the left, its just like mine and clogs half the intake


However, I don't think I’m ready to go at it with a sawzall yet. Here's my concern; the cut down would not only open up the air way (good) but likely change tuned air pressure/flow over the electrodes thus changing their output (Bad). Change the output randomly and I would guess you run the risk of really whacking out your air fuel mixture. Haveblue said he had to adjust his fuel flow with an after market device S-AFC. I don't know what the answer is but I would rather not drop the advantages of a closed loop airflow/oxygen content monitored system to go back to smelling my exhaust and cranking the electronic equivalent of fuel air mixture screws.

If I come across sounding snotty I apologize, I don't mean it that way. And if max power is your only goal and your willing to tweek and monitor. This is pretty cool.

Would be awesome if someone made and aftermarket like this one, pre tuned to what the AFC expects.

T100NewMexico

96 Runner, I think I saw that you are using a supra MAFS, if so how did that change your fuel economy.

Thanks in advance

CJM

I dont know if we can use the same MAF, I really dont like messing with them tbh. I did with one in my 93 camry..it costs 250 dollars iirc or more! All I did was damage a wire in it by accident too, boom no start. I would be inclined to buy a junkyard MAF if it ws cheap and hack it up for the heck of it and see.

Thus far my plan is to see how much they want for an airbox at the yard and if its under 40 bucks I am sold. This way if I mess up cutting it (oh that does happen) or decide to do something else I am safe and can swap back. That and my box is newer as the owner had it replaced when they put in a new engine..no way it has 184k on it...impossible its to clean..

T100NewMexico

Just go K&N, problems sloved...you know you want to LOL
Then you can go find a better filter...like I have to.

CJM

Oh yea, sure so i can spend tons of money on a system that if I cross water will kill it :cry: I dont trust open filter elements if I may go into water, never have.

I may just end up modifyin the box and skipping the year, but hey it cant hurt..plus then I can find out how much a MAF is for the truck and hack that one up if its under 75 bucks..

I already noticed my truck was much peppier after I did the ISR mod. Now I gotta do the deckplate, lift it 15" on some 44" tires, sfa, and add a new set of bumpers, make a new bed and then add 3 batteries to power the 15 150w lights..

midiwall

I have one... increasing power requires more fuel, your economy will go down.

If you stay off the pedal you'll find that throttle response is smoother - there's a "bubble" around 2500-3500 rpm, and with the Supra MAF it's gone. The ISR helps that a bit as well.

CJM

It sounds doable, but I also wonder if its valid for these trucks. Our intake system is nowhere near as complicated as the runners of the same era are. Infact I took a look into the pipe when I took the MAF-nothing is obstructing it at all.

Like I said if the MAF is $75 and under I may chop one up and see how it goes.

Greg_Canada

!!! Why would you chop up a MAF? I'm pretty sure it will not work correctly after you mess with it.
And when you do, do no use a SAFC, it adds fuel based on rpm (and boost if you have it) not throttle position/load... do yourself a favour and get a MAF sensor calibrator from URD...