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Trailer Wiring Harness Problems

Old May 28, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #1  
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From: New Mexico
Trailer Wiring Harness Problems

You can skip to the point at the *** below. Read on for the back-story.

I don't usually tow with my rig, just once every few years or so, but last time I did I had an unpleasant surprise. A few blocks from the U-haul rental place and a few minutes after they closed, my turn signals, hazard lights, and horn went out. I pulled into an auto parts store for some fresh fuses and replaced the blown one. The new one burned out a few minutes later, unsurprisingly.

It was late December, the weather was nasty, and I had a vanishingly small window of time use the trailer so I dropped it off in front of the rental yard and started waiting for Spring. My fuses kept blowing until I cut out the 3-2 converter for the trailer wiring harness, so I figure there was a short in the converter.

Fast forward to present. I'm going to try the move again this weekend. I replaced the 3-2 converter today and discovered a bit of a mess while I was at it. Don't ask me why I hadn't noticed, fixed this years ago.

The original trailer wiring harness was installed years ago by Spillar Custom Hitches in Austin, TX. It seems they spliced into the trucks wiring harness with quick-splice clips just in front of the back bumper on the driver's side (and one on the passenger side for the rt. turn signal). From the nicks in the wires' insulation near the quick-splice clips, it looks like they got the splices right on the second or third try.

I'm surprised I haven't snagged the whole mess on a low branch or some other
grabby on a trail.

*** The Point ***

Problem: The wires leading to my tail lights are exposed (out of the bundle sheath) where the quick-splice clips T in the trailer harness and the insulation on the truck's harness is nicked in several places.

Solution (short-term): I just spliced in a new 3-2 converter for the trailer using the existing quick-splice clips. It'll do for now.

Solution (long-term): I figure I should move the splices and the 3-2 converter to a more protected location (like behind a tail light). The I'll want to repair the insulation on the truck's harness where the quick-splice clips were. Any thoughts on how I should do that? Heat-shrink tape? Silicone caulk? Both?
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Old May 29, 2010 | 03:25 AM
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never use the quick splicer...solder and heat shrink
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Old May 29, 2010 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ocdropzone
never use the quick splicer...solder and heat shrink
I know. I never would've used them, but the damage was already done. Good reminder why I usually do my own work. It takes me at least twice as long, but I'll get it done right in the end.
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Old May 29, 2010 | 07:57 AM
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You need to cut and replace where those splices were used .The coating has been cut which lets in water that starts corrosion.
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Old May 29, 2010 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by swampfox
You need to cut and replace where those splices were used .The coating has been cut which lets in water that starts corrosion.
Okay, here's what I'm thinking. Solder in a 6" length of new wire (3" on each side of the nick) and cover with heat shrink tubing. I could then put a little silicone caulk at the ends of each length of heat shrink tubing (post-shrink) to provide an extra water barrier. Then tuck it all back into the bundle sheath and call it good.

Is there a better way?

Last edited by Greenman; May 29, 2010 at 07:50 PM.
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Old May 29, 2010 | 10:07 PM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

there might be if you look there might be a plug that this harness plugs into.

Without looking it is hard to tell as I don`t remember.

What i did on my 4Runner was use the plugs that the tail light plugs into and made my own adapter then only had to bring in the wire for the right turn signal. that way all the connections are behind the tail light.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 04:18 AM
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There are splice-free trailer harnesses that plug into the OEM tail light plugs. I'll probably get one, but I still need to fix the truck's harness where that shop nicked it up.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Greenman
I could then put a little silicone caulk at the ends of each length of heat shrink tubing (post-shrink) to provide an extra water barrier. Then tuck it all back into the bundle sheath and call it good.

Is there a better way?
Just use the new adheasive heat shrink tubing. It has an aheasive sealant inside and when it shrinks it glues and creates a water tight seal. It's a little more expensive but the stuff is great.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by James Dean
Just use the new adheasive heat shrink tubing. It has an aheasive sealant inside and when it shrinks it glues and creates a water tight seal. It's a little more expensive but the stuff is great.
That sounds like exactly what I need! Is it a standard auto store item?
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