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Been up and down in the forums. Went thru all the FSM and threads I could find. Dealing with code 52.
Recently did a head gasket job on my 94 T100 3.0, 5spd, 4x4, getting code 52. Knock sensor wire is new(OEM), knock sensor is new (aftermarket), new pigtail on the wire harness, everything checks out for testing all the lines. So what I’m down to is the fact that I didn’t use an OEM Toyota knock sensor. The wire harness also got a nice new tape job with vinyl and cloth tape while I was in there.
I see plenty of people talking about the OEM KS fixing the issue finally, but what I’m wondering is how many people do this and it *doesn’t* take care of code 52?
Gonna drop money on the OEM sensor soon and figure that’s a good time to finally replace vacuum and coolant lines. I was already in more than I wanted to be money-wise on the HG job and, although crusty, all the vac and coolant lines still held, so that’s why I didn’t do those originally. So at least I’m not only going in for a knock sensor this time around.
Would love to hear from people who finally went with an OEM knock sensor if this fixed it or not? Generally when something works, most people forget about it and likely don’t follow up on a message board to mention that it’s still good a month, a year, 5 years later. So just trying to compile a consensus for the next person like me who looks.
My t100 attached for tax.
Thanks y’all!
Puck
Last edited by The Emerald T100; May 11, 2022 at 10:31 AM.
The 99 4Runner we bought last spring had that (KS code, not the same code). I took it to my mechanic, and he replaced them (the 2 KS) with after market sensors. New OEM pigtails, too. They still tripped the code, until he replaced them with OEM sensors. At his expense. If his mechs touch it, they fix it.
Anywho, yeah, something about the AM KS's the ECU just didn't like. Could I use more initials?? As soon as he went OEM from the dealership, problem solved.
Exactly the kinda stuff I want to hear. Based on what I’ve researched this is something that comes up over and over again, use OEM knock sensors. And you just don’t always see a lot of people chiming in that it worked. I think maybe that’s the fix, and people are so happy it works, they don’t end up back in the forums cause they are out driving with no CEL. Haha
I did have it, but the original knock sensor fell apart when I took it out. Like I went to unclip it and the whole inside of the knock sensor just came out with the clip. I also had some exposed wire on the wire harness right by the clip. So it seemed, at the time, pretty obvious why I was getting the code. I wish that I would have tested the wiring prior to replacing everything. But on something that seemed so obvious, that was the last thing on my mind. And really for the first 30-40 miles after the rebuild, I don't think it came on at all. But now I'm getting it almost every time I drive when I'm leaving my neighborhood. Once it's up to temp, I can usually shut it off at a stop light and restart it and it stays off and everything seems to run just fine.
Unfortunately I'm a little too OCD, even tho it'll run fine without throwing the light once it's up to temp, I just don't want it throwing the code at all. That CEL just irks me to no end.