Hey y'all, I have been trying everything I can think of to fix my cab light. In the process I found this female connector without a mate. It is located right next to the interior fuse box. Looks like it goes up and out of the cab with a bunch of other wires. I can't find a mate to it though. Pretty sure it has nothing to do with the cab light. As far as that goes, I have reconnected my buzzer and traced the wires from the light assembly down to the fuse box. All connections look good, but I had trouble keeping up with the wires after the connection behind the fuse box. With that being said, I am gonna clean up the light assembly and put a new bulb and see if I have gotten anywhere. Anyways, about the female connector....anybody got any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
Brian

 

It might be a little hard I know lots of female connectors some are green

Some Black 1 pin 2 pin 14 pin

color of wires ??

What else is not working ??

 

It is blue with 3 prongs and a place for 3 prongs from the male. It has one green wire, one orange wire with black bands, and one orange wire with black stripes. Maybe the orange is faded red?....I don't know, but they look orange.

Thanks man.

On a side note.....Got my cab light fixed. Just blew some dust off the connectors down by the fuse box, hooked my buzzer box up, cleaned up the connectors in the assembly, added some bulb grease and an LED light. For some reason my fuel gauge is working now too. Coincidence? Should have looked harder at it a long time ago.

 

If you could post a picture I might could identify it. Without the buzzer box hooked up, the drivers door wont operate the light. Reason people disconnect the buzzer and not knowing the buzzer controls drivers door light circuit. You can disable the buzzer by opening the box and bending the tab back to stop the buzzer. I have it listed on the first page of my 88 build below if you want to disable the buzzer. You can also adjust the tab to reduce the noise if you don't want it completely disabled.

 

For some reason, I thought I had already posted a pic. I took one, but now I can't find it. I will get my wife to do it when she gets up later. I'm probably the only guy that doesn't have a cell phone and doesn't know how to use one lol. I don't know how I figured the buzzer out....luck I guess. I was digging around looking for loose connections, found it and plugged it in. Then when I tried to unhook it my light went out. I will check out your build...I don't want to disable it but would like to reduce the noise it makes. Thanks Terry for helping me out the last few days. I will get that pic up probably before lunch.

 

Here's a pic...don't know why it is so big.

 

I am thinking that is a plug for an 89-95 truck and I am not as familiar with those plugs. It does not look like the Clutch Safety Switch or the Dome Light to me. I am almost positive the dome light is a 4 in plug.

On some of these trucks, there will be plugs unused as they are prewired for some options your truck may not have.

 

What year and trim level of truck?
I wonder if it used to have power mirrors/door locks and for what ever reason was coverTed to manual. ..

 

Seen you mention the fuel gauge not working. If it is not a wiring issue, it could be the float assembly. They do wear out or get gunked up. Sometimes giving them a gentle cleaning with rust dissolver will get them working. I got to trouble shoot mine today or tomorrow as well and can post my find if all goes well.

Here is an example that I have seen a few times.
The float was frozen solid. I put the rust dissolver on it and had it working in 2 minutes. I am really starting to like this brand over PB Blaster. Here it is frozen up with rust. Fuel filter is hard as a rock also.

 

Drop Zone- 88 and base trim....pretty sure it never had power anything. Kinda leaning to what Terry said.

Terry- I dropped my tank and cleaned my float 2 years ago, but all I've ever gotten out of it what full or empty (mostly showed empty except immediately following fill up) It just happened to be working yesterday, don't think it still is. I really don't feel like dropping but would like to know more about how yours go.

 

The wire that is coiled inside which is basically a variable resistor is fine as a human hair. The wiper can wear thru the wire eventually as well.

Here is an example and what is inside the assembly and a worn out resisitor.