94 4runner only has 3 volts coming into ignition switch.
#1
94 4runner only has 3 volts coming into ignition switch.
Hello,
I have a 94 4runner with the 3.0. I am currently having a problem where nothing on my vehicle works except for head lights, hazards, and key alarm. I have replaced battery, main fuses, and fusible link coming off the positive terminal to fuse box. I have also cleaned all major grounds and replaced ignition switch. I used a multi-meter to check everything and my battery is supplying 12.4 volts to and from fusebox, but there is only 3.1 volts on the 12 volt constant coming into my ignition switch. I also have no way of shifting into neutral without finding some physical release for the gear selector. Thanks for reading and I would appreciate any thoughts or help.
I have a 94 4runner with the 3.0. I am currently having a problem where nothing on my vehicle works except for head lights, hazards, and key alarm. I have replaced battery, main fuses, and fusible link coming off the positive terminal to fuse box. I have also cleaned all major grounds and replaced ignition switch. I used a multi-meter to check everything and my battery is supplying 12.4 volts to and from fusebox, but there is only 3.1 volts on the 12 volt constant coming into my ignition switch. I also have no way of shifting into neutral without finding some physical release for the gear selector. Thanks for reading and I would appreciate any thoughts or help.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Welcome To Yota Tech!
Some back ground ??
Has this been a ongoing problem or has it just started.
There is nothing but a connector between the fuse block and ignition switch
Where are you getting your ground when reading the voltage at the switch..
You have checked battery voltage to all the grounds to make sure they are indeed electrically good and just don`t appear to be good??
Something happen to the alarm causing the vehicle to be in this state??
Were any of the things you replaced in fact not working ??
Wrong Ignition Switch??
Knowing this might get closer to finding out what is wrong.
Some back ground ??
Has this been a ongoing problem or has it just started.
There is nothing but a connector between the fuse block and ignition switch
Where are you getting your ground when reading the voltage at the switch..
You have checked battery voltage to all the grounds to make sure they are indeed electrically good and just don`t appear to be good??
Something happen to the alarm causing the vehicle to be in this state??

Were any of the things you replaced in fact not working ??
Wrong Ignition Switch??
Knowing this might get closer to finding out what is wrong.
#3
Thanks for responding!
The truck was running fine about 3 weeks ago and then it would not start at all. After replacing the battery it did start up once, but died right after pressing the break.
-It has never acted like this before.
-I had the meter's negative wire hooked to the door hinge and was using the positive to check voltages.
-I have checked grounds for voltage also.
-I am not sure what you mean by the alarm?
-When checking the ignition switch I found that the previous owner had soldered a jumper wire between the 12 volt constant and one of the other terminals on the switch, but it was broken so I replaced the entire switch.
Thanks again for the help! I am a young guy in college and my mechanical knowledge is strong, but not amazing.
The truck was running fine about 3 weeks ago and then it would not start at all. After replacing the battery it did start up once, but died right after pressing the break.
-It has never acted like this before.
-I had the meter's negative wire hooked to the door hinge and was using the positive to check voltages.
-I have checked grounds for voltage also.
-I am not sure what you mean by the alarm?
-When checking the ignition switch I found that the previous owner had soldered a jumper wire between the 12 volt constant and one of the other terminals on the switch, but it was broken so I replaced the entire switch.
Thanks again for the help! I am a young guy in college and my mechanical knowledge is strong, but not amazing.
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
You mean the key buzzer that goes off when the key is in the ignition and door is opened
Not an Alarm for when someone breaks in??
Since you did not replace the jumper wire that could be your problem.
At least till you figure out just why it was there.
I want to know how your getting 3 VDC and where it is coming from.
That circuit is seeing a huge Voltage drop.
I wonder just what else is cobbled together to patch problems
Pull the plastic trim off and use the ground on the left door post much better then a door hinge.
What caused the battery to need replaced and are you keeping it charged??
Not an Alarm for when someone breaks in??
Since you did not replace the jumper wire that could be your problem.
At least till you figure out just why it was there.
I want to know how your getting 3 VDC and where it is coming from.
That circuit is seeing a huge Voltage drop.
I wonder just what else is cobbled together to patch problems
Pull the plastic trim off and use the ground on the left door post much better then a door hinge.
What caused the battery to need replaced and are you keeping it charged??
#5
Yes I meant the key buzzer.
-The battery was replaced because the old one tested bad.
-I re-soldered the wire on the back of the older igniton swich and tried that also, but still nothing. It was a jumper wire between the 12v constant and the ignition wire.
-I measured the 3 volts from the solid white and also from the white with red stripe wire that connect to the ignition harness. The wiring diagram said that one of these should be the 12 volt constant. I also tested the other terminals of the ignition switch as I turned the key and they functioned like they are suppose to, but each one was delivering only 1 volt.
-I have checked most of the wiring around the harness and it looks good.
-The battery was replaced because the old one tested bad.
-I re-soldered the wire on the back of the older igniton swich and tried that also, but still nothing. It was a jumper wire between the 12v constant and the ignition wire.
-I measured the 3 volts from the solid white and also from the white with red stripe wire that connect to the ignition harness. The wiring diagram said that one of these should be the 12 volt constant. I also tested the other terminals of the ignition switch as I turned the key and they functioned like they are suppose to, but each one was delivering only 1 volt.
-I have checked most of the wiring around the harness and it looks good.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
You have a bad connection someplace between the battery to the ignition switch. If you had battery voltage to the fuse block the white wire coming off the 40amp AM1 fusible link .
Then it also could be a bad ground using the door hinge !! you did clean all the paint down to bare metal??
If this circuit is open you should get 0 volts.
The fact your getting 3VDC means you have a major voltage drop.
Since this circuit grounds on the left Door post along with other circuits I can only suggest you use that ground for your testing.
There very well could be other problems you just have not seen helping this issue be a major problem.
Good luck
Then it also could be a bad ground using the door hinge !! you did clean all the paint down to bare metal??
If this circuit is open you should get 0 volts.
The fact your getting 3VDC means you have a major voltage drop.
Since this circuit grounds on the left Door post along with other circuits I can only suggest you use that ground for your testing.
There very well could be other problems you just have not seen helping this issue be a major problem.

Good luck
#7
I would get a long test lead from the battery and check your voltage at the switch. This should give you an indication if it is a power or ground issue.
Last edited by Y8rodo; Feb 9, 2015 at 09:30 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
Jul 6, 2015 01:20 PM



