What is it that you just can't figure out with your rig? or can't fix
12-28-2006, 11:27 AM
#41
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i hit my bushings and shackles with silicone spray about every week...it works for a day or so but in the case of last time, it made it worse. the most sound is coming from where my shackles attach to the frame where its just metal washers and bolts
EDIT: i deally i would get new bushings since im sure mine are crap but i dont have time for a job that big yet. i would also put the anti friction pads between the leafs but as far as where they attach to the frame, im out of ideas to reduce the metal on metal rubbing
EDIT: i deally i would get new bushings since im sure mine are crap but i dont have time for a job that big yet. i would also put the anti friction pads between the leafs but as far as where they attach to the frame, im out of ideas to reduce the metal on metal rubbing
Last edited by drguitarum2005; 12-28-2006 at 11:31 AM.
12-28-2006, 11:43 AM
#43
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i hit my bushings and shackles with silicone spray about every week...it works for a day or so but in the case of last time, it made it worse. the most sound is coming from where my shackles attach to the frame where its just metal washers and bolts
EDIT: i deally i would get new bushings since im sure mine are crap but i dont have time for a job that big yet. i would also put the anti friction pads between the leafs but as far as where they attach to the frame, im out of ideas to reduce the metal on metal rubbing
EDIT: i deally i would get new bushings since im sure mine are crap but i dont have time for a job that big yet. i would also put the anti friction pads between the leafs but as far as where they attach to the frame, im out of ideas to reduce the metal on metal rubbing
12-28-2006, 12:35 PM
#46
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i hit my bushings and shackles with silicone spray about every week...it works for a day or so but in the case of last time, it made it worse. the most sound is coming from where my shackles attach to the frame where its just metal washers and bolts
EDIT: i deally i would get new bushings since im sure mine are crap but i dont have time for a job that big yet. i would also put the anti friction pads between the leafs but as far as where they attach to the frame, im out of ideas to reduce the metal on metal rubbing
EDIT: i deally i would get new bushings since im sure mine are crap but i dont have time for a job that big yet. i would also put the anti friction pads between the leafs but as far as where they attach to the frame, im out of ideas to reduce the metal on metal rubbing
12-28-2006, 01:40 PM
#47
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OK I have a really big problem. All my eletc. Locks work great except for the frount passanger door. It will not lock at the same time with the others, and will not open with the others.. The only way it works is for me to push it up and down with my hand. When I press the button, it trys to go down or up, but will not. Any Idears?
12-28-2006, 04:49 PM
#49
I may not have a runner or truck of this vintage, but I couldnt help but add that my brakes just dont work right. You hit the brakes hard and it pulls and locks on the passenger front of my T100. I finally gave up with my mechanic, yota hadnt a clue and wanted to replace the rotors and I am gonna work on it myself this weekend.
12-28-2006, 05:01 PM
#51
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sweet thread. i have heard that you can cut up strips of plastic and insert them between the leafs to cut out the squeaking?
i pulled all that plastic junk out of the back of my 4runner, it's trash, loud trash. i have a lot more cargo space without it. i really plan on eventually(if i ever get all the real bugs worked out) fabing my own custom panels for the cargo area.
my big problem right know is my auto tranny. i have the no downshift problem and have narrowed the problem down to either a short or open in my IDL circuit between the tps, ect, and ecu. bad voltage signals. ?????
i pulled all that plastic junk out of the back of my 4runner, it's trash, loud trash. i have a lot more cargo space without it. i really plan on eventually(if i ever get all the real bugs worked out) fabing my own custom panels for the cargo area.
my big problem right know is my auto tranny. i have the no downshift problem and have narrowed the problem down to either a short or open in my IDL circuit between the tps, ect, and ecu. bad voltage signals. ?????
12-28-2006, 08:18 PM
#53
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Any thoughts; hard problem
I've brought my truck to the dealership and had a Toyota tech look at it on two differnet occassions.
'95 p/u w/22re
The problem is that sometimes it doesn't start, cranks fine, has good compression, runs fine once it's started, never stalls, but doesn't always start right away
The symptoms are similar to a bad fuel pump check valve, but the problem occurs all the time and is unrelated to when the car has sat and the line could have lost pressure. The fuel pump is also on when the key is in "on", piggy backed throught he diag box, I've tried to let the pump run for a couple seconds before cranking but it didn't make a difference.
The problem happened after the head was rebuilt
My guess is that it's electronic, the dealership told me it was the Mass Air Flow, I replaced it with a used unit and there was no change at all, the new MAF is still in the truck.
The truck has never let me down but on cold days I get a little nervous that i may not get to work, and half the time it starts up ont he first or second crank
It's been this way for a couple years now, I've gotten used to it but can't really sell the truck the way it is.
Any suggestions? I have a new feul pump with check valve to install but I don't think it's going to change anything, my gut feeling it that the problem is under the hood
'95 p/u w/22re
The problem is that sometimes it doesn't start, cranks fine, has good compression, runs fine once it's started, never stalls, but doesn't always start right away
The symptoms are similar to a bad fuel pump check valve, but the problem occurs all the time and is unrelated to when the car has sat and the line could have lost pressure. The fuel pump is also on when the key is in "on", piggy backed throught he diag box, I've tried to let the pump run for a couple seconds before cranking but it didn't make a difference.
The problem happened after the head was rebuilt
My guess is that it's electronic, the dealership told me it was the Mass Air Flow, I replaced it with a used unit and there was no change at all, the new MAF is still in the truck.
The truck has never let me down but on cold days I get a little nervous that i may not get to work, and half the time it starts up ont he first or second crank
It's been this way for a couple years now, I've gotten used to it but can't really sell the truck the way it is.
Any suggestions? I have a new feul pump with check valve to install but I don't think it's going to change anything, my gut feeling it that the problem is under the hood
12-28-2006, 08:35 PM
#55
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Since day one of owning my 4Runner I have always noticed that it sounds like my engine gurgles a little...
Stepdads dosen't do that...
Thought it might have been to much fuel or not enough air...
Put a K&N in...
That stopped it for about a month...
Then it came back...
Did the deck plate...
Went away for a month...
Then it came back...
Did the ISR mod...
Went away for a month...
Back again but only notice it when the window is open and I am next to a highway divider....
My olds started doing that in it's last couple of months...
It runs fine, i just feel like i might be flooding a piston or two sometimes at lower idles or lower rpms when driving...
Stepdads dosen't do that...
Thought it might have been to much fuel or not enough air...
Put a K&N in...
That stopped it for about a month...
Then it came back...
Did the deck plate...
Went away for a month...
Then it came back...
Did the ISR mod...
Went away for a month...
Back again but only notice it when the window is open and I am next to a highway divider....
My olds started doing that in it's last couple of months...
It runs fine, i just feel like i might be flooding a piston or two sometimes at lower idles or lower rpms when driving...
12-28-2006, 09:39 PM
#56
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my rear window will not come down unless I move it down with the key from the outside first if I leave it up with a 1 inch gap I can open and close it from the inside. but if I close it all the way I have to get out and lower it again for it to work.
12-29-2006, 04:39 AM
#58
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I have to agree with this. I love my 3.0 but seems to use alot of gass. I'm wondering if it is the 31" tires I'm running.
12-29-2006, 07:24 AM
#60
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