ur funny.

 

Now that you are really involved. I'm thinking that the plug fouling you've described is more indicative of a pissing injector.

When the spray patern turns into a steady stream it will squirt directly onto the spark plug and cause it to foul on just that side.

Do you have a picture of the fouled plug?

 

Just replace the valve stems. It's only gonna be like $20 at the MOST to do all 4 of them. Then you'll have no leaks anymore, at least not from the valve stems.

 

sorry target nut you are wrong. It's oil not gas fouling my plug, i have had plenty of pics, and they are still up under 4x #3 plug has fouled. It's an oil leak. period, I have blue smoke at times, and it's not constant thanks for ur concern ne who.

 

I'm not saying your wrong, It's just that without seeing the plug I can't tell one way or the other. Since it had not been mentioned (or if it has then I missed it) I thought I'd add that input.

 

thanks anyways. well, looks like no one is gonna help me brainstorm, but i don't think i need the help. posting the pics and looking at them later made me realize. IF pic #3's got the rocker arm almost clear of the valve spring, why cant't i remove the spring that is on the rocker assembly keeping the arm from moving an inch or more further away from the valve spring? Maybe it's just enough to clear the valve spring. Toyota can't be that stupid. I refuse to believe that the engineers of the 22re did not have a back door to replacing the seals w/out removing the head. no way. ill give it a shot here tonight, and will post back.

 

how are you planning on getting the spring out? pulling the snap ring on the end and sliding the camshaft out?

 

Done!
The Idle is smoother than silk, I am so used to watching my antennae wave from left to right at idle, it's wierd not having the stick vibrate as well as hear a constant exhaust tone out the tail pipe. Hopefully these changes are not short lived. I had the inkling that it's the exhaust stem seal so i replaced that 1 only. keeping my fingers crossed. I did take pictures of what is thought to be the culprit and i used only gentle pressure to remove it from the guide and if you look close you can see damage on both sides of the seal where the guide would sit.


In any case, It worked but not perfectly. The rocker arm retaining spring that I had to remove to get the rocker out of the way of the valve stem did not go back on the same. The springs strength is about 2/3 of original (speaking of the force it exerts against the rocker arm)
Basically, it worked but at a cost. I didn't have to remove the head now but might have to later (not sure) depending on the condition and functionality of the spring.
in any case this did not go perfect so i suggest that no one else attempt this without knowing full well the retaining spring for the rocker arm will NOT go back on 100% exactly as it was when removed. Unless of course you know how to wind a spring up nice and neat cuz i sure as H&ll don't.
That said here's what I did.

 

1st: Get some tunes, Prepare your tools ( OHV spring compressor, air fittings for vyllinder compression via spark plug hole, prybar/ screwdrivers/ wrenches/ needle nose pliars and a vice grip)


2nd: Remove valve Cover keeping track of all vacum lines.


3rd: With rocker assembly now exposed. Move crankshaft by hand to point where neither exhaust nor intake valve is depressed nor depressing at cyllinder where seal is to be replaced. Remove valve adjustment screw and locknut from rocker above valve seal to be replaced. (in my case it was the #3 exhaust)



4th: With the needle nose pliars, AS CAREFULLY AS POSSIBLE ATTEMPTING TO PRESERVE THE SHAPE OF THE RETAINING SPRING remove it by unwinding it off the rocker assembly. Then, using prybar(s) and/or screwdriver(s) gently pry the valve stem and spring downward into the head by pressing against rocker arm ASSEMBLY so that the rocker arm is free to move. Then slide the rocker arm away from valve spring and articulate it over the opposing valve's rocker arm so it hangs freely.



5th: Chock your wheels apply parking brake and place car in gear. Now attach the air fitting and pressurize cyllinder. I used 60lbs.



6th: Now attach the valve spring compressor and compress spring. I checked to make sure the cyllinder was sufficiently pressurized by pressing down on the valve stem with the spring slightly compressed but not removed.




7th: Remove the valve spring retainers being careful not to drop them anywhere, and then remove the valve spring itself.



Now the stem seal is exposed and can easily be removed with gentle pressure w/channel locks or vise grip and an upward turning pulling motion.
Replace the stem and proceed backwards removing the air once the springs has been re-assembled and retainers put into place.

This is where I spent 45 mins of the 1hr it took total to do this R&R of the valve stem seal.
How the F do you wind a spring onto a metal rod. It seems so simple in your mind. So unless you KNOW by experience don't post saying to turn this or twist that. I don't want nor does anyone else, who might have to replace a valve stem seal, erroneous information/opinions. Thanks.

 

Well I am glad to hear that everything worked out in the end.

 

That's great that you got-r-dun!

Now the proof will be in the pudding.

Spring steel is very neat stuff in that it will bend quite far without yielding.

But in your case it sounds like that wasn't quite far enough.

 

cool deal. post back in a couple of weeks and let us know how it is running. please

 

will do. Plan on getting a set of 6 springs from a donor truck out @ the junk yard. Motor is blown on the truck so i'll get a good price. I think yankin' it off is what did it in for the spring, putting it back on should only alter the spring slightly and if it's better than how it is now. I'll take it.

 

awesome posting. thanks for the pics & description. glad it worked out for ya.

 

hey guess what guys. You ARE NOT GONNA BELIEVE THIS!!!!!!!
So, the plug fouling has greatly decreased, the seal on the exhaust valve was definetely no good. But, of course the plug still fouls slower then last time though. So I pull the valve cover and go after the intake valve seal right. WELL guess what i see when the spring comes off?

A BROKEN VALVE GUIDE AND A MUTALATED SEAL. Anyone who has followed any of my threads knows that i have posted countless threads trying to chase down this phantom tap in the valvetrain. I bought new valve adjustment screws, ive cleaned injectors, ive checked everything, and brushed it off as a poor valve job causing the yota to tap. No biggie. Then this elusive oil consumption from the rings they said, from the valves i said. Not to mention the annoying rough idle that has incessently plagued me at every stop sign as well as the poor fuel economy. Well there ya have it.
I am so frustrated it's ridiculous. I just dropped this engine in, in june. what the H&#Y. Honestly.
Well i guess it's back to square one, and if i could have it my way, i'd replace this valve guide on my own with out removing the head. Now wouldn't that be a trick. Fuc83ng ironic isn't it. I do all this to get around pulling the head and i have to do it anyway.
wow F me with a chainsaw.

 

at least this time it'll be done right! nice chem homework btw

 

any pics of the broken guide and mutilated seal??

 

I wish the 3.0 valves were that easy to get to ..........."sigh"