So the front of my truck was done right, but I'm not really pleased with the rear except for the fact that its already got chevy 63s and inward bilsteins... But other than that. it blows... And I'm ready to change that, so here goes?

The rear setup:




Here's a list of what I'm looking to change:

Here's a picture of the dual shackle setup:


Dual shackle setup: I want it gone, the truck feels like a deer learning how to walk in unstable/off camber situations and The dual shackle setup is causing too much unload. So what needs to be done? remove current hanger mount, measure 4-5" from original location, and a longer shackle or can I keep my current shackle?

Here's a picture of the blocks:


Blocks: I want to lower the truck down a bit, and put it back on 35s. that way I can possibly fit it in the garage. Currently its got a 4" blocks and the overload spring is cut that offers about half an inch. So 4 1/2" of spacer lift just looks welfare - ish. I'd love to see the truck about 2 1/2" lower. So what kind of problems can I possibly run into by doing this? Pinion angle? shorter u bolts? the brake lines are routed under the springs, will I have to relocate them?

what's everybody's opinion? Basically im trying to drop it about 2" all around, ditch the 37s, get it on 35s, fit it in my garage and be overall more stable.

 

Frame clearance is also 29" I'd like it to be around 26"

 

One thing you could do for the rear is remove the blocks and install a long AAL. Those are suppose to raise the height about 2" and not effect the ride too bad. A long shackle will also give you a little extra height and help the pinion angle (if its too low after lowering the truck). Yes you will have to move your rear shackle hangers. A good location for it may be where the shackles bolt together now. Thats where I would start and see how it sits anways.

 

So you suggest removing the blocks all together and just simply adding an add a leaf? and that will be equivalent to a 2" block? What brand would you recommend?

As far as the shackle hanger goes. I figured I'd just put it exactly where the 2nd shackle meets the 1st shackle like this:


Anyone Object?

 

I took a few more measurements. I also located a 2" block that works, and is only $47 dollars shipped.

My rear shackles are 5" eyelet to eyelet. But these might be perfect with the 2" block.

The ONLY thing im worried about right now is the fact that the parking break is BELOW the leaf springs, and if I lower it down 2 inches, itll hit. any remedies for that?

Thanks.

 

if you lower the rear, what are you going to do in the front to level it back out? remove a leaf? new leafs?


i think your ideal overhaul would be to ditch those 63s and replace with a proper leaf spring made for your 4runner if you're going to be spending any money on it. never understood why people think a super flexy, worn out, uber-long, used leaf is better than a new one made specifically for this application. IMO it creates more problems that need to be solved vs just paying a little more for a direct bolt-in solution.

if keeping the leafs, your best bet is to replace double shackles and setup the leafs the way they should be with relocated spring hangers - this is one of the main deterrents for most people doing the 63 swap because they don't have a welder...and as a result you get hokey setups like the PO did on your rig. once you relocate your hangers you may even be able to get away with shorter shackles to get lower height just there (depending on how long they are now). blocks is up to you - dunno if i've ever really seen a 63 swap that didn't have blocks unless they were lift-height chevy leafs.

 

Hey Brian,

Good hearing from you.

As far as lowering the front, trail gear springs come with 6 leafs. 4 relatively long springs, and 2 very short springs, towards the end of the pack. They act as overload springs for the front, for the weight of the v6. Removing one of these, will definitely lower the truck down. Im not sure if itll drop it an inch? or two? I'd have to talk to trailgear about it. But I'm really considering picking up some stock rear springs, and combining the trail gears and the stock springs together and having my own custom leaf pack that can handle the weight, and lower the truck down.

I agree with you 100%. if my truck had the stock mounting points still ( they're cut off, ground down and long gone ) I'd love to do that, but its just not ideal right now. The chevy 63s work great for what I'm using them for. They ride soft, and flex extremely well. so I'd like to give them a chance.

I'm planning on buying 35x12.50r15s and just building the suspension around them until I'm happy with the height. More than likely, i'll go with the blocks. I'm scared to go with the chevy lift springs because like you said, they're rated for a fullsize truck, and I feel like that would send the back of my truck sky high.

It'll all come in due time. rims/tires aren't that expensive and my 37s are currently still 19/32nd in tread which is practically brand new. The biggest headache is going to be dialing in the suspension.

 

how fresh was the SAS on your rig before you bought it? are the leafs even fully broken in yet?

i don't think the lift leafs would make it sky high if you're removing the blocks. dunno what heights 63s come in but i'd assume there is a 2-3" lift version before the 5-6" ones. you could probably get 1-2" lower just with those. yes they'll be stiffer - but that's one of the issues with 63 swap is that the leafs are so soft they are good on a trail rig, but not so great for anyone who drives lots of curvy roads or puts weight in the back...there's also the axle wrap issue. heck, they may even help with body roll and make your on-road manners much better with such a tall rig.

but what i'm saying is that if you're spending any money on redoing the setup, why not just buy the proper leafs for a 4runner and not have to think about it?

you may even be able to just buy a set of 4" TG or All-Pro leafs, then sell the 6" ones to recoup some money as another option

 

To be honest? I'm not sure how many miles the previous owner(s) put on the front suspension, I just know that the person I bought it off of kept it garaged, and strictly a weekend warrior. I've put 8k miles of wheeling and daily driving on 37s since owning it, though.

The springs on my truck are out of a 98 chevy 4x4. ( 4 leafs and an overload ) the overload has been cut down, and that's the little gap between the block, and the springs. I have no complaints with the springs, just the height is a bit silly. And granted, the sway in the suspension is kinda given with very soft springs and the inward shocks.

I actually haven't had any problems with axle wrap. I've been to Pismo, and other dirt roads, and I've never experienced any axle wrap, bouncing rear end, or anything.

swapping the springs out to the correct length would be ideal, but I'd rather just try to get these to work for now. as its my daily driver, and I expect rain to be coming pretty soon. And I don't drive the stang in crappy weather.

 

I'm in the middle of the same issue , lowering my rig about 2 inches for better COG , MPG , better off road handling etc ...

I'm going from 3" blocks to 1.5" on my Chevy 63's .

This place has 2" cast iron blocks for you for $31...

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index....oducts_id=7868

I'm also trying to answer the question: "How does lowering the rear effect the front" ?

I might just get about an inch shorter shackle in the front to compensate for the rear ...

 

PS: Also have never had axle wrap issues , or spit a lift bloc out . 20k plus miles on my current setup ... I do get a bit of axle hop on washboarded road , a rear trac bar might be in my future ...

 

Wont getting a shorter shackle in the front cause the axle to swing back, and look slightly weird? I have davez offroad anti death wobble shackles on the front.

 

Ill be taking a lot of measurements , if I can get about and 1.5 inches lower in the rear , and around and inch lower in the front by just running shorter blocks , I'll call it a day .

I already worked through a death wobble so that's the last thing I want to go through again .

Shorter blocks is just the first, and most cost effective way to begin to approach lowering a rig .... I'll keep you updated .

 

i think the axle wrap issue comes from using the 2wd chevy leafs, which are even more flexy and soft than what you have. sounds like you have the 4wd ones since you have 4 leafs.

 

If possible I would leave your Dave's Off Road anti death wobble shackles up front. 1" shorter shackles will only lower the front 1/2"

 

Yeah exactly, Its worth it for me to keep the front end stable. What do you think would happen if I removed the leafs from the front pack? they're TG springs, but unknown as far as 3, 4 or 5 inch. I believe they're 4" though. do you think I'd be compromising the leafs if I removed 1 or 2?

 

I don't think you would compromise the leafs. I asked the same question on trail gears forum and they said it would be ok. I'll see if I can find the post.

 

But what would you remove? one of the 4 longer springs or 1 of the shorter overloads?

 

I'm running 63"Chevs on my 88. Weld the rear shackle hanger right up against the back of the stock one. Right about where you said looks good. That's where mine is.


I'm running home built 6" hole to hole shackles and no blocks but I'm running 4x4 leafs, 4 of them and an over load. Perfect for my 35's and matches my 4" TG SAS. AFTER the front leafs wore in. Same shock setup.


I extended my parking brake levers on the backing plates so the cables would clear the top of the springs. Disconnected and tied up the LSPV.


I'm going to take out a leaf and the over load to soften the ride. I added the leaf and over load when it was my daily driver so I could carry stuff. More of a trail rig now so going back to super soft and flexy. Going to fab up an anti-wrap bar though.


When these are worn out I may get a set of Davez 63" springs. Supposed to give enough lift to not need blocks. Check em out. You also have the Zuk coil spring mod option.

 

here was trail-gears answer