Need Body Work Advice - Bondo, Kitty Hair and Fillers
11-09-2005, 05:31 AM
#1
Need Body Work Advice - Bondo, Kitty Hair and Fillers
I need some advice on filling in the rear panels on my 85 after the bob...one side more so than the other.
From what I've been told and read...as I have no real practical experience w/ any of this, but I don't mind learning by doing...i.e. bobbing the 85.
I want it to be durable and resist cracking, so the "kitty hair" (w/ fiberglass in it) bondo is what I should want.
The long hair is for the first layer (pita to sand).
The short hair is more for surface work.
Work in layers so things have time to cure properly.
Don't wait too long before starting to sand and try to get the shape you want before it dries.
I haven't really found much on the net as far as "how to's" for doing this so I'm looking for advice.
Any insight you can add is greatly appreciated. Links are welcome as well if you know of some good ones.
Brand products that work well and that you trust would be nice too.
I'm not looking for a show car finish here, but I do just want to do this ONCE...and it be done and not rust out, or crack, leak, etc.
Many thanks!
From what I've been told and read...as I have no real practical experience w/ any of this, but I don't mind learning by doing...i.e. bobbing the 85.
I want it to be durable and resist cracking, so the "kitty hair" (w/ fiberglass in it) bondo is what I should want.
The long hair is for the first layer (pita to sand).
The short hair is more for surface work.
Work in layers so things have time to cure properly.
Don't wait too long before starting to sand and try to get the shape you want before it dries.
I haven't really found much on the net as far as "how to's" for doing this so I'm looking for advice.
Any insight you can add is greatly appreciated. Links are welcome as well if you know of some good ones.
Brand products that work well and that you trust would be nice too.
I'm not looking for a show car finish here, but I do just want to do this ONCE...and it be done and not rust out, or crack, leak, etc.
Many thanks!
11-09-2005, 05:37 AM
#2
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found this forum while searching....
http://www.fibreglast.com/phpBB2/ind...bd241daf959880
http://www.fibreglast.com/phpBB2/ind...bd241daf959880
11-09-2005, 06:00 AM
#3
either fiberglass or bondo will work. fiberglass is harder to work with and more difficult to shape after it dries, but it's more durable.
if i were you, i'd do just what you said: first and foremost - rough up the sheet metal w/ a 50-grit flapper. really rough it up so the bondo sticks well. use kitty-hair in the first layer - applying w/ a 3" wide putty knife and smoothing as much as possible, and then plain thin layers for the surface stuff. sand between each layer to get the shape right. when done, you sand w/ 80 to get it laid out like you want, then fill with "green putty" (the stuff in the tube) and sand to finish w/ 150. after that, hit w/ primer and fill in any extra that shows in the primer.
if i were you, i'd do just what you said: first and foremost - rough up the sheet metal w/ a 50-grit flapper. really rough it up so the bondo sticks well. use kitty-hair in the first layer - applying w/ a 3" wide putty knife and smoothing as much as possible, and then plain thin layers for the surface stuff. sand between each layer to get the shape right. when done, you sand w/ 80 to get it laid out like you want, then fill with "green putty" (the stuff in the tube) and sand to finish w/ 150. after that, hit w/ primer and fill in any extra that shows in the primer.
11-09-2005, 08:03 AM
#4
Contributing Member
Rather than Bondo, I'd look into one of the newer plastic body fillers. I think the body shops use them. I used some a few years ago to smooth out where I welded on the wings on a TJM bumper. Still holding up fine: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...87536658rVHJHT
11-09-2005, 09:33 AM
#5
Originally Posted by bamachem
either fiberglass or bondo will work. fiberglass is harder to work with and more difficult to shape after it dries, but it's more durable.
if i were you, i'd do just what you said: first and foremost - rough up the sheet metal w/ a 50-grit flapper. really rough it up so the bondo sticks well. use kitty-hair in the first layer - applying w/ a 3" wide putty knife and smoothing as much as possible, and then plain thin layers for the surface stuff. sand between each layer to get the shape right. when done, you sand w/ 80 to get it laid out like you want, then fill with "green putty" (the stuff in the tube) and sand to finish w/ 150. after that, hit w/ primer and fill in any extra that shows in the primer.
if i were you, i'd do just what you said: first and foremost - rough up the sheet metal w/ a 50-grit flapper. really rough it up so the bondo sticks well. use kitty-hair in the first layer - applying w/ a 3" wide putty knife and smoothing as much as possible, and then plain thin layers for the surface stuff. sand between each layer to get the shape right. when done, you sand w/ 80 to get it laid out like you want, then fill with "green putty" (the stuff in the tube) and sand to finish w/ 150. after that, hit w/ primer and fill in any extra that shows in the primer.
2nd main layers: same stuff or just bondo
finish: what the heck is green putty?
I got the primer and paint part down!
Thanks for the help guys. Keep it coming. Not looking for a showcar finish, just something that will last and look decent over my superb welding skills!
11-09-2005, 10:32 AM
#7
Registered User
grean puddy= glazeing compound. basicly thin bondo that sticks well for thin areas.
generally used to fill in minorly low areas after you have blocked out the first guide coat. (otherwise you would never know they are low)
generally used to fill in minorly low areas after you have blocked out the first guide coat. (otherwise you would never know they are low)
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11-09-2005, 01:59 PM
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Metal prep is important, mig weld the seams being careful not to warp the metal
grind the excess off, cutoff wheel works good for that, there will be very little filling to do. Body filler (bondo) should work fine. Use a sanding block with 36 grit for first application after that if you have high spots (shiny metal) use an ice pick type tool and hammer to tap them down. Apply second application of filler and use 80 grit sand paper, repeat applications as needed. A little extra work with the block will eliminate the need for body putty which if applied to thick will crack.
grind the excess off, cutoff wheel works good for that, there will be very little filling to do. Body filler (bondo) should work fine. Use a sanding block with 36 grit for first application after that if you have high spots (shiny metal) use an ice pick type tool and hammer to tap them down. Apply second application of filler and use 80 grit sand paper, repeat applications as needed. A little extra work with the block will eliminate the need for body putty which if applied to thick will crack.
11-09-2005, 05:02 PM
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For small holes that will not be welded or PITA contours: When applying the filler, take a piece of metal flashing and bend it around any contours and attach to the outside of the body (wit tape or what ever will make it stay). This will give you a flat surface to smash the filler against from the inside. Once the filler sets in just a minute, you can pull the flashing right off.
This is of course, if it is at all possible to get to both sides of what you will be patching. If you can do this, finishing will be much easier because you will have to do no or minimal sanding of the bulk.
Also, make sure you remove all rust!!!! Cut that crap out. You want no rust if you do not want to do it again.
This is of course, if it is at all possible to get to both sides of what you will be patching. If you can do this, finishing will be much easier because you will have to do no or minimal sanding of the bulk.
Also, make sure you remove all rust!!!! Cut that crap out. You want no rust if you do not want to do it again.
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