Front Diff gear break-in? Drive it in 4Hi with hubs unlocked?
#1
Hey all,
I'm trying to figure out the best way to put the necessary miles on my new Front Diff gears to get them broken in.
Here's the catch:
Shouldn't drive with front engaged on asphalt, but also no real off-roading allowed during break-in. I assume that means my option is easy dirt road driving. 500-1000 miles is a lot of easy dirt road driving if it's not something you normally do.
So I'm thinking, what if I unlock my front hubs and drive normal slow city with 4Hi engaged and follow the normal break-in procedure as it would be for the rear?
That way the front diff is still getting the friction it needs to heat cycle/wear in but the wheels are spinning free so no tire wear/drivetrain strain from the 4wd. The only issue I see with that is that the front gears wont be loaded with the pull of the car, so that may affect the way it breaks in, but not sure if that's a concern or not.
Crazy idea or reasonable? If crazy, any other suggestions to make the front break-in less of a slog?
I'm trying to figure out the best way to put the necessary miles on my new Front Diff gears to get them broken in.
Here's the catch:
Shouldn't drive with front engaged on asphalt, but also no real off-roading allowed during break-in. I assume that means my option is easy dirt road driving. 500-1000 miles is a lot of easy dirt road driving if it's not something you normally do.
So I'm thinking, what if I unlock my front hubs and drive normal slow city with 4Hi engaged and follow the normal break-in procedure as it would be for the rear?
That way the front diff is still getting the friction it needs to heat cycle/wear in but the wheels are spinning free so no tire wear/drivetrain strain from the 4wd. The only issue I see with that is that the front gears wont be loaded with the pull of the car, so that may affect the way it breaks in, but not sure if that's a concern or not.
Crazy idea or reasonable? If crazy, any other suggestions to make the front break-in less of a slog?
#3
hmm, interesting thought. I do wonder if that would overstrain the front diff during break-in though. I doubt the front gears were designed to drive the weight of the car without help from the rear.
#4
Posed the same question over at Marlin's forums and got some good insight. Posting here in case it helps others.
https://board.marlincrawler.com/inde...105590.new#new
https://board.marlincrawler.com/inde...105590.new#new
#5
So...
Why don't you just lock the front hubs and drive around in 2 Hi?
I seem to recall that's what the long lost owners manual of my 83 said to do. Or maybe it was the salesman. Remember when car salesman actual knew something about the car other than where the USB port is?
Why don't you just lock the front hubs and drive around in 2 Hi?
I seem to recall that's what the long lost owners manual of my 83 said to do. Or maybe it was the salesman. Remember when car salesman actual knew something about the car other than where the USB port is?
#6
Yeah, that's what's recommended by the link over in the thread I posted above. Drive in 2H with hubs locked, then unlock and drive in 4H. Wears in both sides of the gear and neither puts strain on the driveline if you're on asphalt.
#7
I'm late to the party but driving in 4HI isn't bad on hard surfaces, not recommend....sure. It is just going to take some extra drivers finesse. Meaning, no tight turns for one. Unfortunately, those that have drive flanges just can't "unlock". I'd recommend atleast three 10 mile trips no faster than 55mph. Full cool downs between trips. You'll need to oscillate as you drive too. So, up on throttle and then off. That way you get drive/coast.
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