Well, the jury is still out... I haven't decided yet. I was really trying to avoid putting it in the cab. I have no room left in the front around the dash, so I would have to put it in the back of the xcab. That means longer cables, which I don't want, and having high-powered cables inside the cab, which I don't want.

MNBOY, I am thinking out loud here... is there any reason I couldn't just remove the relay from the control board, and mount it in the engine compartment, and then only have to mount the circuit panel inside the cab? There are only two [EDIT: make that four] small wires connecting the circuit board to the relay. I could just replace those with heavier gauge, longer wires, and that would eliminate my problems. I could mount the control panel inside somewhere, but keep the heavy cables short, and inside the engine compartment. I don't see why this relay unit is any different than others that are mounted in an engine bay? As long as I put rubber insulators over the cable terminals, I should be ok, right?

 

My QuickAir is laying in a box right now but I plan on mounting it in the bed, behind my toolbox (between the toolbox and the sidewall of the bed). You can see a pic of my toolbox here. I still need to see if it will fit there. If it does, I'll run a remote switch that can be reached from the back window of the camper shell (while standing outside) and plumb the air to a quick-disconnect fitting on the bumper.

 

I will have to look when I get to work tomorrow, but I can't think of why your idea wouldn't work. Most of the manufacturers warn not to shorten the wiring for the combiners, but that lengthening them is fine. I'm not sure how you have yours wired up (I'm having computer problems and can only load half of each of your pictures) but depending on the loads that will be running through each length of wire your may not need as large of wiring as you think. My combiner is wired with 12 gauge wire as I have the stock alternator and will only see a max of about 40 amps running through them, but I know the Pathmaker wires up differently than mine. Again, I'd have to see how you have your set-up wired, but I'm thinking you should be able to make it work without too much hassle.

 

OK - some info:

I am using the stock alternator (70 amps?)

Aux. batt. (Yellow) stock neg. cable to engine block (3' or so), new 1 gauge pos. cable to isolator (7' - not hooked up yet)

Starting batt. (Red) new 1 gauge neg. cable to engine block (5'), new 1 gauge pos. cable to starter (2'), new 1 gauge pos. cable to isolator (1'-6" max - not hooked up yet)

I will also have some 10 gauge ground wire from the controller to each battery neg. terminal.

I kept the stock pos.battery cable, (which used to go from pos. terminal of Red top to starter) left it connected to the starter at one end, and connected it to the main power box lead at the other end (had a direct conn. from redtop previously)

Did I thoroughly confuse everyone?

 

I think I understand. What I was suggesting is to downsize the wiring going to and from the combiner. If you know you will never use the moment switch then the only current going through the combiner is from the alternator, which means you are wiring for about a 50 or 60 amp load max, instead of several hundred amps for the starter. You shouldn't need more than 12 gauge or 10 max, which would make an in-cab installation much easier. Use your 1 gauge cable to connect the positive terminals of the batteries through a high amperage on/off switch, so if you need both batteries together (dead starting battery, using a winch) you just need to turn the on/off switch to ON. I have mine wired this way and it works great, except that my aux batteries are mounted in the bed so the cable runs are longer than I would like. Hope this helps.

 

Yea, actually it does! I see what you are saying, and it makes sense. I still think I am going to try to split up the circuit board from the relay just because I don't have anywhere really good to mount it inside the cab right now. I like the suggestion on the battery switch, but I would prefer to use the moment switch as intended by Pathmaker.

Regarding the moment switch, I was reading some comments on the Pathmaker from various marine and RV forums, and one person was saying that the contacts in the Pathmaker unit are not designed to handle the load required for combining and starting, and that after a few uses with starting current, they will fail. Have you had any reports of this from your customers? Or have you heard anything on this? This potential would make the switch you describe more desireable.

My intention was to just buy a spare diode-type isolator, or a relay solenoid, and keep it on board as a back-up in case the Pathmaker ever failed out in the bush. With a spare, at least I could continue my trip with dual battery capability.

 

This is just me playing "what-if" NOT me telling you how to have/build your rig.


How about spending that $$ on a Jumper Battery Pac? Then you have a back-up battery, a power source if the Alt goes out, plus you can jump start other vehicles with-out running the danger of blowing out your charging system, or needing to be near them.

Besides, if your Pathmaker fails you can wire everything direct (no isolator), this is not a good long term way to keep batteries charged, but be fine for a week or so, since you'll be driving every few days. Of course this is based on having the proper wire size, and keeping an eye on your Aux loads.


I like that idea of splitting the unit, keep us posted as to how that works,if you do it.

 

Steve, that is definitely something to consider. But I would like the reliability of a back-up isolator to keep the original system intact without having to rewire anything. The battery pack is cool, but it's more weight. I try to shave ounces wherever possible. It all adds up fast.

I think I will get one of those for my wife's car though! I might get one for the Taco too - but not sure... seems like the weight-to-benefit ratio might be a little too much. How do you figure it is a power source if the alternator goes out? Aren't they less powerful than a standard car battery, and would only be good for whatever charge you have in them?

 

A few years back on the annual Anza B, Yukon Bob's Alt stopped charging. He just plugged his Batter Pack in the cig lighter and drove home. Yes, you do need to keep to fully charged, I do mine every 3 month.

 

The unit you have is rated for 100 amp continuous, 400 amp peak, which means it can handle starting loads for a gas engine if it is wired with the proper sized wire. I think others were having problems trying to start diesel engines where they were exceeding the peak amps of the unit. I didn't get a chance to talk to the guys I know at Xantrex today but in looking at the wiring I don't see any problems with splitting the two components. I'll try to call them tomorrow to confirm. As far as your idea about a spare diode isolator, why not just buy an on/off switch like I have. It's cheaper and could be bolted right in place of the Pathmaker if you ever have a problem. Just another option. I'll let you know what I find out tomorrow from the manufacturer.

 

Hey guys, I really appreciate the feedback and suggestions you are providing - good stuff. THANKS

MNBOY, I will try to find that message thread that I read, about the contacts. I hope you are right

 

FYI - I used some plumber's putty, and measured the clearance from the top of the 3/8" stud terminals to the underside of the hood. There is about 1 1/8" for the left (negative) side, and 1 1/2" for the right (positive) side. Not bad!

 

Who'd a thunk there was that much room! It "looked" a LOT closer than that! No problem mounting terminals-

later

 

Talked to a tech at Xantrex (manufacturer of the Pathmaker) today, and they said there is no issue with extending the wires and moving the circuit board to another location. The bad news (there is always bad news) is that the board is epoxy coated and fairly waterproof, so it is not the part of the unit to worry about getting wet. I would still move it and mount it inside if you can, but it sounds like you will have to find a fairly protected spot to mount the relays under the hood. Let me know if there is any other info you need.

 

Hey THANKS! I appreciate you getting that info! I have been so busy, that's a great help. Now if I can only find some time to get this dang wiring finished I will work something out to WP the relay - I'm not too worried about it.

 

Hey, you live in AZ, how wet can it get? Seriously though, I've watched the cars float away in the low spots of the highway around there when it downpours. Funny as long as it's not your vehicle. Waterproofing anything on a trail rig is always a good challenge. Good luck on the rest of the install. I'm just finishing up figuring out extension cables for the new on-board welder so I can reach all parts of the truck. Guess I'll be ready for some serious damage control. If I get out of here this fall one of my stops will most likely be Tucson, and I'll be sure to look you up. Later,

 

Baja

Just a little tip. On the terminals that are bear and may short-out, use some liquid Tape to cover them. Stuff works good.

 

Matt, your problems are over - cover yourself in liquid tape - a remedy for bears.

 

MNBOY - thanks again. Definitely look me up if you come to AZ.

Steve - thanks for the tip! Actually, I already have some of that stuff... I am definitely planning on insulating them (I already have the covers on the deep cycle) and I will do the red top just as soon as I get the dang thing finished. I need a whole week just to devote to my Taco... hehehe... so much to do... so little time.

I will update this thread as soon as I move forward with the Pathmaker. Stay tuned...

 

"On the terminals that are bear "

It works better on terminals that are bare.

I even re-read it before posting, guess I need a proof reader