So I got to the point in my rebuild where it's time to install the valve cover. I did so when I noticed this gap:



The cover was not fully seating, so it was time to find out why. I suspected the ARP studs were to blame so I marked one with a paint pen, like so:



Sure enough, the stud was making contact with the top of the cover. Notice the dab of paint on the rib:



The details are these: Stock cylinder block, not decked, new Topline RV head casting from engnbldr, ARP head studs, stock valve cover.

I chased the head bolt holes before installing the head and I'm pretty sure I chased all the way to the bottom of each hole. After I noticed the problem, I loosened the head nuts and tightened the studs a bit more than hand tight to make sure they were seated fully into the block, then re-torqued the head and still had the same problem.

As I see it I have three options:
1) Take it all apart and chase the bolt holes again.
2) Clearance the underside of the valve cover (eek!).
3) Cut the studs down a bit. Seems like a bad idea to me.
4) Complain to ARP and see what happens.

My concern with #1 is that I've already torqued this thing down twice and I don't like stressing the head and studs more than I have to.

Concerns with #2 is that it could weaken the valve cover. The cover bolts doesn't require a lot of torque so I doubt the cover would fail, but it's ultimately just a cheesy way of fixing the problem.

What do you guys think? Did I goof up somewhere? What should I do next?

 

Bump for a Monday morning...

 

you could od the cover, i would, ot fab some sort of spacer but once you put that much work in you might as well mod the cover. im not too keen on shaving the top of the studs. you can do it with a grinder but those babies arenty cheap not to mention all of the metal filings

 

Wow, I'm really sorry WD! Hmmmmm, I'm in agreement with Blake on the 'shaving? Hmmmm'... portion. Seems risky on the shavings in the head end.... but you gotta do something, right?

Have you called ARP? Might even call engnbldr(Tod) or 22reperformance.com(Jim) and just see what they say?

I'd imagine they would not "grind" like butter, either, right? I mean, they are PRETTY hard Steel? Plus, you need to know exactly how much more you need in regards to clearance, right? I mean, the valve cover touching the head top is half of it.... then it torques down another 1/8" at least?

Again, really sorry man,...I'd call the pro's(Machinists, etc.) and see what they say?

 

WOW!! That is interesting. I almost ordered those for my 82.

 

I have ARP head studs that 22REPreformance installed and had no clearence issues.

I have heard of others having clearence issues with ARP studs. The conclusion was, if I remember right, was the holes were not chased properly. It takes quite a bit of work to get everything out of those holes. I have heard the best way is to take an old head bolt and cut a slit on the end of the bolt. Then run it in and out, like 40 times, until nothing comes out of the holes anymore. Then take compressed air and blow each hole out. Then they should just seat in with just enough clearence.

Hope that helps

 

I would check the part numbers and make sure you got the correct studs first. Earlier engines are taller by about that much (the gap)

Second, how can you be sure the head has never been clearanced before? Are you the original owner of the truck/engine?

 

I tap chased the holes, spun the engine upside-down and blew out the holes with compressed air, then visually inspected each one. They all looked good to me, but I'll readily admit I'm no pro. I kind of doubt that all the holes are gunked up by that same amount; but like I said, I'm no pro so I won't rule it out.

Cougar: I can't be 100% sure the block hasn't been decked in the past, but from everything I could see the whole engine looked original when I tore into it. The head is a brand new casting, so it definitely hasn't been decked.

At this point I'm thinking I probably have incorrect studs and I also really don't like the idea of grinding them down. I would definitely alter the valve cover before grinding the studs.

I'm going to give ARP a call and see what they have to say.

 

Keep us updated, I know this comes up every so often.

 

If you measure them I will measure mine I have sitting, waiting to be installed and I can tell you if your studs are too long.

 

Do not grind the ARP studs to fit. If they are the correct part for the 22RE they should fit, otherwise return them for the correct part. You've paid too much money for them to have to modify them.

I would return them and get the head bolts instead. Personally wish I had listened to Ted at Engineblder and never bought the studs and saved the money. My ARP studs will not prevent my HG from blowing out again in the future, and HG should last a good long while so I wont be frequently removing and reinstalling the head.

I'm left with the feeling I paid nearly $200 for some glitzy internal engine parts I'll likely never see again. I could have used that $200 to buy more tools, or an install kit for a gear set.

 

Most likely the wrong App. for the stud.

Mine fit no problem with old head and then the new one after the refresh.

 

Use a later model valve cover. iirc, the pre-85 V.C.'s are shorter, and round. I know my V.C. on my 87' 22R is about 3/4" taller

 

With the amount of gap in that, there is no way the block was decked that much. Not without having other issues.

Peow, by the looks of it, that is a post 85 valve cover. Flat front as opposed to tilted back.

I second the fact the studs are not threaded all the way into the block as they should be.

 

what was the verdict and the solution ? i just got the ARP head bolts and mine are too long as well....85 22RE

 

I chased my block with the snap on thread chaser set and the ARP studs should seat all the way in and I dont have any valve cover issues and I reused the ARP's twice.

 

i see you have an 88.....is there any truth that 86+ have a taller valve covers?

can someone with a 86+ measure their valve cover?

i chased my holes as well and the studs are in all the way in

 

I used a LCE red valve cover and right now Im using my original 1988 one.

 

I just noticed that this thread had gotten a bump and I had never closed it out. The bump was months ago, but here goes:

After talking to an engineer friend I decided to grind the studs. I wrapped everything in plastic sheeting and poked the studs through, then wrapped each one in masking tape. Might have been overkill, but I really didn't want shavings in my new head.

If I had it to do over again I probably would have relieved the rib on the inside of the valve cover first and gone from there. Oh well. Everything is back together and has been working great for some time now.

 

What about a different valve cover? Could you do that? Does anybody make one that doesn't have the same ribbing on the inside as yours does?