Buck87

The Hands, Thank you for including the year, make, model and engine in your post. Is your truck turbo charged?
1) Buy a manual and read how set the timing for this motor and make sure that you are shorting out the timing jumper when you do it.
2) If that does not help look up how to set the #1 cylinder to Top Dead Center and make sure that the distributor is installed and clocked correctly.
3) If step #2 does help repeat step #1.

Buck87

Is the 86 considered a 3rd gen?

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

89 is where 3rd gen starts for the pickups goes through 95.

You our can see the breakdown here by category
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f60/

Buck87

Holy thread revival!
Thanks for the reply Fishguy.

Thehands

How many degrees are in between the knotches.also what in the world does fb28 mean because it doesn't make since to me. And everything is stock I believe.

Thehands

I have a Chilton and a Haynes manual but I only have a few weeks until my tags are due.

Buck87

In California if I pay for the registration on time there is no late penalty regardless of the smog check result. When the car passes smog they mail the tag.
I cannot explain initial timing as well as the Haines or the Chilton.
The reason we speak of timing in degrees is because the distributor is a circle which contains 360 degrees of revolution; so each " notch" on the distributor gear represents a portion of 360 degrees.

helidriver

Bumping this, thought it better than starting a new one. Been reading through threads looking for an answer. Just failed, 87 22REC $runner 4x, valves adj, fuel filter new, oil/filter new, plugs/wires/cap/rotor new-ish and look clean and spark tested, 4-cyl compression tested 143-154, ALL vacuum lines replaced and appears to follow hood diagram, KN air filter cleaned, new O2 sensor, NO=codes, NO=leaks. Idle was up at 950 (according to the machine I could have had it up to 1200 and still be in the green. Timing is at 8*.

Idle RPM= 820 HC, needed to be less than 220..... What can I do to adjust down the HC at idle??? I know enough to be dangerous with this stuff, meaning what I've been told to do not so much knowing why. I was told advancing it to 8* vise the prescribed 5* will help pass smog. It's always passed before. It DOES have a slight burp/misfire at idle. What's the best way to get rid of the mis as I'm sure this is contributing to the HC levels being high? Will advancing or retarding from 5* help? In NV they only hook up a tach and don't look at ECM codes or engine wires/hoses, pretty easy visual/mech inspection (was watching the whole time and I didn't see him even once over it), just hookup a tach and stick in the sniffer.

Bottom line:

1) help to diagnose possible misfire causes
2) tricks to drop HC at idle enough to pass (only have about 10 days to figure it out and get it reg)
3) Any verification on theory of impact timing adv/ret and idle speed has on smog result (sanity check the basics of what I think I remember)

helidriver

Ok, just getting ready to play with the timing and do another vacuum leak test and the computer is throwing a #5= O2 sensor code. I just replaced this with a Bosch??? Where does the wire from the O2 come into the computer? Anyone know which pin and any fuse/relays it has to go through along the way to check ohms? Thx.....

RASALIBRE

I've heard that these trucks only work correctly with denso O2 sensors, so that might be at play here. The O2 sensor connects to the Ox terminal in the ECU, and is in the large center connector. When you're looking at the back of the ECU, Ox is the sixth terminal to the right on the bottom row.
The center ECU connector looks something like this.
Fpu W T IDL IGf -- -- KNK Ne
ACV TIL TSW -- E2 Ox Vcc VTA THW

RASALIBRE

What part of NV are you in? I happen to live in Reno. Down to help out in person if need be. I'm no expert, but I have an FSM... ha! Good luck!
Check this link on understanding the Vf signal. It shows you how to check O2 feedback (via the diagnostic port, under the hood, next to the fuse box) the same way the Fsm does, along with a couple of other tips.
https://www.well.com/user/mosk/Vfsignal.htm

helidriver

Im in Las Vegas.... Thanks though.

Hunting down some EGR issues now I think. Maybe EGR modulator or BVSV valve is not holding vacuum. Let the truck cool so I can start the system over from the start.

Haven't looked at the cold start yet..... no idea where to start there.

I do believe I have a VSV going to the cold start that is bad. Activity when 12V is applied off the truck. Not really sure how to test this though. Haynes manual is vauge.

RASALIBRE

When I first picked up my 1987 4runner the EGR port on the intake side of the head was completely closed off with carbon, both in the head and in the pipe leading to the egr. egr doesn't work at idle though, simple test would be to apply vacuum with the truck running at idle. The engine should studder and die.
You have a 1987 22re? There are two electronic vsv's, one is for the a/c, used to increase idle when ax is turned on. The other is connect to the fuel pressure regulator, raises fuel pressure when hot (? Ha!).
Cold start system consists of the cold start temp sensor switch (in the lower intake water jacket, pointed directly at the radiator, under the throttle body, brown in color) cold start injector (on manifold behind the idle up valve)
Too high of HC. You are dealing with either too much fuel or, assuming it's getting the proper amount of fuel, not enough fuel being burnt off. A simple (free) thing to do is unplug the cold start injector electronically and run the truck. This would rule out a electronically bad cold start temp switch/injector or any other electronic gremlin in that system. It doesn't rule out the cold start injector leaking mechanically though.
Id ohm out your TPS and your AFM, to rule those out too.
I don't really post or host pics on the internets. I'm down to email or text FSM pics for ya if you can't find any on the internet. Should be easy to find via search.

RASALIBRE

Your compression numbers are on the low side as well. Minimum pressure is 142 psi according to the FSM. I hope non of this comes across condescending. I'm no expert. Just have a interest in learning more and helping out where/when I can. Also know how frustrating this stuff can get. Good luck!

RASALIBRE

One last thing. Check out 4crawlers website if you haven't already. A wealth of info on there.

depiante

An 85 is 4th generation Hilux. When people refer to it as 2nd gen, that is only with respect to 4x4s. But even an 85 4x4 is a 4th gen Hilux.

old87yota

Due to the fact that different markets around the world have different vehicle offerings for these Toyota Trucks, as well as different names, I just found it easier to just state the year range.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Well you are on a 4x4 toyota website...

And we cant buy Hilux trucks in America.

depiante

Thanks for the info.

You could buy Hiluxes in the US until 1995. I was referring to the nomenclature Toyota uses for Hilux generations. Current ones are 8th generation.

Is this only a 4x4 site? Even so, I was simply trying to explain an ambiguity.

Thanks again.

old87yota

Toyota dropped the Hilux name sometime in the mid 1970s for the U.S. market. From then until the Tacoma in 1995.5, Toyota just called these trucks simply "Truck". There are differences between the U.S. Truck and the Hilux, particularly with the lack of diesel, four door cabs, and solid front axle (after 1985) for the U.S. models.

This is not a 4-Wheel Drive only site (otherwise I would not be here....), but the overwhelming majority of members here have 4WD as this forum started and still is an off-road forum.