Hey guys new to this i want to do a solid axle swap on my 91 4 runner using a 1982 front end. I want to build a 4link using coil springs. Any suggestions before i start. I am a machinist so i will be building all the stuff myself.

 

welcome to yotatech. just search around here and you will find everything and more on the swap.

oh yeah and we like pictures so lets see the ride!

 

 

seaching is your frined! may wana try Pirate on the link questions. just fro an FYI, never put newbie and SAS questions in the same sentence!!!

 

You need to run the calculators on Pirate.

Unless you are planning to run full hydro, you will have issues with bumpsteer and a 4 link with conventional steering. A 4 link will not move side to side during articulation, which is great on a rear axle, but with a drag link connecting your steering box to your knuckle you will get massive bumpsteer during articulation with a 4 link.

Short story: 3 link the front and keep the panhard and draglink angles the same.

Searching on this site is a waste of time. Not much here as far as link tech. Go to pirate, sign up, and search. Don't post.

 

Hes not joking. They will eat you alive.

 

Im gonna use a high steer kit that ill make will i still have alot of bump steer

 

Hard to say.

The issue with the 4 link is that the 4link holds the axle static laterally as the suspension cycles. The axle does not move side to side relative to the truck.

The problem is that the axle is connected to your frame via the steering box and drag link. The drag link will sit an an angle. As the axle moves up and down, the drag link moves through an arc. The effective length of the drag link changes as is arcs. Because the 4 link holds the axle in place, and the drag link moves, the net effect is to move the kunckle a bit, causing bump steer.

A 3 link with a panhard will elimnate this problem. By making the panhard rod similar in length, and sit at the same angle as the drag link, both the axle and the steering move laterally the same amount as the axle moves up and down, which means the knukles don't move in relation to the axle, and the truck doesn't steer when hitting bumps.

That being said, if this is a trail truck, the bump steer won't matter much at all. Even on a street driven truck, depending on how you design the suspension, the bump steer may only be slight and completely driveable.

There is a wealth of information on Pirate detailing the pros and cons of various suspension designs, an the calculators can help you put your ideas to computer first, and find out what the driving characteristics will likely be, before you ever touch metal.

This is a good thread that I've found helpful. Takes a while to wade through it, but its got good discussion.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168577

The calculators are here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893

Good luck with the build!