I have a 1992 Hilux extra cab, 3.0L V6, 4WD. 5 sp manual. I love the truck. I bought it 5 years ago on craig's list for 900$, The power train was solid, but the body looked rough. I cherried the body out and painted it. I replaced both bumpers, grill assembly, etc. Since I used to run an upholstery business, I put in new carpeting and upholstery. I'm planning on driving this truck for another 15 years at least. All this to say that I'm in this relationship for the long haul. So here's the question.

The clutch is slipping and I need to do a clutch job. Where can I get the best quality clutch kit? I'm planning on replacing the rear main seal while I have everything out. A mechanic I trust told me that I'd be crazy not to sleeve the crankshaft when I replace the seal.

1) If so, where can I get the sleeve and how do I find out exactly which crank is in my truck?
2) I've heard differing opinions about whether or not to use RTV on the gasket that comes with the bearing. What's the consensus? What works best?
I know that I need RTV on the top of the oil pan to seal mating surface. I want to do this so it lasts.

I do like to get out in some rough terrain to camp any explore slot canyons. I also like to pull a trailer or two. I just want to make sure that I don't have to pull the tranny again in two years when the seal starts leaking.

O.K., I've got another unrelated question regarding my AC compressor. I've done AC work and I know that the clutch has completely packed it in. The compressor is fine. I went out tonight and pulled all the bolts and I can't see any way to get the compressor to swing up from the back so I can get to the clutch with snap ring pliers. Am I going to have to pull the power steering pump to work on this? Is it possible to replace the AC clutch without opening up the system (which is still charged and otherwise sound)?

Thanks for the advice. I really need to get this back on the road. Thanks!

 

the only reason to put a sleeve on there is: 1)the area on the shaft where the seal rides is grooved or damaged, 2)none of the replacement seals are designed to ride on a slightly different section of the crank, which i think in the case of the 22re crank seal, they are designed to do just that.

 

I have not worked on the 3.0 seal so it could be completely different then what yours is, ( I work on the 22r/e) but what I have done in the past with a grooved shaft is to not fully seat the seal into the housing to where it is offset past the groove just a fraction and it has worked for me in the past. Not the correct way to do it but I have done it on two different trucks and has worked for me.

 

Sounds like a workable solution. Thanks for the advice. I just finished putting in a new AC compressor, PS pump, and alternator. I plan on keeping this truck for another 20 years and I don't like oil on the garage floor. Just an FYI on the AC compressor, it will not give you enough room to work on it without removing the battery and the power steering pump. I wound up putting in a new compressor (I put in a new AC clutch and the bearings went out in two days). The nose of the compressor had a wear defect. I bought a new compressor and receiver/dryer. I'm pulling 40 degrees at the vent and I'm a happy camper. Thanks all.