factory tacoma e-locker
#1
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factory tacoma e-locker
ok so heres my question this may be stupid to some people but im just now looking into this e-locker stuff seems pretty sick.... sooo i have an 87 4runner with 4.10 gears and i was wanting to put an e-locker in the rear end.... wellll i found one but its the whole thirdmember out of a tacoma with 4.10 gears my question is could i install this into my 4runner and hook up a switch???? or am i just making a fool out of myself and making you guys laugh by even asking this? lol
#2
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You have leaf springs, so yes, you can install it. It is about 2 inches wider than your axle. The park cable comes from the wrong side.
We have a '04 Taco axle under my son's 85 (5 inches wider than his OE axle) He has not resolved the park brake yet, but its because he hasn't tried. He put on 2" spacers on both sides of the front axle.
We have a '04 Taco axle under my son's 85 (5 inches wider than his OE axle) He has not resolved the park brake yet, but its because he hasn't tried. He put on 2" spacers on both sides of the front axle.
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well its the actual thirdmember not the whole axle assembly... just the thirdmemeber... would it fit in my current axle? my guess is prob not... and how hard is it to install an e-locker in my current axle if it is not possible?
#4
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I believe the 3rd's will interchange.... but it's not that easy.
You'll have to mod your existing axle housing and the wiring is far from simple. But it can be done.
Some links I have found:
http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/
http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/elocker/elocker.html
You'll have to mod your existing axle housing and the wiring is far from simple. But it can be done.
Some links I have found:
http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/
http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/elocker/elocker.html
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Yes it will fit with some grinding, no it's not that hard, and no it's not a stupid question. There are several ways to wire the elocker. I put TRD elockers front and rear in my 85 and wired them with an FZJ80 ECU and switch:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...switch-155297/
You could use relays, you could also buy a kit from either inchworm.com or 12voltguy.com. You could also follow my write-up and use a Tacome or 4Runner ECU and switch from a year where the rear elocker was a factory option (1997-2001??).
Good luck.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...switch-155297/
You could use relays, you could also buy a kit from either inchworm.com or 12voltguy.com. You could also follow my write-up and use a Tacome or 4Runner ECU and switch from a year where the rear elocker was a factory option (1997-2001??).
Good luck.
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what exactly is the cheapest most efficient way to lock your axle? front and/or rear? i know welding the rear end is an option but i have no welding expirience everything else i can do. what about manual lockers in the rear? those are possible right? The reason i ask is the e-locker seems to be a bit of work and money... im just trying to get some opinions anything helps!!! thanks war for your input.
Last edited by 874runner; 10-11-2008 at 11:40 AM.
#7
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What is a "manual" real locker? Selectable perhaps... like ARB or E-Locker?
Lockers cost a fair amount of money and will take some time to install. There is no way around it. There is also no way around what a locker can do to improve your vehicles performance off road. This is one of those upgrades that you just have to pay to play.
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thank you very much. that pretty much sums it up haha. i have to dish out some cash....
now if i welded the front end. it would only be working when i engage the 4wd so how could that be bad? it would be just on the trail...
the manual rear locker is what i assumed was a manual locker.... ive seen them on rigs they have hubs in the rear to turn and lock... maybe i just dont have a clue what i am talking about haha what is it though?
now if i welded the front end. it would only be working when i engage the 4wd so how could that be bad? it would be just on the trail...
the manual rear locker is what i assumed was a manual locker.... ive seen them on rigs they have hubs in the rear to turn and lock... maybe i just dont have a clue what i am talking about haha what is it though?
Last edited by 874runner; 10-13-2008 at 06:18 PM.
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thank you very much. that pretty much sums it up haha. i have to dish out some cash....
now if i welded the front end. it would only be working when i engage the 4wd so how could that be bad? it would be just on the trail...
the manual rear locker is what i assumed was a manual locker.... ive seen them on rigs they have hubs in the rear to turn and lock... maybe i just dont have a clue what i am talking about haha what is it though?
now if i welded the front end. it would only be working when i engage the 4wd so how could that be bad? it would be just on the trail...
the manual rear locker is what i assumed was a manual locker.... ive seen them on rigs they have hubs in the rear to turn and lock... maybe i just dont have a clue what i am talking about haha what is it though?
Because by welding it, you are not allowing the wheels to turn independantly of each other. They both have to turn the same speed.
This is not good for driving on the road.
Remeber, putting it into 4WD only puts power to the front wheels. They are still engaged to the front diff 24/7.
So you could say good-bye to turns over 10 MPH
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Because by welding it, you are not allowing the wheels to turn independantly of each other. They both have to turn the same speed.
This is not good for driving on the road.
Remeber, putting it into 4WD only puts power to the front wheels. They are still engaged to the front diff 24/7.
So you could say good-bye to turns over 10 miles per hour
This is not good for driving on the road.
Remeber, putting it into 4WD only puts power to the front wheels. They are still engaged to the front diff 24/7.
So you could say good-bye to turns over 10 miles per hour
A welded front will also make turning difficult
#11
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http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...7c4d785f207023
You can run the selectable hubs that way if you wish. I think people turn them off or on if they break an axle or are trying to flat tow the vehicle.
That said... such a kit has nothing to do with "locking" the rear diff, which is what you want to do to improve traction.
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Unless that is, if he has manual hubs. Then he could disengage the front wheels while on the street. Although doing so would make using 4wd on the street very difficult. If it is a trail rig it may not be that bad of an idea. But if you DD it then I wouldnt recomend it. Especially if you need 4wd on the street during winter.
A welded front will also make turning difficult
A welded front will also make turning difficult
You can run the selectable hubs that way if you wish. I think people turn them off or on if they break an axle or are trying to flat tow the vehicle.
That said... such a kit has nothing to do with "locking" the rear diff, which is what you want to do to improve traction.
That said... such a kit has nothing to do with "locking" the rear diff, which is what you want to do to improve traction.
#13
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If you already have the third, and its the same gear ratio, you're almost there! I just recently installed one into my 87, and its the BEST money I have spent on the truck. The one i got had to be re-geared ($$$$) I took the 'low-pressure' path, and bought another housing ($100) and did the mod to it, then swapped it into the truck on a Saturday. The wiring harness is fun to make too. There's several good threads on several boards, not hard to find... I also put a lockrite into the front, and yeah, makes it hard to steer. I can ride a lot with just the rear locked, and then just lock the fronts when the trail looks scary....
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