Cold Air intake vs Deck plate mod
#21
Well im pretty sure that is a n/a engine for those tests...if you look at the HP produced you have the lowest at 168 and the highest at 202 for stock box..now the 3.4 is rated at 189? ...so there is no way that a s/c engine would only get you a max of 202hp, since they are supposed to add approx. 75hp...
#22
Actually the 3.4 is rated at 183 but remember those #s are at the crank which ends up being about a 30hp loss through the drivetrain and a OEM SC with stock boost a 210whp reading would be about right since the stock SC with no fuel mods actually only produces about 50 more hp at the crank.
Plus remember dyno results do vary a little between dynos and conditions.
He's showing the results with consistent conditions.
Plus remember dyno results do vary a little between dynos and conditions.
He's showing the results with consistent conditions.
#24
I havent looked into CAIs for 4rnrs, so first a quick question.
Where is the CAI located on a 4rnr?
If its the same location as the stock air box, as someone mentioned, with a little inginuity, wouldnt it be pretty easy to make a splash shield?
I can see it being an issue if the CAI is mounted lower than stock (as with most sedans/coupes), but is its the same as stock...
just wondering.
tdk.
Where is the CAI located on a 4rnr?
If its the same location as the stock air box, as someone mentioned, with a little inginuity, wouldnt it be pretty easy to make a splash shield?
I can see it being an issue if the CAI is mounted lower than stock (as with most sedans/coupes), but is its the same as stock...
just wondering.
tdk.
#26
Actually the 3.4 is rated at 183 but remember those #s are at the crank which ends up being about a 30hp loss through the drivetrain and a OEM SC with stock boost a 210whp reading would be about right since the stock SC with no fuel mods actually only produces about 50 more hp at the crank.
Plus remember dyno results do vary a little between dynos and conditions.
He's showing the results with consistent conditions.
Plus remember dyno results do vary a little between dynos and conditions.
He's showing the results with consistent conditions.
#27
Coming late to the party...
A couple of random points:
A couple of random points:
- Do you run in the dirt at all? If so, the K&N is junk.
- A "cold air" intake on our trucks, in the sense of the standard design aftermarket stuff like the K&N, is worthless. Two hours on the trail in the sun, or an hour on the pavement in stop & go traffic and the air temp in that "cold air" box is the same as what it used to be before your $200 investment.
- If money is no object, then look into something like I just learned about today:
http://www.cryo2.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=1
WAIT! That was YOU that pointed that out to me!
#28
I havent looked into CAIs for 4rnrs, so first a quick question.
Where is the CAI located on a 4rnr?
If its the same location as the stock air box, as someone mentioned, with a little inginuity, wouldnt it be pretty easy to make a splash shield?
I can see it being an issue if the CAI is mounted lower than stock (as with most sedans/coupes), but is its the same as stock...
just wondering.
tdk.
Where is the CAI located on a 4rnr?
If its the same location as the stock air box, as someone mentioned, with a little inginuity, wouldnt it be pretty easy to make a splash shield?
I can see it being an issue if the CAI is mounted lower than stock (as with most sedans/coupes), but is its the same as stock...
just wondering.
tdk.
Coming late to the party...
A couple of random points:
A couple of random points:
- Do you run in the dirt at all? If so, the K&N is junk.
- A "cold air" intake on our trucks, in the sense of the standard design aftermarket stuff like the K&N, is worthless. Two hours on the trail in the sun, or an hour on the pavement in stop & go traffic and the air temp in that "cold air" box is the same as what it used to be before your $200 investment.
- If money is no object, then look into something like I just learned about today:
http://www.cryo2.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=1
WAIT! That was YOU that pointed that out to me!
I can actually use any standard 3" round filter i want since i have to get one anyways. And you are right that the "Cold Air" part of it doesn't really work. it is the free flowing design of the pipe that helps.
So you like that CryO2? It really works, i have seen it on a few cars and they all love it! Now in cold wether it is not near as effective but on the surface of the sun here in Texas it works great. I have seen a supra run a 12.8 sec 1/4 then run it again using the CryO2 and take it down to 11.9. Almost a full second just from cooler air. Now this was on a 105 degree day and he had that car tuned to the extreme but it still sold me on it.Overall i think i all going to deck plate it for now AND get the CAI for testing. When i get the results i will post them, it will be interresting. I do know that from my tuner car past CAI's work better on NA cars than TC or SC cars. So who knows...
Last edited by Texas_Ace; Apr 9, 2007 at 08:55 PM.
#30

...the "Cold Air" part of it doesn't really work. it is the free flowing design of the pipe that helps.
If you like the benefits of the tube, then do the ISR mod for about $15, or drop $80 on an Airaid JR kit which is JUST the tube. Works great.
So you like that CryO2? It really works
I do know that from my tuner car past CAI's work better on NA cars than TC or SC cars. So who knows...
Maybe what you're seeing is a more dramatic change in NA once you cool down the intake air. On TC'd or SC'd engines, you start caring about cooling things down around 9psi. But dropping the intake temp by 20* at that point won't do anything if you can't add the fuel and advance the timing to take advantage of it. That usually means that you're running a piggyback or a non-stock ECU...
If you drop the air temp on a NA by 20*, then you're still within the range that the stock ECU can take advantage of it and make the change on it's own.
Now, when I'm on the trails around here in August, I KNOW that I've lost 50-75hp after a couple of hours due to heatsoak from the underhood temps. I just installed a live hood scoop which I already know has helped a TON. I'll have to see how that pans out later this year.
#31
You gonna drag race your Runner?
Agreed, which (on the cheap) is what we cal the "ISR Mod". (look in the tech writeup section)
If you like the benefits of the tube, then do the ISR mod for about $15, or drop $80 on an Airaid JR kit which is JUST the tube. Works great.
If you like the benefits of the tube, then do the ISR mod for about $15, or drop $80 on an Airaid JR kit which is JUST the tube. Works great.
I like the concept of it, but it's overkill up here in the PNW. The CryO2 system seems cool for drag racing in the extreme heat, but for bouncing around on the trails, I'd rather take steps to get the heat out from under the hood in the first place. That'll help more all-around than just cooling down the intake.
Hmm... seems like kindofa weird statement since the issue with boost systems (i.e. TC or SC) is that part of the limit of your max boost is how much heat you're generating with the compressed air. That's why intercoolers exist for TC's and methanol sprayers exist for SC's.
Maybe what you're seeing is a more dramatic change in NA once you cool down the intake air. On TC'd or SC'd engines, you start caring about cooling things down around 9psi. But dropping the intake temp by 20* at that point won't do anything if you can't add the fuel and advance the timing to take advantage of it. That usually means that you're running a piggyback or a non-stock ECU...
If you drop the air temp on a NA by 20*, then you're still within the range that the stock ECU can take advantage of it and make the change on it's own.
Now, when I'm on the trails around here in August, I KNOW that I've lost 50-75hp after a couple of hours due to heatsoak from the underhood temps. I just installed a live hood scoop which I already know has helped a TON. I'll have to see how that pans out later this year.
Maybe what you're seeing is a more dramatic change in NA once you cool down the intake air. On TC'd or SC'd engines, you start caring about cooling things down around 9psi. But dropping the intake temp by 20* at that point won't do anything if you can't add the fuel and advance the timing to take advantage of it. That usually means that you're running a piggyback or a non-stock ECU...
If you drop the air temp on a NA by 20*, then you're still within the range that the stock ECU can take advantage of it and make the change on it's own.
Now, when I'm on the trails around here in August, I KNOW that I've lost 50-75hp after a couple of hours due to heatsoak from the underhood temps. I just installed a live hood scoop which I already know has helped a TON. I'll have to see how that pans out later this year.
Also on TC and SC cars since they are sucking the air in they can overcome less efficient intakes better than a NA car. On a NA car since it has to have the air sucked in instead of pushed in every little bit of friction in the intake causes less air to get into the engine and therefore less power.
I am also going to get a hood scoop for my truck, and I am playing with the idea of putting 2 on it. One on each side on the hood so that the left one will be directly over the air intake. But I want to see how it will look first.
So between the cooler air and the freer flowing design on a NA engine it helps more than a SC/TC engine. Now how much better it works on a NA engine depends on the car and what else is on it and what it is like under the hood.
One setup that I like is the CAI with a tornado air intake. See: http://www.tornadoair.com/
These are something that everyone should have on there car, I have been using them ever since they came out and you really do notice a difference. In power I have seen anywhere from 3 ? 10 extra HP from them and an extra 1 ? 3 MPG (just like they state, what do you know, a manufacture that actually correctly states what there product can do!). Yes, like I said I am a tuner buff and see a lot of these oddball little items (and not so little). You can get generic versions of there on ebay for $10, I have never tried them but they should work as good.
#32
One setup that I like is the CAI with a tornado air intake. See: http://www.tornadoair.com/
These are something that everyone should have on there car, I have been using them ever since they came out and you really do notice a difference. In power I have seen anywhere from 3 ? 10 extra HP from them and an extra 1 ? 3 MPG (just like they state, what do you know, a manufacture that actually correctly states what there product can do!).
These are something that everyone should have on there car, I have been using them ever since they came out and you really do notice a difference. In power I have seen anywhere from 3 ? 10 extra HP from them and an extra 1 ? 3 MPG (just like they state, what do you know, a manufacture that actually correctly states what there product can do!).
On our intake systems, they will do NOTHING. Those things are CRAP. Any "spinning air vortex" is completely destroyed by the time that it gets to the TB. These are nothing but trash, along with throttle body spacers.
Now, that's NOT to say that they won't provide some worth on a TBI engine, but on a direct injection engine like ours, they're WORTHLESS.
#33
OMG... dude... you're about to lose any of the audience you had here unless you tell us that you're kidding.
On our intake systems, they will do NOTHING. Those things are CRAP. Any "spinning air vortex" is completely destroyed by the time that it gets to the TB. These are nothing but trash, along with throttle body spacers.
Now, that's NOT to say that they won't provide some worth on a TBI engine, but on a direct injection engine like ours, they're WORTHLESS.
On our intake systems, they will do NOTHING. Those things are CRAP. Any "spinning air vortex" is completely destroyed by the time that it gets to the TB. These are nothing but trash, along with throttle body spacers.
Now, that's NOT to say that they won't provide some worth on a TBI engine, but on a direct injection engine like ours, they're WORTHLESS.
One thing i know is that i have never seen it hurt anything so i figure i might as well try it. plus i have a few laying around. I know that there are a lot of mods that work on cars that i will need to rethink on these trucks. but i also know that they all use a combustion engine and work in basically the same way. I have always been a torque fan over HP so a lot of the modding I have done will carry right over to 4x4?s fine. Some things won?t though and I will have to learn as I go on those.
Overall, the tornado is something that I have never seen hurt anything and I have seen it help a lot on cars. So I figure there is no reason not to try it.
#34
#35
lol
#37
That you are, it is some of the others that were not so easy on me. But i can take a rebuke, if i am wrong let me know. I don't have a problem being wrong. If i never made mistakes i would never be able to learn form them!
I have made plenty of mistakes in my days of car tuning. And i have also learned a lot from them. I just keep learning :-)
I have made plenty of mistakes in my days of car tuning. And i have also learned a lot from them. I just keep learning :-)
#38
#39
That you are, it is some of the others that were not so easy on me. But i can take a rebuke, if i am wrong let me know. I don't have a problem being wrong. If i never made mistakes i would never be able to learn form them!
I have made plenty of mistakes in my days of car tuning. And i have also learned a lot from them. I just keep learning :-)
I have made plenty of mistakes in my days of car tuning. And i have also learned a lot from them. I just keep learning :-)
#40
I do appreciate all the advise from all of you, it has helped a lot. As i said i am going to go with the deck plate until i get time to test out the free CAI on the dyno. So ya'll have convinced me, it just takes time sometimes... lol



