I can't for the life of me figure out who put all the time and mental energy into trying to get that monstrosity to mount there, or why!

 

So are you sure the secondary barrels are not opening, because they are vacuum actuated, there not opened with the throttle linkage, you can sit there and rev it in park all you want an you will never get the secondary's to open they only open under engine load(when your driving it down the road), so the only real way to tell if there unhooked is from the vacuum diaphragm the square sorta thing next to the choke, make sure the linkage from that is disconnected.

but personally it still seems like your not getting enough fuel from the fuel pump,

did the truck ever run good for you?

Try holding the throttle at 2500rpms and watch the sight glass for the primary fuel bowl and see if its still filling up or if you can see any gas moving in there at all when your reving the motor.

an if you really plan on keeping the truck i would def. go buy a webber carb or try and find a cheep stock carb for it, i feel like your gonna get a way better power curve and motor longevity out of a 2 barrel carb that's designed for it, there's way more technology in a simple carb than you would ever think.

 

well ill look a little better tom 2 see if they r hooked up i bought the truck on october last year and like i said it was horrible from 2-3,000 rpm almost barely driveable but after mechanic (fixed it) he got it to where it runs good until 2-2,400 rpm after that it runs great. is there a performance gain in a carb vs the oem? cause if i cant fix it then ill agree with u all and ditch the peice of junk and get a new one. but id rather fix it $ kinda low. thanks all ill do the fuel sight thing tom.

 

It's not a piece of junk... It's just too big for a 4 cylinder... sheesh!


Any junkyards or Craigslist there?

 

well you could of gotten a webber carb for new around 300 insted of takin it to that stupid mechanic that screwed you.

but are you saying when you do get the motor up into high rpms(over 3000) the motor runs great?

 

how did they "disable" the secondaries? if they just disabled the fuel side, (can't even begin to think how they even did that, remove vac to secondaries maybe?) Make sure they disconnected/disabled the secondary throttle plates as this will definately cause a lean condition when the secondary plates open, especially if the fuel has been cut-off somehow.

 

and I'm sorry if I missed it... but are you still running the stock FP?

If so, I can't imagine that thing supplying a @650CFM carb...

x2 on the weber and getting screwed...

 

yes thats correct its got a (hiccup) at the 2-2400,range then everything is fine.

 

well i went and saw a (carb guy) today and he is saying the same as alll of yall. way to big 4 the engine! what would u do if your in a pinch $$$$$$? and i could not find any #s on the carb gonna try 2 find a website.

 

what do you mean "what would you do if you're in a pinch"?

I know I've got 2 posts that tell you, and I know there are others...

Have you looked here? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...e-help-205242/

 

And here's the answers:

 

Buy a stock Aisin carb at a junkyard for 100-150$ at WORST. Slap it on, cap off vacuum as per the links I put up earlier. Sell the demon on craigslist for like 300 bones.

 

sorry guys just a liitle mad today so the answer is get a stock carb or a weber? i hate to be picky but do u think i could just put smaller jets in it? jets are only about 6 bucks vs buying a whole nother carb. sorry dont yell just a thought

 

You cannot get that Demon carb to work. If you continue to try to use it, you will most likely irrecoverably wreck that motor. As stated above, go to a pick and pull and get a stock carb, and cap off the necessary vacuum lines, you will find instructions for this on this forum, or you can PM me for help. Sell the Demon, you can probably get a few hundred bones out of it, you will be more than able to finance the rest of your carbeuration project from this sale.

To re-iterate: you will not get the demon to work. You can dump a bunch more money into it, and it still won't work. The demon is not going to work. Don't try to make the demon work. The demon is an un-workable solution. It isn't going to work. Get a stock carb, probably very cheaply, from a pick and pull, and use that. A stock carb will work great. The best solution for you is a stock carb. Stock carbs have been known to work well for building on a budget. You should buy a used stock carb from a pick n pull.

 

gosh pumpkin u sure know how to get the point across. so the demon will work lol. just joking

 

good luck, let us kow how it goes! repost if you have more issues, I'm sure nobody here would mind giving more help if you need it. When I get my de-smog thread up, i'll drop a link here for you.

 

well dont know if yall care but my demon is a road demon jr 525 cfm with a 50 jet size and i was told wrong (by the first mechanic) it is squirting all 4 barrels. man u guys know your stuff so thanks so say ive ran the truck like it is for about 5,000 miles have i done any damage to the cylinders as of the (washing)?

 

Probably. That being said, I don't know a great way to test that other than a compression test. As stated earlier, you will probably need new rings soon.

I'd still slap a factory carb on it, and drive it like you stole it until you need to do more. If you need to re-ring, you might as well do a complete rebuild while you've got it apart, and that can get pricy.

 

what do u guys think of a holley 350cfm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holle...#ht_1722wt_769

 

Toyota uses a hell of a strong wrist pin... They are basically doubled b/c there is a bushing, IIRC...

So....

Just drop the crank and pistons, cly hone'er and put the bottom end back in with (my recommendation) matched Toyota bearings...

Will it last as long as if you rebuilt the entire block, plus wrist pins? Of course not...

Will it last? Of course...

Will be be cheaper than a full-on rebuild? Certainly...