4.88s
33s
lunch box locker up front
winch
tools
GUN :p

 

im not sure on the best back spacing to be honest. i can tell you that to much b/s will cause rubbing on the frame and to little can cause rubbing at the fenders. the farther out you have the tires on the front the more they swing (forward and backwards as you turn the steering) as they are further from the pivot piont. i probally didnt explain that all that well but i think you can get my drift. im thinking for a 10.5 you would be pretty close to stock b/s maybe a little less, just to help out with the height.
as a few others have mentioned gears are a good investment. they help keep yor rpms were they should be on the power band. 4.56s are ok but 4.88 would be great. id run 5.29s if it were me but you do loose some gas mileage on the highway. with 529s you also have some room to go to 35" tires if you ever decide to. 488 = 33 or less / 529 = 35 or more. once again lockers are your biggest improvement imo.

 

Got the wheels and tires this week. 33x10.5x15 BFgoodrich muds and Jegs had a great buy on the steel wheels. On the wheels I went with 15 x 8 x 3.75 Back space. Next Q is Im going to get my rear locker and gears but the rear diff has been changed from stock to a newer (wider) diff. How do I know what it is or what it came off of so I can order the correct parts.

 

oh boy! at on piont i had a chart that explained them all and how to identify them. i think i searched msn or google for toyota differential i.d. did some browsing and found this site that listed them all with pics. it was perfectly / simply put so well that i printed it out to save. now if i can find it, lol! i will look and get back.

 

search "erik's toyota differential info" on yahoo or what ever you use.
i would recommend the new spartan locker. air or electric is the best way to go but they are big bucks so as far as a standard locker spartan is real good for the money.

 

Was thinking the Detroit, pros or cons on any lockers or recomendations would be helpfull. Remember Im not really planning on doing any hard core rock crawling.

 

Cool , thanks. I now know I have a pre 95 4 cylinder 8" rear axle. I was thinking about the Detroit locker. Pros and Cons ? Remember I dont plan on doing any hard core rock crawling. Just hard core hunting . Also picked up a set of chevy 63 " springs this weekent from the local pick your part and orderd the installation kit from Ruffstuff. Decided on the 63's becouse of the somewhat low lift depending how many leafs I leave in, no sag do to use and time and a smooth ride . Thats the threory anyway. Got a set of hand me down 3" lift springs for the front with larger shakels. Looks like about 4" total lift up front. Next steps will be gears front and back , knuckle rebuild , rear locker , a high steer kit and shocks.

 

detroit is is fine as well as the spartan. im assuming your looking at the lunch box style. these are simple and effective. the air or electric ones are nice because you can switch on and off depending on your needs, mut alot more money. streetability? lockers are tricky on icy or slippery snow covered roads,and take time to get used to, lots of traction but not much steering control. 4 wheels spinning you just kind of slide sideways. one wheel spinning and one not spinning on each axle keeps you in a straight line. but if there is traction at all lockers will get you there.tire selection is key because ice/snow tires are different than mud tires. i would recommend winter tires during winter. off road or deep snow lockers are incredible.like ive said 3" lift 33" tires gears lockers and you can never have too much lighting. two lites front (100-130 watt) two lites back (80-100 watt)and one on each side (50-80 watt floods) a winch is nice but a come along works to, just dont buy a cheap one. hi lift jack and the obvious emergency gear like oil, a/f ,straps etc. hopfully youre taking every ones advice, doing your own reseach on it and making your own decition on what is good for your needs and area that your using the rig for. there are things that havent been brought up like trailer hitches and racks but im sure youve got that figured out.

 

you have to show us before and after pics!!!!

Did you get this thing running right?

I think your headed in the right direction.
As far a lockers I had a detroit in my 94 x cab I use to have, loved it.
It takes some getting use to in the snow and ice, I would still rather have it than not. Spartins have good reviews on this site.
You will love your tire choice, that is what I am putting on my hunting rig for next season.

 

Is a locker better in the front axle ? I know front wheel drive cars do better than rear wheel drive cars in the snow . Maybe do front and rear ? Just seemed overkill for a hunt rig . I will see about pics. I allready striped off 6 inch body lift, 2 inch rear blocks and whatever springs that were on it . Trashed the 40's and cleaned 10 years of grime, rat droppings and nesting material from under the hood. Suprisingly the thing runs pretty good. Cleaned up the fuel system and a few vacume leaks and fired right up. For how long ? who knows. Going to install the 63's this weekend. I will start takeing pictures.

 

Sure! Look really its cash dependent. You will be suprised what just tires will do. How much do you drive on the street?
You could throw a lunch box locker in the front knowing that when you put it in 4wd you need traction.
Its very easy to put a lot of cash in our trucks, I am in a battle with my truck as well. should I throw 35s on it, should I lock it etc. Its a do everything rig, I drive it on the street a lot, I wheel it a bit. First and formost when I take it hunting I want to get it home!

If cash is a issue, just run it with the tires first. Then as you get it dialed, start looking at lockers and what not.

That being said if I had to throw only one locker in, It would be in the rear.

Good luck!!

 

If you're thinking about lockers front and rear you might consider a LSD for the rear and a lunchbox locker up front. I've heard people have pretty good results with this setup. With the LSD in the rear you'll get more traction without all the sketchyness in the snow/ice and when you need more throw it in 4WD and you'll be fully locked in front. Obviously selectable lockers would be best, but they're big $$$.

 

Sorry this is all new to me. LSD ? Lunchbox ? Im learning as I go and this site seems endless with answeres . Just a guess, LSD = limited slip diff. ??

 

Yes LSD is limited slip differential. A "lunchbox" is just another term for auto lockers like Detroit, Aussie, or Spartan. Don't worry, before long you'll be spouting off weird technical jargon to all the noobs. Everybody's gotta start somewhere and this is a good place to learn.

 

Do the runners come with LSD or does open mean just that , open. If thats the case who offers a Limited slip . All I see are the lockers.

 

Our generation of trucks have open diffs. LSD's use a clutch pack of some sort so when a wheel starts to spin it transfers power to the wheel with traction. It's something like a 60/40 power transfer I think. The Detroit Truetrac is a limited slip, check Eaton too If you haven't already, they might have something too.

I don't know if it's been mentioned yet but, you might look in to the TRD E-Locker retrofit too. Some later model TRD Tacomas and 4Runners came with an E-Locker and with a little modification to your axle housing you can bold them up. I'm sure there's a writeup on here somewhere.

 

my rig started as just a hunting rig
-taller skinnier tires (234/85-16) help you grip better and dig in snow and mud.
-re gear and lockright or spartan in the rear. drivability is no problem with these lunchbox style locker.
-small lift
- pull the sway bars (they are crap)
-diff armor at least for the ring gear on the axle
-winch and hi lift with straps, chains and come-a-long

i have built over 6 hunting rigs for guides, and houndsmen and this is what i tell them to start with. most of them dont want or dont need anything more than this

lsd are nice but a true spartan or lockright will out weigh one any day of the year when you are in the bad stuff. and they are cheaper, easier to install, and provide true
traction.
when all i had was:
20r motor, 4.88 gears, lockright in rear, 234/85-16 tires, diff armor and 3" lift

 

Installed the 63 's today. Very happy with the results. Gave me rite hight , about 3" lift which made the runner sit leval. No shocks yet but I think its going to be just what the Dr. orderd. Total job was 6 hours . Shakle angle looks to be about at a 45 deg. Too much ? Next step is shocks all around, a rebuild on front axle along with a highsteer kit.

 

 

Got a delema . With the 3 inch ish lift Im working with and would like to keep , Im having trouble with shock size. Rear truck collapst is 16 inches from mount to mount. Extended is 26 - 27 ish. Bilstein 12's too long when collapst and 10's too short extended. The extended length of the 12's. works. Ideas on raising the mounts on the frame to get the length needed when collapsed ? Also what distance should I be looking for on the upward travel.