Just in the rear?

 

That's NOT stock- 4.88 would be. 32" tires and 4.88s will not cause the motor to rev noticeably more and even if it did, 22REs can be revved without harm.

 

ok so now that i know i need to change a crap ton of stuff...(thanks for the info) i started my truck today and it started knocking really bad from the back of the motor! im guessin i got a broken rod....is it worth fixing or should i just get a new motor? also is it possible to upgrade to the 3.0L without changing everything else?

 

You don't want a 3.slow, the 22re is a better motor, if you do any toyota swap into a 3rd gen pickup, your best bet is the 3.4 form 1995.5-2004 Tacomas.

 

35's will give you more power... I don't know what the fuss is all about...

44's would be like adding a Turbo!

But seriously... A n00b that hasn't even tried... I learned most of my stuff b/f I even signed onto a a forum...

Get some free stuff from vendors and read magazines...

Advanced Adapters has a great FREE buyers guide.
Downey... RIP
NorthWest Off Road Specialties
The Toyota Owners Bible by Mosus Ludel is a waste of money...

 

hey car ramrod! ive only ever worked on american made trucks! back off!
its easier to get more horespower out of a chevy 5.7L vortec 350 then it is outta my little 4 bangger yota!

 

Put some smaller tires on it until you research gears properly...

You have no idea what you're getting yourself into, and you're not the only one.

So sit back, play in the search box and FAQ and pay attention to threads. You'll be fine... It'll just take you a while longer than starting a post on every topic to learn this stuff...

 

That is probably the first and only time I will ever hear "upgrading to a 3.0" in a sentence.

You have the 22RE, which could arguably be one of the best engines ever made. You DO NOT want the 3.0. The 22RE is also one of the simplest engines and would be a great place to learn some basic mechanical skills.

As far as a knock goes, your going to need to give us a little more info to make a determination.

 

ive tried to find out if the 3.0L will fit up with the tranny i already got. ive been trying to find info on it and so far cant...everything i read they are going to AT trannys out of 95.5 and up trucks...i wanna keep my 5 speed...dumb tranny is almost brand new!

 

Well now you've got a Japanese one so you get to start over with what you think you've learned.


Shocking... Seeing how it's got 4 more cyliders...

The 22RE was not designed to have power. It was designed to last forever...

If you want twice the power and time at the pump and half as much MPG then you need a V8 truck.

 

well the knock is for certain coming from the lower rear end of the motor. thats why i think its a rod...and its a really loud knock..thats all i got

 

dont want the v8 thats why i got this...better mpg...but ive seen these trucks with 44s running down the highway doing 60! i have a hard time doin 65 with my 32s...im starting to think i got a lemon for a motor

 

The V6 and 4 cyl do not share the same bell housing bolt pattern, so no.

IF you had a V6, the best thing to do is the 3.4 swap. B/c the blocks are basically the same... But I'd just deal with it rather than swap them out... But that's just me.

You're not dealing with the numerous parts interchangeability your ol' Chebby had anymore.

I don't even think the motor mount locations are the same between the V6 and 4 trucks... So with the wiring nightmare you'll have fabricating nightmares as well...

Just swap in a 4.3. Then you can use your tranny but will be right at the torque limits... Then you can get a stronger R150 tranns and it came with a V6 bolt pattern... so... Just regear your diffs.

 

ok thanks ramrod

 

My bone stock 91 reg cab 22RE 4WD got on the rounding up side of 19 MPG. 150 miles a day. North Carolina flat country and I 40 to Wilmington.

The next problem you have is drag. Regearing will make your new tire diameter closer to stock, but you've got heavier, wider tires now and a taller stance that has more wind resistance... and gears cannot help you there.

I had steel wheels to, and looking back, going to aluminum would be the 1st thing I'd do. A locker would be 2nd.

30's or 31's with aluminum rims will prolly get you the best MPG you can get. (and still have off road prowess) Stock would be better.

Don't forget the narrow, radial 33/10.50 BFGs as well...

But make no mistake. If you only want it to be better off road put a locker in it 1st for the best results.

I guarantee a Toyota on stock 28's with a rear locker will out wheel a truck with open diffs and 32's... And ride better, have more power and get WAYYYY better MPG doing it.


Here: http://www.aussielocker.com/make.php.../bcd8/20/.html

 

Another thing you don't need, is more power.

More power (non bolt-on mods) will stress the internals more and it also come at a cost... less MPG.

The more ponies you have, the more you have to feed them.

The closer to stock you can keep that truck. The longer it will last. Bar-NONE!

 

Here's a pretty important question as far as determining the course of important upgrades: How are you going to use the truck? Are you crawling, mudding, using it as a trail rig/light expedition, hardcore expedition rig, etc...

This is important, because there is a balance to be reached between budget, customization, etc. that will vary dramatically based on your usage.

You can get some power gains from this motor, and you can get some perceived power/relative torque gains from gearing, but how you balance these, tire size, ride height, etc. will depend on how you will most commonly use the truck. If this is just a DD with some light offroad on occasion, gear it, run 30x10.5's or 31'10.5's, give 'er a good tune up with some quality parts, and leave the rest alone. If you are on a more radical bent, research, continue to ask questions, and decide how you will use the truck.

 

im running 33-12.5 and i was thinkin..if i was goin to spend money on new rings an pinions i was just goin to get the 5.29 set...my thinkin is i do alot of crawling and dont got the budget to dual case yet.....key word yet. is it bad to run 5.29 set with only 33s?

 

im running 33-12.5 and i was thinkin..if i was goin to spend money on new rings an pinions i was just goin to get the 5.29 set...my thinkin is i do alot of crawling and dont got the budget to dual case yet.....key word yet. is it bad to run 5.29 set with only 33s?

 

I would think you would lose some normal rpm top speed is all.