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3VZE No Spark, No CEL when key on

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Old 09-04-2018, 04:46 PM
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3VZE No Spark, No CEL when key on

I've tried what seems like everything as far as troubleshooting. I haven't replaced anything besides a coil that I had laying around since the coil was reading slightly lower than normal resistance. I've read the article about the tap test and there is spark when I touch a test light from the black/blue wire on the igniter to the positive terminal of the battery. I've tried unplugging the vafm and the CEL still won't turn on. I've verified the bulb is working by grounding the purple wire and the CEL turns on. I'm stumped at this point and not sure where to go next.
Old 09-04-2018, 09:33 PM
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I've also checked resistance of VAFM, Distributor Pickups, and Coil.

I've also checked for 12v and 5v at the igniter.
Old 09-05-2018, 04:13 AM
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Voltage times current equals power.

Voltage is only half of the requirements for electrical components, you need to check the current flow also. No current no power.

Likely causes are frayed wires, loose connections, dirty contacts in those connections, and partly blown fuses.
Old 09-05-2018, 11:57 AM
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What do you suggest I do next? I've checked for 5v reference at the VAFM and that checks out good.

I've checked the resistance of the VAFM, Distributor Pickups, Coil. Those all check out.
Old 09-05-2018, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
Voltage is only half of the requirements for electrical components, you need to check the current flow also. No current no power.

Likely causes are frayed wires, loose connections, dirty contacts in those connections, and partly blown fuses.
Originally Posted by randol_8o8
What do you suggest I do next? I've checked for 5v reference at the VAFM and that checks out good.

I've checked the resistance of the VAFM, Distributor Pickups, Coil. Those all check out.
Website/phone ate my long lengthy response. Sorry.... Your gonna have to read up on electric tests..

Double check ecu connectors clean (metal to metal), plug fully seated, female terminal not loose on male post.

Voltage drops on supply, across battery terminals, terminals to wires, wires to fusible links, fusible links to fuse, fuse to relay, across relay, relay to ECU..

Check ECU grounds, at ECU, at ECU ground, at battery connector. (Voltage drop)

Check the ground switch's at the ECU for the CEL (continuity check to battery ground post from ECU terminal)


...
Holy @#$%, that's a lot of tests.
Yes but they are easy touch A touch B kind of things.

Here is why.. You have a five volt output by the ECU, this indicates it is atleast partly powering up (has voltage and is drawing some current).

This all needs to be done with a fully charged battery, if you have a brown out (voltage going below the threshold the ECU is designed for) it shuts down, partly shuts down, or just does things it's not supposed to do..

If all that checks out, be very very certain its not a simple wiring fix, odds are your ECU is going to need replaced.
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