So I'm trying to get to my leaky front main seal, but can't get the bolt loose on the crankshaft. I tried the breaker bar starter method to no avail and also tried pushing on the breaker bar with it in 4th and my partner standing on the brakes. Still no luck. I don't have access to a pulley holder, any other tips?

 

Impact? Could try to tightening it a little and then backing it out.

 

sigh...no impact tools

I did try to tighten a bit and then back out, no luck there either.

I'm thinking of spraying with some pb blaster, applying some heat, and putting an extension on the breaker bar. If that doesn't work, is it a horrible idea to use a jack on the breaker bar to exert more effort than I am able? Or do I risk breaking the bolt that way?

Also I got a quote from my local mechanic $280 + what ever they charge for Toyota coolant - HAAHAHAHAHA $280?!?!?!!! - I laughed my way out of that shop and am determined to get this thing out on my own.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...olt-22r-95923/
lot of suggestions here.

 

What happened when you tried the breaker bar when the truck was in gear? Truck moved? What size breaker bar? Are you able to get a cheater pipe over the breaker bar?

 

I had a stubborn bolt once. I had to take a dremel with a cut off wheel attachment and make a couple of score marks on the flange of the bolt. The score marks should be made just deep enough to cut through the flange only. Once the spring tension on the bolt is gone, just back it out with a ratchet. That bolt has a very large flange on it and it acts a spring on the pulley, remove the spring action on the bolt and it's now just a bolt. Need a new $10 bolt though, but far cheaper in time that fighting it.

Just be careful and don't knick the pullys or your balance on the front end of the motor will be off.

 

So the problem is that no matter what, brakes smashed in, in 4low, in 5th gear, and both rear wheels blocked the engine just turns with the breaker bar.

I have tried both counterclockwise to loosen and then tried clockwise to tighten, but everything just spins in sync with the breaker bar so I can't get traction in either direction.

any other ideas? I have no welding materials or chain wrench.

Thanks for any and all ideas!!

 

Will heating with a propane torch do anything at this point?

 

They can be a real something some times. The last real bad 1 I did my snap on impact wouldn't even take out. Try 2wd high 4th gear. Put your braker bar on there and put a 5-7 foot pipe on it. That's what I had to do last time.

 

since the problem seems that I can't keep the engine stationary despite all gear and brake efforts are there any recommendations on an affordable chain wrench? and what size?

 

I would beg borrow or steal ( not really steal ) an impact wrench. A 1/2 inch impact should break that sucker loose in no time. You need the quick shock that an impact exerts on the head of the bolt to break it loose. If no impact is to be had, hit the breaker bar with a big hammer to put a shock load on the head of the bolt. that should do it.

 

can always put some rope in one of the cylinders to help hold the engine along with in gear and brakes, just make sure the cylinder you use is almost at top dead center before you put the rope in so there is no chance it gets in valve port. Harbor freight sales a cheap chain wrench, or you can build a plate to bolt to balancer and weld a long handle on it.

 

1. $22 18in chain wrench from autozone
2. bike tube sliced down the center to save the crankshaft pulley
3. 48" cheater pipe (upgraded from 36")
4. 2x4 to crank the chain wrench against
5. propane torch to heat up the bolt
6. big @ss hammer
7. all of my might

I'll post pictures and maybe a little write up with the details soon.

Thanks for the additional tips, I was happy to get this done with rental tools from autozone and not having to drop several hundy on a high power impact wrench and air compressor.