Circle takes the square!

Dalgozy, since it is all apart take the extra few minutes to inspect the blower switch and resistor also please.

 

Yep, time to disconnect battery and start cutting into the loom! Wish I could drop it down further to get at it easier and I pray very deeply I don't have to go into the loom through the firewall! If thats the case, I may decide to do the generic toggle switch to condensor fan and ac clutch. Although I've always believed in fixing things correctly and not rigging them...... If I do have to do the toggle idea, what would be the best switched position place to tap into for power? Bad thing is I used to be a electronics tech and used to read television schematics with a breeze. Now I'm on so many meds for my health, I just cant concentrate and read the most simplest one unless it's on how to wire a table lamp!!! I'll keep you posted with results! Thank you for everything so far!

 

Blower switch is working flawlessly, where is the resistor? and how can a open resistor cause a fuse to blow?

 

Are you saying that turning the fan on blows the fuse even with the ac switch turned off? Are you saying that your fan will not work at all? Don't have time right now to read the schematic again. I can't remember if it gets any voltage from the ac fuse or if it's on another circuit. Either way, your problem is in that fan or fan circuit. Switch, resistor or motor.

An open resistor won't blow a fuse but a bad one with too much resistance can. You could turn your fan switch to full speed and then replace the fuse to see if it blows. There should be little to no resistance from the resistor on high speed. If it doesn't blow the fuse on high speed but does at any of the other speeds then the resistor should be replaced. On most vehicles it in screwed into the air duct right beside the fan somewhere. Normally held in by two screws.

 

Yes to all the questions above and I will try the idea of fan on high then putting in fuse. Thanks for that information! And the fuse blows with all of the ac plugs disconnected and switch not even connected.

 

Having issues doing a multi post quote. Wanted to get the situation edited down and clear..

Heater blower works in all ranges.

The AC fuse blows regardless of AC switch position.

AC fuse also blows with the AC on/off switch and AC sub harness disconnected.

Directly powering the AC compressor clutch provides cold air with AC sub harness and AC on/off switch disconnected.

I think he needs to retest the AC activation wire for shorts to ground. maybe that got skipped? That was about the time we got sidetracked over the AC switch having a backlight.
....
Dalgozy, run each of these tests give answers in the form of
Test#, "Xyz ohms" or "Open circuit (no continuity)"

AC fuse pin 2, clip a probe lead to it.
using the other lead connect to each test point.
Test1, to body (ground).
Test2, to A14 pin6.
Test3, to ig1 pin9.
​​​​
​​​​​​Move the first probe lead to A14 pin 6.
Test4, to body (ground).
Test5, to IG1 pin 9.

Move the first probe lead to IG1 pin 9
Test6, to body (ground)

 

All the above correct. I will try the testing in the morning on the pins. Time for dinner and a movie!

 

I'm going to have to bow out on this one until I know whether or not the fan works after the fuse blows. He just answered yes to "Does the fan not work at all?". I think it's just a communication issue because I was under the assumption as well, that the entire heater system was working fine. Just not the AC. I was starting to think that there is an open gate between the higher amperage heater system and the 10A AC circuit but not enough information to proceed. I'll check back later.

 

Yeah, limbo land not a bad place to idle. I've been chalking up the oddities to the eyesight on a tiny screen..

​​​​

 

The heater/ac blower fan works fine in all speeds. The ac 10 amp fuse in kick panel blows instantly with entire ac system unplugged including ac on/off switch. The blower/fan motor continues to work fine in all speeds after fuse blows. Hope that helps!

 

And I am all the way by Galveston Texas.

 

Short in very first leg of the circuit. All in.

 

where is the first leg of circuit?

 

Do these first please before we go any further

 

From fuse box to AC switch, AC Dual Pressure Switch, or to AC cut relay. It branches out to these three components before it goes anywhere else. I have never had a second generation 4Runner so others will have to help us out with the locations of the components. L-W wire in the diagram.

What color is L? Looks blue in the diagram but that doesn't always mean what color it actually is.

 

Confirmed, L-w is blue with white stripe

 

Which pin on ac switch?

 

Actually before any tests, I need to follow heater ground that is practically raw into the harness to be sure its not shorting any other wires. Then replace the ground wire and if I still have a problem, Then begin all the testes. Doing any tests before being sure burned and melted heater ground wire is not shorted to another wire, is wasting time and effort. I will cut into loom and follow it out and let you all know the results in the next few days. Thanks for all the help and info.

 

Do NOT put that AC fuse back in untill you run these tests. It's best to run those tests while the dash is still apart. We have already established once above you have a serious fire risk and that the blue wire is flowing around loose and exposed inside the dash somewhere. The tests above are to isolate it to a section of the dash loom you need to cut open and visually inspect for OTHERS that are damaged.

You shouldn't even have hooked the battery back up untill and unless instructed to. Like I said above you aren't just risking danger to you but first responders, people around you, and MY loved ones.

​​​​​​i was being dramatic before when I said the "my loved ones" but now I'm pissed you didn't listen because my brother his wife and children live IN Galveston!!! And she is an EMT!

 

PS someone tell me when he posts those results cause I'm not a participate until then