UsdmGarage

Hey yall, been searching and researching a lot on this.

i have a 1991 Toyota Pick up with 22RE. It starts up great on cold starts but after a few minutes of driving then restarting it does not want to start and i have to pump the gas pedal and revving it to start up.

1. i read about the engine coolant temp and I changed that since it was a cheap part and still the same issue remains
2. checked the air flow meter and its good
3. Checked spark plugs and they are clean with tannish white on the ceramic
4. No vacuum leaks
5. Runs and idles good

so it doesnt look like its flooding or running rich as it seems to be Stoich.
im thinking fuel pressure regulator / fuel pressure or Or fuel pump?

and a couple of days ago my fuel gauge tokk a crap, not sure if the sending unit is part of the fuel pump.
Anyone have similar issues and resolutions?

coryc85

Hmm - I have had a similar issue for years. I don't DD the truck, so it really hasn't been a major issue but it still bothers me.

Cold starts are never a problem, truck starts very quickly. If I drive it somewhere, say to get gas, shut it down, it will always start back up with no trouble. However, there is a in-between area, where if the truck sits for about 30 to 45 minutes, then I need to either step on the gas to open the throttle plate. It usually blows a bit of black smoke out the exhaust when I do this, and I'm thinking it got flooded and opening the throttle plate allows some more air in there to help it out.

I know that I have a somewhat working IACV (or Aux Air valve) because I checked it back putting it in the freezer and seeing that the valve opens, then warming it up and it closes. There is some small adjustment that can be done to the IACV opening/closing for the older style like I have. But your truck should have the newer wax type that is built into the throttle body, I don't think it can be adjusted. My thought was maybe I could open it up to let just a bit more air in...I really don't know though.

Seems like the IACV opens and closes as temperature changes, and then the Cold Start Timer either allows the CSI to spray extra fuel or not, based on the temperature of the coolant in the block. I'm speculating that the opening and closing of my IACV is not quite matching up with the spraying\no spraying of extra fuel from my CSI, meaning that for some range of temperatures I've either got extra fuel and no extra air, or maybe I have extra air and no extra fuel. I'm not sure, but since there is an adjustment screw on the back of the IACV, I thought I'd try opening it a bit more. I know this doesn't really answer your question, but I figured I'd share since we seem to have a somewhat similar condition.

UsdmGarage

Thanks for the advice. I had taken out the throttle body and complete soaked and cleaned it and checked, then I installed it and put a new throttle body gasket. Drives damn flawlessly and idles perfectly no matter what. It only has a hard time starting after the engine gets hot.

I also noticed and with advice of my smog technician friend that my last smog test, my truck barely passed. He said the Catalytic was pretty much toasted. I and took a look at the cat with the O2 sensor, they look old as heck. I wonder if this could also be the case in which the O2 and Cat is sending incorrect readings to the computer or maybe it is stuck on cold start mod and limiting the air or choking it.

I would also assume that the Vain / mass air flow may be a contributing factor as when I got the car it was running super lean and had detonation / backfire. I opened up the Vain/MAF and clicked it two notches Richer. Since then she has been running like a champ.

I am not such a noob but then these cars are old and a simple ground wire or something when hot could vary it's characteristics. I can live with it and maybe buy some spark plugs and a wire set and do an oil change. Might as well. I love the truck, I guess if it is still ticking then I cant complain. 1JZGTE is coming but this 22RE wont' die. haha

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Have you figured it out yet? I know it's been a while since the last post, but to see if it's flooding after a warm start, try to warm the engine up, shut it down, unplug the cold start injector, and start it in the condition where it normally won't start. If it fires up correctly, the cold start injector is running when it shouldn't. I've also read the cold start injector sometimes leaks, rich condition when cold isn't normally a problem, but when hot it can be. Same could be said for the normal 4 injectors. Maybe send in the 5 injectors to have them professionally tested and cleaned? While it's apart clean the fuel rail, change fuel filters. Doing a plug check only works if you check it right after the problem, since the engine runs healthy, the extra carbon from running rich burns off fairly quickly. You'd more likely see the plugs slightly wet if you crank w\o giving it gas then checking the plugs.