Zuk mod questions
#21
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 12,009
Likes: 122
From: Northeast Pennsylvania
I saw someone else reply with a similar concern on another thread. are you on a phone or computer? this has never happened to me. go to the FORUMS section SITE FEEDBACK and post that question. I'll be interested in the answer.
back to the thread.......I am watching this closely as I am just forming some thoughts on doing the ZUK mod on my son's 88 4runner (in my sig)
#22
I plan on doing the ZUK mod sat....plan on taking a bunch of pics. can't wait to see the results!
LITLRED- try highlighting your post when you are ready to post your reply and right click copy. if by chance you get logged off you can just right click paste and you'll have your post again
LITLRED- try highlighting your post when you are ready to post your reply and right click copy. if by chance you get logged off you can just right click paste and you'll have your post again
Last edited by Adk_Yota; Apr 21, 2011 at 03:09 PM.
#23
I plan on doing the ZUK mod sat....plan on taking a bunch of pics. can't wait to see the results!
LITLRED- try highlighting your post when you are ready to post your reply and right click copy. if by chance you get logged off you can just right click paste and you'll have your post again
LITLRED- try highlighting your post when you are ready to post your reply and right click copy. if by chance you get logged off you can just right click paste and you'll have your post again
right click....select all
right click...copy
#24
Springs are ordered
I plan on doing the ZUK mod sat....plan on taking a bunch of pics. can't wait to see the results!
LITLRED- try highlighting your post when you are ready to post your reply and right click copy. if by chance you get logged off you can just right click paste and you'll have your post again
LITLRED- try highlighting your post when you are ready to post your reply and right click copy. if by chance you get logged off you can just right click paste and you'll have your post again
Thanks for the tip.
I've been working alot lately and try to squeeze in time whnever I can.
Ordered the springs yesterday, 14 x 125 from the link on Zuk's site.

$60 + 13 S&H -$6 Ebay coupon. My local mafia Picn n Pull would charge more for used springs. They should be here in a week so Hopefully I'll install them next weekend. My rear springs are so flat and with the aals its like i'm driving one of those old school Harleys with no rear springs!
Tried pushing down on the bumper to test the shocks a while back but it doesn't budge. Later today I'll measure to see if I have 3 inches of shock travel left after raising the rear 4 inches. Do I need to remove the shock to do that? Or can I just jack the back all the way up then measure the difference? In case you couldn't tell, Im a newbie at suspension stuff. Pretty much a newbie at all of it but I sure like the thought of fixing my suspension for under $70. Most repair shops charge that just to look at it.
Last edited by LITLRED; Apr 22, 2011 at 02:09 AM.
#25
You'll really like the way it rides. I have the Zuk mod done, and I couldn't be happier with it. I just need to get the front of my truck to ride as well as the back of it. Who'd of thought anybody would ever say that about a truck!
#26
when you sign in
fill in the user name then your password but also check off the remember me box , that should solve your problem.
#27
Zuk Mod done
Was able to get the new springs in today and its one of the best mods I've done so far. It was surprisingly easy. I spent way more time researching this project than actually doing it. Maybe thats the way it should be?
Before

After


These are the the tools I used

1 in wide masking tape marked where to cut. Only took a couple minutes to make a nice even cut. Then I cleaned it up with a wire wheel.

Took the shock off at the bottom and used the bottle jack to get enough clearance to use the pry bar to slide the spring into place. It wasn't seating all the way up aganst the frame at first so I put the bottle jack under the axel raised it up a couple inches and with a loud pop the spring snapped into place flush again the frame.

Looks factory

I'm at about 14-14.5 inches from rim to wheel well.

Only took a couple hours. Time left over to replace another leaking radiator.
But thats another story.
Before

After


These are the the tools I used

1 in wide masking tape marked where to cut. Only took a couple minutes to make a nice even cut. Then I cleaned it up with a wire wheel.

Took the shock off at the bottom and used the bottle jack to get enough clearance to use the pry bar to slide the spring into place. It wasn't seating all the way up aganst the frame at first so I put the bottle jack under the axel raised it up a couple inches and with a loud pop the spring snapped into place flush again the frame.

Looks factory

I'm at about 14-14.5 inches from rim to wheel well.

Only took a couple hours. Time left over to replace another leaking radiator.

But thats another story.
#30
SWEET it is 
LITLRED- I imagine you've taken it for a few rides now and have noticed the super smooth ride from the rear? Notice how it soaks up bumps instead of bouncing over them? What's the status of the rear shocks? With over 4" of lift, are they still aok and still have some down travel? If it seems bouncy in the back then that's an indication of worn out shocks. A stiff shock will influence the benefit of your new soft ride....for example, if you get some ProComp ES3000 shocks you might find the ride seem stiffer. ES3000's are a very "robust" shock but they are valved pretty stiff is the best way to put it. I have Bilstiens and not everyone can justify them costwise(~75 each) but they do ride sweet.....perfect for sweet coils
I can't speak for the tons of other shocks out there but anything is probably better than a worn out shock.
If you ever do carry a heavy load you will appreciate the way the coils support the new weight. You have some options to make it more level as you probably know....you could cut up to 2 inches off the top of the coil (based on your 12.5" extended measurement) and turn the open edge of the fresh cut to the inside so no-one sees it...... you could also add some BJ spacers down the road. That means a front end alignment would be needed so a little more cost to think about. Or you could run it like it is. You won't experience any sag for 10~20 years so if you're waiting for the rear to "settle down" a bit you have a long wait
If, for some reason, you want even more lift from the back (4" bracket lift plans for front) then you can keep the 14" coil length and add 3" longer shackles to gain another 1.5" rear lift. Even with 3" longer shackles your 14 inch coils will stay tight even at full extension.
Feel free to post up any crossed up articulation pics you might take....a pic of how far the leafs are off the overloads would be interesting. I wanted to also complement you on your clean job of making it look factory. Job well done!
ZUK

LITLRED- I imagine you've taken it for a few rides now and have noticed the super smooth ride from the rear? Notice how it soaks up bumps instead of bouncing over them? What's the status of the rear shocks? With over 4" of lift, are they still aok and still have some down travel? If it seems bouncy in the back then that's an indication of worn out shocks. A stiff shock will influence the benefit of your new soft ride....for example, if you get some ProComp ES3000 shocks you might find the ride seem stiffer. ES3000's are a very "robust" shock but they are valved pretty stiff is the best way to put it. I have Bilstiens and not everyone can justify them costwise(~75 each) but they do ride sweet.....perfect for sweet coils
I can't speak for the tons of other shocks out there but anything is probably better than a worn out shock.If you ever do carry a heavy load you will appreciate the way the coils support the new weight. You have some options to make it more level as you probably know....you could cut up to 2 inches off the top of the coil (based on your 12.5" extended measurement) and turn the open edge of the fresh cut to the inside so no-one sees it...... you could also add some BJ spacers down the road. That means a front end alignment would be needed so a little more cost to think about. Or you could run it like it is. You won't experience any sag for 10~20 years so if you're waiting for the rear to "settle down" a bit you have a long wait

If, for some reason, you want even more lift from the back (4" bracket lift plans for front) then you can keep the 14" coil length and add 3" longer shackles to gain another 1.5" rear lift. Even with 3" longer shackles your 14 inch coils will stay tight even at full extension.
Feel free to post up any crossed up articulation pics you might take....a pic of how far the leafs are off the overloads would be interesting. I wanted to also complement you on your clean job of making it look factory. Job well done!
ZUK
#31
Thanks to all for your input.
Here's some pics of the springs



The ride seems OK to me but those shocks gotta go.
Bilstein has a shock for 3-4 in lift. I'd guess that I'm about 2 inches over stock now?
Leaning towards monroe sensatrack since thay are cheaper and people on the forum seem pleased with them...good value.
Here's some pics of the springs



The ride seems OK to me but those shocks gotta go.
Bilstein has a shock for 3-4 in lift. I'd guess that I'm about 2 inches over stock now?
Leaning towards monroe sensatrack since thay are cheaper and people on the forum seem pleased with them...good value.
#32
What's the eye/eye center measurement? Measure both sides.....extended number would be best. Jack rear up til tires are almost off the ground and get an eye/eye measurement.
and thanks for those pics. Looks like the leafs are way off the overloads
and thanks for those pics. Looks like the leafs are way off the overloads
Last edited by ZUK; May 1, 2011 at 04:40 PM.
#33
Here's a Rancho chart.....
http://classicbroncos.com/rancho.shtml
here's another and will open if you have Excel (.xls)....
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/shocks/Shock_Specs_2-0.xls
a better Ranch chart...
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/shockspecs/
Bilstein chart....
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/bilstein_5125.cfm
page 279 of this for Gabriels ..... http://www.gabriel.com/documents/Gab...al_1_12_11.pdf
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=shock+length+chart
here's a Monroe chart in pdf..... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...4&d=1197917206
http://classicbroncos.com/rancho.shtml
here's another and will open if you have Excel (.xls)....
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/shocks/Shock_Specs_2-0.xls
a better Ranch chart...
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/shockspecs/
Bilstein chart....
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/bilstein_5125.cfm
page 279 of this for Gabriels ..... http://www.gabriel.com/documents/Gab...al_1_12_11.pdf
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=shock+length+chart
here's a Monroe chart in pdf..... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...4&d=1197917206
Last edited by ZUK; May 1, 2011 at 04:32 PM.
#37
http://gearinstalls.com/coilinfo.htm
#38
Longer shocks
The Monroe sensatrac replacement shocks #37032 have an extended length of 21.5 in. And my old KYB's look to be about 1 in short too.
Does this mean I'm looking for a shock with an extended length of 22.5 inches? Still searching...
#39
I'd say at least 22.5" extended. from what i gather shocks shouldn't be used as limiting straps....it will ruin them rather quick if they are constantly maxing out and the suspension still has a bit more travel
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