JamesD

This may help some of you: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...sida-s-137629/

ozziesironmanoffroad

ha, i did the supra afm swap... . BIG improvement on hills, but it started hard in the morning. maybe it was just cuz vegas is so much above sea level, i havent tried the afm here in san diego yet. its a good idea though!! i reccomend the supra afm for a 22re

90toy4runner

hi guys
first off im new to yotatech and i cant spell very good,but ill do my best.

what do you think of this?
what if you take the afm off the intake tube and then mount it somewhere, then connect the air filter to the tube. connect a cable to the throttle body then to the afm flaper door and adjust it so when the throttle body is closed or wide open so is the afm door. would this do any thing bad? all i can think of is it running alittle rich if you have low rpm's and step on the gas full throttle.

Kiwipushrod

Hey Guys,

Has anyone looked into using an Audi/VW AFM, they are the designers, of this FI system, are they not?

Thanks, Kiwi

dcg9381

Why would you do that?

Your engine isn't a linear system. It's air demand doesn't vary in a linear manner with throttle position. It's a fairly complex system that changes in volumetric efficiency, RPM, load, and atmospheric conditions out side.

Wiring it to a throttle position is going to do some odd things. Will you damage something? Probably not. Will it run well, I'd lay big odds that the answer is no.

28 hp by removing the AFM? I seriously doubt it. Toyota isn't in the business of intentionally designing inefficient motors. Check the area of the TB - compare that to the AFM. Removing the AFM, you still have to pass air through the TB, which has a very similarly sized hole.

It's like having a hose with two restrictions on it. You remove one of the restrictions, but you're still dealing with the limits of the other (the TB). This also assumes that the motor will *want* more air.


Note, I'm not against anyone playing with this.. It's stuff like this that leads to innovation and ultimately a new modification to an older motor. Just keep your expectations reasonable. Anyone that says "28 hp" in the AFM.. well, ask for a dyno run.

MonsterMaxx

You ain't going to believe what I just did....

Found a guy selling a new eMS-Pro with wiring harness for $500 (that's $1000 system at the best deal I could find.) Now I just need to hunt down a wideband.


Looks like I'm going to pioneer Megasquirt for the 3.turd this summer. Wish me luck...

Jay351

Good luck. Although I find it pretty funny that you are dumping in another 500+ into the 3.0

MonsterMaxx

Yea, I know. I'm probably going to be kicking myself...again

I did a calculation not too long ago. If I can just get 2mpg more mileage it'd pay for itself in less than 10,000mi, and that was when gas was still $3/gal.
Since I get 15mpg now, and many report getting 20+ w/ the 3.turd, the goal of 2mpg improvement seems reasonable...if I can get it to work.

Jay351

Keep us posted Im interested if you can get any gains from openeing up the VAFM but not the throttle body outlet.

MonsterMaxx

I don't expect any gains from removing the AFM. I highly doubt the barn door is ever opened 100%. If/once I get it running I'll do a clean intake pipe and eliminate the AFM, though I expect little difference from doing so, in truth, biggest reason to do so is the rubber on mine is very old and is likely to crack soon. (megasquirt is a speed density system which does not need the AFM or MAF, it measures the density of the air and knows the speed of the motor, then calculates the amount of air flow from that)

If there are gains they will come from being able to control fuel and timing.

Truthfully I expect very little additional power at WOT, what I'm hoping for is MPG and a smoother powerband.

machine23

on the 3.slow air inake there is a shield in front of the tube coming out of the air cleaner box. put in the k&n stock replacement filter, remove that stupid shield and anything else blocking the puny 3" hole, and add an air hose duct. kragen should have the air ducting hose. made by spectre. if you do this you are removing any restriction of air flow. i think toyota was more focused on colder air coming in than higher flow. because if you do the math it seems like only half the amount of air would be coming in thru the shield they had going, than just an air duct. it will breathe better and i am getting a tad more power than before. i have my hose sitting right where the hood comes down.


note, you may notice the coolant reservoir evac hose coming out right next to the air cleaner hose. i just twisted this thing so it will come out more towards the block than going right into the air intake

Kiroshu

On one of our old runners we took off the little Air take hose and just cut a huge hole in the air filter holder. It does alot better like that too. In terms of MGP.
___________________________________
95 Toyota 4runner SR5 V6 3.0 Automatic 4X4 151,000 Miles

HAVOC

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81996
http://www.mapecu.com/map1.html

found it on yotatech (somewhere).

JCM4x89pu

LOL!! if you think the 'puny' 3" hole in the airbox is small, then you should take a look at the tiny rectangular hole that we are talking about... it's right above your air filter... pop it off sometime and look at it.. you will shiat yourself... that is the restriction that we are talking about removing.

JCM4x89pu

..oh.. and that stupid sheild is what allows your intake to suck cold air in from behing your headlight, and sheilds the intake from sucking hot air in from the engine bay.. the best thing you can do with that is simply remove your drivers side headlight!.. sounds stupid, but i have tested it with and without the headlight over and over.. and i see an average of 2/3 mpg increase city/highway.

im not trying to give you a hard time... what you did actually is good.. but its barely doing anything... you should route that intake hose down somewhere and withe the opening facing foreward.. that would allow cold air to be forced into it.. like a ram air hood.. or just be lazy like me and remove your headlight anytime you want better mpgs and a little more power.

JCM4x89pu

YEAH! i was reading about the map ecu .... i wonder if it would work, i need to research it a bit more though... it would be a cheaper option than the maf conversion... but im concerned that the stock ecu would not read the proper numbers from the map ecu piggyback because the numbers are inverted for the afm.. so the stock ecu would read inverted from the piggyback... so the piggyback would have to be capable of inverting the numbers so the stock ecu could read it..

..i think you can do map with the megasquirt system.. like the guy at the bottom of page 2 was talking about.. it is a full replacement for the ecu.. not just a piggyback to the stock unit.. but thats a lot more expensive.

i'd like to see what his results are with megasquirt... for now i am still trying to learn how to tune my engine with a laptop before i do the maf conversion.. all the parts and info are available.. i just need to tune my brain before i can tune my engine.