delete

 

And does anyone know where these vacuum lines are supposed to attach to? Previous owner just has the ends of these laying in engine bay with bolts in the end of hose to plug them.I showed this to the guy at the shop,whether he told his mechanic or his mechanic saw them I dont know,they never mentioned it to me and I forgot to ask them if they knew where they were supposed to go.Since they are right next to EGR valve I doubt mechanic missed them.

 

So I had a friend come over tonight to double check on the timing to make sure I had done it right,which I had,it is in time.While he was here I explained to him it was running better with old stuff on it.So for an experiment while truck was running I unplugged new temp sensor and idle immediately improved to a low steady idle,not a smooth idle but a steady one,unlike the up and down idle in the video.So plugged temp sensor back in and started running like crap.So for next experiment we unplugged top vacuum line to brand new egr valve and once again it immediately starts running better with a steady HIGH idle,again not smooth but steady.So does that mean my new parts are bad? And if they are why hasnt check engine light come back on with the new parts?
I'm so confused and frustrated at this point I want to catch it on fire.And I still dont think this egr crap has anything to do with the misfire,I think thats a separate problem altogether.

 

You most likely have some vacuum and electrical plugs out of place, there is a really good image here somewhere that shows the sensors and a color coded vacuum line diagram.

I thinking it is possible you misunderstood the explaination of the problem when you retrieved it from the mechanic, or just misremembered. Might they have said something like "an exhaust valve leaking".

Get the vacuum and electronics sorted. Then do the suck test, a piece of paper held close to the exhaust pipe if it gets sucked back it's an exhaust valve leaking. Someone will hopefully correct me if I am wrong but I don't think the PAIR system will give a false reading right, maybe it the reed valve is stuck?

 

Look at this thread. for picture of the vac hoses.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...1995-a-297077/

 

Thanks for reply but theres no misunderstanding,nothing was ever said about exhaust valve leaking.This was taken right off their receipt"
" Tech found only trouble code 71 egr temp sensor fault.Tech found cylinder 1 misfiring at this time.Tech found bad egr temp sensor and restricted egr valve.Concerning cylinder 1 misfire,tech found spark plug,plug cable,and distributor providing spark within specification.Tech found fuel inj resistance within spec and good signal to inj from pcm.Tech found good compression and no compression leaks on cylinder 1.Tech recommends replacement of egr valve and temp sensor."

 

Thanks,now I know for sure those 2 hoses laying in the engine bay with bolts plugged in them go to the power steering pump,which I wouldnt think would be that important but who the f knows

 

I think they just cause the engine idle to increase when you using power steering, so no, I do not think they would be that important. Folks block them off when they break the valve on the power steering pump.

 

Nothing personal, no insult intended, ect. I hope you can see where I was coming from there, that sort of stuff does happen. I totally forgot you had a print out and the details of it, it's not my ride I'm not as invested in the outcome.

Pull the distributor cap off, post good photos (well lit and in focus, that means even light of moderate brightness and not blurry). looking for even wear on each terminal, clean and not pitted. If your not certain when the cap rotor and plugs were changed its probably time, if nothing else but than to rule them out and restart the clock..

There isn't a spec for "spark", and the required equipment to test the power output isn't something any shop is going to have short of I dunno NASA or JPL maybe. You'd need a very controlled environment, temperature humidity pressure all make a difference. Not to mention putting that sort of power into a measuring device tends to fry even commercial equipment, need big bucks to get stuff that could tell the voltage and current.. Its generally something that gets eyeballed, yep it has spark and it seems bright, along those lines.

 

No I wasnt insulted,I appreciate the help.I have taken off the distributor and compared it to a brand new one,looks the same.I have tested all the wires with one of those testers you stick between the plug and the wire and it lights up and all tested good and they dont look old,but just to be on the safe side I ordered some new Denso wires a couple days ago and will be here next week sometime.The plugs I have already changed.

 

Went ahead and bought new distributor also.I'm just going to bypass the egr either with the kit or another way and concentrate on fixing the misfire.What is the difference between using the block off kit and just hooking up resistor and just pulling vacuum hose off top of egr valve and blocking it{as seen in pic}

 

And on a separate note,I bought this kit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mw7W-...TBeSLScaVdkdHQ
To do step 2,would the best place to do it to would be this hose coming out of the brake booster?
thanks

 

exhaust pressure forcing the valve open with out the help of the vacuum modulator. Due to a weak spring or high pressure.

 

OK thanks for the reply but not the answer I'm looking for. What I mean is can I just run it like that or do I need to put the block kit on it?
there must be some reason for going to all the trouble to block off those ports as opposed to how I am doing it now so I am wanting to know what the reason is, does it hurt the engine? Or just bad performance? Thanks

 

can you yes, should you no not if you suspect it is compounding your issue. (As explained above if it's there and has an opening it can and will still open, can be come stuck open ect. All the reasons people remove them and use the plates.)

Yes even a perfectly functional egr valve causes damage to various degree's based how the rest of the engine system is operating, it does lower exhaust temperature when functional which is good but at the same time it's putting carbon into the intake which is bad.

Pretty sure I mentioned above to just use a tin can to for a solid gasket to determine if it's the cause or just adding to the problem. *Shrug* last I remember is you performed some work and it got a, you need to get it back to at least running as well as it was originally to continue debugging that issue or your just going in circles IMO

 

Sorry,I can tell youre getting frustrated with me.
Bottom line is it had misfire before taking it to shop,was reading code 71 egr malfaunction.They diagnosed it as bad egr valve and temp sensor and that didnt help made it run worse.I never believed they were related or that would fix it but I listened to the shop.If I take vacuum hose off egr valve at least it will idle.So now it could be vacuum modulator or vsv or something else so I just want to quit trying to figure it out and remove it.
On separate note,started using that Berryman 3 step fuel inj cleaner,first step is remove intake boot and start truck and start spraying cleaner into intake,well my truck will not start with boot off,or if you start it and remove boot it immediately dies,isc this normal for this truck?
thanks

 

you need to use a vacuum line to use throttle body cleaners, because the fuel pump switch is in the VAFM. Try the big one just in front of the throttle plate.

Put the block off plate on, or use a solid gasket. It will rule out the egr system as any issue (except maybe a vacuum leak if it doesn't seal completely).

My point about getting it back to working like it was when you started this adventure still stands. You did say it was running worse didn't you?I expect you got a vacuum line swapped or something not cinched up all the way, should be an easy fix, can't really help with this, only you know what you did exactly.

If the egr valve is open when the coolant temp is cold the bvsv and or vsv is at fault. If at idle modulator is suspect. Seems you have both problems.

Check over the vacuum map sticker under the hood and see if it's using both the bimetal vsv and or electronic one, the electronic one can have the vacuum lines hooked up in multiple ways (three nibs, two hoses ECT) only one is right and it's an easy fix.


And yes I was offended you said I didn't give you the answer you wanted after I went to depth and explained how it would interfere. .. sorry

 

If theres vacuum lines messed up they were like that before.I know the ones going to the egr valve that I disconnected to hook up new one are in the right place.I havent went over the complete vacuum line diagram yet to try and see if any others are hooked up wrong.
I ended up hooking inj cleaner to vacuum line coming out of brake booster just like in their video and it worked great as far as it sucking it into system but unfortunetaly it didnt make it run better.When I took off boot to intake it looked pretty spotless in there already.
Sorry,I could have worded that other post differently,I appreciate the help.

 

Ok I am in the middle of working on it now.Did misfire test by pulling wires off dis cap 1 at a time.In cylinder 4 there was no change when pulling off wire,all the others there were.Pulled plug,checked compression{again} 143 lbs.Replaced plug and new spark plug wire, and cap I just replaced couple days ago.Did test again and same outcome.
Now on to seeing if I can figure out if any vacuum lines are in wrong spot

 

If you have spark and compression and only seeing issues on one cylinder, I would suspect issues with fuel....plugged or bad injector, or injector not getting power.