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what kind of power from mods?

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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 05:58 AM
  #21  
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From: middletown, ny
Sorry i did a search on superchargers and the 3.0 and didn't find many threads, alot of turbo threads.
a supercharger can fit in the engine bay, my friend has a vortech s-trim only a 6-8 lb blower and the head unit can fit but with mods. As far as mods to get it to work all you will need is headers and full exhaust, a fmu (fuel management unit) a paxton or vortech boost a pump ( it connects after your stock pump on the line and pulls more fuel. the hard part is custom fabbing some brackets to hold the head unit down. and lining up the pulleys so the belt can work. I know this is far fetched and i wont be doing it but i think it can be done but at what price and how much real performance? I do know that at 1 lb of boost you get somewhere around 10hp. so 6 lb blower may give you 60 horse, then again a 3.4 swap and some mods may get you more.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 07:32 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by saleen9973
... As far as mods to get it to work... a paxton or vortech boost a pump ( it connects after your stock pump on the line and pulls more fuel.
Going to a bigger fuel pump (like a Walbro 190) has proven (with the 3.4 blower anyway) to be better than a "boost-a-pump" solution.

But really.... you are just dreaming if you think anyone is going to produce a bolt-on blower for the 3.0 12-valve turd. But you can always dream right
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 07:53 AM
  #23  
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Here's a couple pix of a (dirty) 3.0 engine bay:





Where do you propose that you could fit a belt driven centrifugal supercharger like the Paxton or Vortech?

There have been several threads analyzing things in depth - it is VERY possible to do it in theory - the problem becomes doing it in reality. There isn't enough room for the plumbing, so it requires a bunch of custom fab, which had the estimated prices over $2000, making it not cost competitive against a swap.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 09:06 AM
  #24  
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I think if I was serious about putting a supercharger on a 3VZ, I'd first look for a way to adapt the TRD 5VZ unit onto the 3VZ intake manifold. You may need a body lift or a hood scoop to close the hood though.
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 09:23 AM
  #25  
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From: fl
how bout this. im gonna mod my 22re 2.4L 4cyl to run over 300 hp. lol. jk. the 3's dont have much room in the engine bay. but my 2.4 has plenty of room. and i havent even moved anything around, cause if i rly wanted to i could drop a couple of things and move others and free up a TON of room. can you see my engine runnin with a supercharger? maybe a nice 6lb blower. lmao yea boi
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #26  
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The 5vz-fe's don't have THAT much more room in the engine bay than 3vze equipped trucks. I think if you did a 1" BL at a maximum, you'd have no problem fitting a S/C in there.

But then wouldn't there be issues with getting the TRD S/C to work with the 3vze's computer?
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 01:33 PM
  #27  
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From: middletown, ny
Yeah your right i just took another look under my hood and trying to stuff a paxton or vortech would be very tough. I was just dreamin anyway
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 07:08 PM
  #28  
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IMHO, it's MUCH more reasonable to build a 22RE for 300HP than a 3VZE...
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 07:15 PM
  #29  
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Um, what makes it more reasonable?
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 07:18 PM
  #30  
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You start with an engine with a good power/economy ratio

Factory support

Aftermarket support

Space in the engine bay

The 22RE is the 22nd iteration of a block - the 3VZE is only the third. Is it any surprise it's bulletproof?
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 08:02 PM
  #31  
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To get 300 HP out of an engine with older technology would be tough. Even theorhetically boosting it would be tough to get 300 HP out of it me thinks.
Even if you could get it to 200 HP naturally aspirated, and then you add a turbo or supercharger, you're still gonna be pulling teeth to try and get to 300HP unless you run huge boost or something.

Also, you could hit 300 HP but what's your torque gonna be like in the mean time? With only 2.4 liters of displacement, maybe what, 200-225 foot pounds, tops?

Look at the 2.7 liter in 95.5-04 Tacos. There is a TRD S/C for that, and headers, and exhaust systems, intake systems. Are their cams for it as well? I think someone said the 2.7 supercharged performs about as well as a stock 3.4 or maybe a bit better. So what more is headers, cams, and an exhaust going to give you in this regard if you tack them on top of a supercharger? I think you would need extensive irreversibile modification.

And I still don't buy your reasoning as to why you'd pick one over the other. But that's just me personally.

Another thing is to me it's counter-intutitive to take an engine like the 22RE, which has it's claim to fame of being reliable and good gas mileage, and try to turn it into something it's not. I mean how reliable would the thing be then pushing 300 HP? There are way better engines to work with that can still do it and be reliable. I would go to a 3.4 in this instance. Those engines are known to be fairly reliable when combined with the TRD S/C as long as you maintain everything.

Last edited by CoedNaked; Mar 25, 2007 at 08:04 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 06:59 AM
  #32  
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http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1

Don't be afraid of the swap. If you can do all the motor removal and install you were planning to do on the 3.0 then you have enough ability to do the swap. see above link to my swap. You will be sorry if you spend the money on the 3.0. Your friends will be sorry if you spend the money on the 3.4 swap because you will leave them behind. You can buy a plug-n-play harness to take care of the harness changes. It is nearly brainless it is so easy.

P.S. I have a Turbocharger kit on the way for install this summer on my 3.4 swap.

Last edited by Kutter; Mar 29, 2007 at 07:04 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 11:52 AM
  #33  
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From: Puna, HI
Originally Posted by Kutter
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1

Don't be afraid of the swap. If you can do all the motor removal and install you were planning to do on the 3.0 then you have enough ability to do the swap. see above link to my swap. You will be sorry if you spend the money on the 3.0. Your friends will be sorry if you spend the money on the 3.4 swap because you will leave them behind. You can buy a plug-n-play harness to take care of the harness changes. It is nearly brainless it is so easy.

P.S. I have a Turbocharger kit on the way for install this summer on my 3.4 swap.
very well done swap! hmmm...how much did it cost to do the swap? could you give a break down on everything? if you don't mind
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 03:19 PM
  #34  
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From: Kansas
Originally Posted by christanto
very well done swap! hmmm...how much did it cost to do the swap? could you give a break down on everything? if you don't mind
1999 4x4 Tacoma 5 speed 5vzfe engine complete with intake manifold, throttle body, Ignitor, coils and plug wires, flywheel, accessory mounting brackets and hardware, Evap. canister and VSV switches, engine wire harness, battery wire harness, ECU, $1600.00 Thing not included on engine purchase No accessories, No starter, no intake ducting to MAF, no exhaust manifolds.

Evap pressure switch $5

2002 3.4 tubular exhaust manifolds $90

1999 MAF new $80 after $50 core refund. I happened to have a MAF from a 1997 auto 2wd 3.4 4Runner laying around and the parts store took it as the core.

Plug wires new $40

Plugs new from dealer About $12 for 6

2002 3.4 tubular exhaust crossover $20 from a friends junk yard.

Resurface 3.4 flywheel $25

Oil filter Wix premium About $6

Injen intake system $250 including shipping.

Misc exhaust piping $40. I already had a large exhaust installed from before.

Conversion wire harness from ORS.com $695 including shipping. I was grumbling about the price but it was so nice to just plug it in and have the engine fire after only 5 seconds of cranking. Worth the price! IMHO

Misc belts, hoses, metal for brackets, nuts, bolts, electrical conduit, tapes, solder, stock exhaust gaskets, about $200

Clutch kit new stock not Toyota $325

Driveshaft U-joints 2 each $106. HEhehehehe. After the install I trashed both of the old u-joint doing burnouts on dry pavement. They were mostly old anyway.

$120 2" body lift to allow clearance for the 3.4 intake

$140 for 1" short throw shifter to bring the shifter back up and make it clear the floor cutout better after the body lift. $85 to have a new spacer block fabbed because the one in the kit did not work for my truck. See post writeup for details. New block is 1.190" tall

$2 for pack of 5 each 10K ohm resistors. 1 resistor is needed to install to make the tach work right with the 3.4 ignitor signal. See swap writeup.

$65 Lift Lips to close out the wheel wells after the body lift.

$100 Walbro 190 LPM fuel pump (not required for swap, I put it in for the turbo I am installing this summer)

Used accessories from 3.0 see writeup for details.

Total $3921.00 Worth every penny!!!!!
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