During my timing chain kit, oil and water pump install......I've had my valves adjusted.
My question.

When the engine is cold, this sound isn't there, when it's warm, it's there.




Here is a video,, REmember, this video is right after a valve adjustment... ......mind you i have more power then before, and no sign's of bent valves or any nastyness like that. The exhaust valves were initailly out of spec, too tight, brought them back to .012.... when she was good and hot. Timing is fine, noise is not commig from there. This engine is strong and won't let me down, just trying to narrow down what this is..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoHv9H5WBTY

 

.0008 or .008?

 

Could be something else too.

 

.008 Sorry...

 

damn thats big

 

i had an 0,001 off issue and it really dont matter

 

but really i cant comment on that cause when i did mine i bough some new shims ,cost me 200bux for 11 of hem one was good saved me about 13 to 15 bux,toyota stealership.

 

What's big? going from .008 to .010? Be specific if you can man i'm green at engines...lol

 

i meen 0.008 OFF ,if you prefer OUT OF THE LIMIT.
and by the way i never said that i knew alot,

 

I didn't imply you knew alot, but check out the vid i added to my first post...

stressfull stuff man...

 

ishh ,was that noise always there,or it just poped out recently?
that noise cant be good,i wich i new about 4cyl,i only did a top end on my 3.0.

 

if the gap is too big you'll get a louder tapping noise, and a loss of power due to the valves not opening all the way

 

Well for tommorows adjustment, i'm taking a realy good pair of feeler gauges... and following the advice of the boys on the forums that have done it.....

The valve or set of rocker arms that are loose and tapping, are towards the front , just below the valve cover...and above the timing chain housing.

 

holy crap, that sounds damaging. have you checked your valves yourself?
from the video, it is coming from the top, but i"ve been in and out on my val. adj. and never heard anything like that.......
maybe he didn't have the engine hot when he adjusted the valves!
maybe one of the adj. nuts wasn't tightened
you need to tear the cover off of that and figure it out.
remember to set tdc cyl. #1
i hate to hear a sic toy
lonestar

 

[QUOTE=lonestar;50569945]holy crap, that sounds damaging. have you checked your valves yourself?
from the video, it is coming from the top, but i"ve been in and out on my val. adj. and never heard anything like that.......
maybe he didn't have the engine hot when he adjusted the valves!


All i know is that there loose, The engine valves are not bent becuase i have excellent compression and accelleration, and the sound isn't there at all after i give it gass........ When i give it gass the sound is gone, GONE and the engine sounds smooooooth as.. well, it's tight, Fast and goes the gears just fine, only at idle and when rolling to a stop i hear this....

Lets hear some experiances with valves boys come on ....lol (:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoHv9H5WBTY

 

I need the input guys keep the info comming...

 

ok, the final verdict on this noise.......... I'm not going to worry about it, the exhaust valves were very tight out of spec, there adjusted in spec now, back to .012 ..... i have lot's of power and oil press is right on the money....

I'm not going to put my valves out of limit's to get rid of this sound... the hell with it, the 22RE is tuff as nails and i'll post a thread if somthing truely awfull happens.


Thanks for the help everyone....

Here is a pic of my 22RE with the valve cover off, and the new timing chain kit installed.

 

Ok,

Hears the deal, when i got my timing chain done, we changed the oil.
The 4Runner as far as i know, was alway's using 5W-30 oil. When we used
10W-30 instead .... the engine get's louder after it warms up. You can't hear it when it's cold but when she warms up she get's that diesil like sound to her and it's only realy when it's idleling or at very low speeds....

There are no issues with the engine/valves/etc as far as i know.


Do you think if i change back to the 5W-30 "non-syn" oil the sound will go away??

Has anyone had a simalar experiance????

 

You really don't want your valves tighter than spec because they might burn, and leak compression. Your noise could be a worn rocker, loose wrist pin, piston slap...
Mine is all adjusted, but it makes all kinds of different noises as it warms up, but it runs GREAT.

 

Well, from what I'm reading here you set the valves at .008 and .012 hot, right? If so then that is why it is loud because that should be what they are set at cold. I just did the timing chain on my pickup and adjusted the valves like that and they were still loud. I read a lot of posts from other people and many have had success setting them at .007 and .009 cold. I readjusted mine Saturday and it took care of almost all of the noise and runs a lot better. You may want to readjust yours because if you're using those tolerances hot then that is wayyy too much clearance.

Also, it's hard to tell from the vid but there may be some chain noise in there too. Was the chain good and tight when you put it back together? If someone decked the head at some point that can cause slack in the chain which will give you noise. I'd worry about the valves first since they are easier to do (obviously).

Oh, and 5w30 is thinner when cold than 10w30 (the first number is cold viscosity, second is hot). You can try 10w40 as it's slightly thicker when hot (I've used 20w50 in really hot summers before too).