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What EVERYONE should know about their truck & the 3VZE

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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

What EVERYONE should know about their truck & the 3VZE

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Old 03-26-2010, 07:34 PM
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Great post. I wonder if on the transfer case section, is what's wrong with mine. I bought mine two months ago and the 4wd doesn't work, and I think the old owner never went off road. The thing is I don't want to go into some slippery mud to try to get the 4wd to work and it not work and I get stuck.
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jerbou71 View Post
Great post. I wonder if on the transfer case section, is what's wrong with mine. I bought mine two months ago and the 4wd doesn't work, and I think the old owner never went off road. The thing is I don't want to go into some slippery mud to try to get the 4wd to work and it not work and I get stuck.
I'm sorry, I missed your reply. If you're trying to get a transfer case to engage 4wd after the vehicle was driven in 4wd on dry pavement, you don't need to be in a mud pit - just a surface that allows some slip like a gravel or dirt road. Put the selector in 4 high and just drive forward and backward 8-10 feet or so, back and forth, a bunch of times. That will sometimes free it up. That technique saved a trip into the Maze in Canyonlands some years back. We got to the 4wd portion and my buddy's 4Runner wouldn't go into 4wd. It took about 20 times forward and backward over some sand, but eventually it engaged. Once free, it seems to do fine afterward, as long as you don't engage 4wd on a surface with good traction again.

Last edited by sb5walker; 04-03-2010 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 04-03-2010, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by sb5walker View Post
I'm sorry, I missed your reply. If you're are trying to get a transfer case to engage 4wd after the vehicle was driven in 4wd on dry pavement, you don't need to be in a mud pit - just a surface that allows some slip like a gravel or dirt road. Put the selector in 4 high and just drive forward and backward 8-10 feet or so, back and forth, a bunch of times. That will sometimes free it up. That technique saved a trip into the Maze in Canyonlands some years back. We got to the 4wd portion and my buddy's 4Runner wouldn't go into 4wd. It took about 20 times forward and backward over some sand, but eventually it engaged. Once free, it seems to do fine afterward, as long as you don't engage 4wd on a surface with good traction again.

Now when your buddys wouldn't engage did the 4wd light come on, on the dash even before it started working? Because mine won't go into 4wd and the light won't come on. And I have al ready looked at the ADD system and it is working.
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Old 04-03-2010, 08:42 AM
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No, the light didn't come on. When it finally engaged, the light came on.
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:58 AM
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Cool thanks for the info I'll try that.
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:11 PM
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Thanks for the info! Wish I had read it earlier, I just dumped $30 worth of GL-5 gear oil in my transmission, in hopes that it would shift smoother. Guess I'll have to change it again for GL-4.
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Old 04-04-2010, 04:12 PM
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Good info, but the current OEM Toyota filters are pretty crappy compared to a Napa Gold (Wix), or Perolator. There's a variety of decent ones out there, the current offering of OEMs are not among them. (they changed a little while back, they used to be good)
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Old 04-04-2010, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DupermanDave View Post
Not to be a stickler, but is there proof for such statements as the OEM plug wires versus aftermarket? How do you judge such a thing?

We need a sticky like this for the 22re
To help clarify. If your wires are ok then good. However, I am a Lexus tech and have replaced many sets of aftermarket plug wires which were causing misfires. I have seen them arc to the engine after a light mist with water. If you do not have any misfires then you are ok but it is not worth the risk if you are in the market for new wires.
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:57 PM
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Great post. Always something new to learn! Im bookmarking this one.
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by shaeff View Post
Good info, but the current OEM Toyota filters are pretty crappy compared to a Napa Gold (Wix), or Perolator. There's a variety of decent ones out there, the current offering of OEMs are not among them. (they changed a little while back, they used to be good)
I agree with you that Purolator filters are excellent - if you are talking about the PureONE model. Those have the highest filtering efficiency ratings of any filter I could find, and their flow is excellent, due to their excellent synthetic media.

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I'm afraid I have to very much disagree with you on the Wix/Napa Gold, however. I had always read great things about them, but when I actually checked out their performance, I found that they perform quite poorly.

For example, the PureONE efficiency is awesome:

25 microns - 100%
20 microns - 99.9%
15 microns - 99.2%
10 microns - 92.8%
5 microns - 51.3%

Try to find another filter that traps 50% of 5 micron particles, or 100 percent of 25 micron!

The Wix on the other hand, are not even in the same ballpark:

The efficiency specs on the Toyota 90915-YZZD1-sized Wix 51348 are beta ratio 2/20=21/37. That's 50% of 21 micron particles (compare to the PureONEs 99.9% of 20 micron particles) and 95% of 37 micron particles. That's pretty bad - based on those specs they probably trap almost none of the 10 micron particles, and almost all filters trap some of those.

The filter media of the Wix/Napa is paper and glass. The paper media is no doubt the cause of the poor filtering efficiency, and I really don't like the idea of using a filter that has glass fibers! It would seem inevitable that some of them would be loose or become dislodged in use. Imagine what would happen as glass particles find their way into bearings.

The other problem with the Wix/Napa is that the bypass/anti-drainback valve designs take up so much room that in the compact size the total filter media area is only 104 square inches. Compare that to the Toyota 90915-YZZD1 which is the same size externally: it has 160 square inches. That's a big difference. The reason the Toyota filter has so much more area is that they have a very clever design: instead of glueing end caps on both ends, the ends are thermally bonded. Also, the center core diameter is smaller, giving a longer media length. As a result they blow away EVERY aftermarket filter of the same size:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/toyota.html



Unfortunately, I've been unable to find any filtering efficiency specs on the Toyota filters, but according to this thread their media consists of resin-impregnated synthetic and natural fibers. They must have a preponderance of synthetic fibers because the ends are thermally bonded. Since all of the filters with synthetic media have much better efficiency and flow specs than the paper filters, I think it's a pretty good bet that the Toyota filters perform well, and certainly outperform the Wix/NAPA. I agree that the overall quality of the filters is less than the old Japanese Denso models, but their clever design and probably excellent media make them a good choice, imo.

Regardless of what brand/model filter you choose, I recommend using the taller size, which has more filtering area, giving better flow and longer service life. The taller size is the same diameter as the compact Toyota 90915-YZZD1. The tall filters fit both the 22re & 3vze:

Toyota 90915-YZZD3 (203 sq in, synthetic/natural blend media)



and the Purolator PureONE PL20195 (213 sq in, synthetic media)



To find an aftermarket filter of the taller size, just look up the filter for a Ford 3.8L V6. Easiest is to search on a 2001 Ford Windstar, since it only came with the 3.8 that year. (Sometimes Windstars are listed under "Ford" and sometimes under "Ford Trucks".)

If you really want to use the compact-sized filter, the ONLY one you should consider is the 160 sq in Toyota. All the aftermarkets in that size have inadequate filtering media area and will clog much sooner, leading to the oil being forced through the bypass valve. Since most of those valves are at the top of the filter, the bypassing oil will run along the pleats, washing much of the previously-filtered particles back into the engine.

There's a ton more oil filter info in this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...filter-190242/

Last edited by sb5walker; 05-06-2010 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:06 AM
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I was just now copy and pasting this so I can print it out and keep in my truck with my Chilton repair manual at all times. Just thought I'd throw in that it takes up 5.5 pages of a Word document. GREAT write-up!
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:30 AM
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Nice post. I need to replace my distributer I think. I keep getting a code 14 and it has a rough idle. Also I have used atohausaz.com a lot and they have been great, free ups ground on all orders oveer $50.
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:40 AM
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I had wanted to print this for myself. I took it an extra mile so anyone can have the original post in their hand in a neat format.

Click here to download or print this post.
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Old 04-08-2010, 08:51 PM
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Perfomance Chips

Has anyone checked into or used a performance chip? www.rs4performance.com offers two types of chips for 4runners 1990-2010 and tacos 1995-2010, 1 for higher hp and torque and one for improved gas mileage. If anyone has any opinions on these I would love to here them!
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Old 04-09-2010, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Martys954runner View Post
Has anyone checked into or used a performance chip? www.rs4performance.com offers two types of chips for 4runners 1990-2010 and tacos 1995-2010, 1 for higher hp and torque and one for improved gas mileage. If anyone has any opinions on these I would love to here them!
This from a professional tech who has heavily modified his 22re and uses a MegasquirtII engine control computer:
Originally Posted by Vicoor
First, the "chip" is soldered in place on a toyota and the whole ecm would have to go in to get reprogramed.

And really this is not going to gain much, unless, you do other modifications such as porting, cam, larger injectors, etc...

and then it needs to be programed to match the specific conditions and modifications to get the most out of it.

those out of the box chips are not really worth it. If you go to the lengths to do real modifications then you should get a programmable engine management.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...17#post2213517
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:48 AM
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Great stuff. I have had an experience with the TPS causing poor running and this post encourages me to keep adjusting it. Very finicky but you can pull the TB and do the adjusting on the bench. Reminds me to to do the plugs and wires and discap I guess, too.
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:58 AM
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Great write up!! I am printing this out as well.
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Old 07-22-2010, 02:01 PM
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Printed it and just wanna say thanks! Awesome post!
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:49 PM
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Great post! Thanks for sharing.

One thing though... you don't want to put Armor All on anything unless you DO want it to crack. It's main ingredient is kerosean which dries out vynil and plastic. Basically use something to condition your plastic and vynil from one of the other reputable manufacturers.
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MortonPhotographic View Post
Great post! Thanks for sharing.

One thing though... you don't want to put Armor All on anything unless you DO want it to crack. It's main ingredient is kerosean which dries out vynil and plastic. Basically use something to condition your plastic and vynil from one of the other reputable manufacturers.

Pretty sure it doesn't have kerosene in it. From Armor All FAQ:

What are the ingredients in Armor AllŪ Protectants? Do they include silicone, alcohol, ultraviolet inhibitors and petroleum distillates?

Armor AllŪ Leather Care contains lanolin and natural moisturizers, and UV inhibitors. Armor AllŪ Leather Care Protectant Spray and Leather Wipes contain water-based silicone emulsions, surfactants, and ultraviolet light inhibitors. Armor AllŪ Original Shine Protectant contains water-based silicone emulsions, surfactants, and ultraviolet light inhibitors, humectants, dispersants and gloss enhancers. Armor AllŪ Ultimate Clean Protectant contains water-based silicone emulsions, surfactants, ultraviolet light inhibitors and a fragrance.

Remember, water and oil don't mix well, there are water based silicone emulsions, so I'm betting those UV inhibitors aren't oil based. Who told you there was kerosene in it?

What are the ingredients in Armor AllŪ cleaners? Do they contain silicone, alcohol or chemical solvents?
Armor AllŪ Auto Glass Cleaner contains propylene glycol ether, isopropanol and surfactants. Armor AllŪ Multi-Purpose Cleaner contains surfactants, n-propoxypropanol and builders. Armor AllŪ Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner contains surfactants, n-propoxypropanol builders and isobutene.

These are the cleaners, alcohol based mostly. Isobutene is a hydrocarbon based chemical, but not kerosene.

Last edited by dsleggett; 08-03-2010 at 12:42 PM.
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