Bikertrash3531

Since i bought my runner 2 weeks ago it starts up easily but idles really high @2000 rpm during warm up and then it goes to throttling up and down and then finally levels out a little low @650 rpm. from start up to level low idle is about 10 minutes. Im thinking Idle air control (is it equipped with one?) or TPS. Any thoughts here?
Last night i took about a 200 mile trip and my runner started occasionally stuttering a bit going down the highway. it does it for about a second at a time. its like it looses spark or fuel i cant tell. the obvious suspects i guess would be in the ignition or fuel pump. But upon inspection i noticed 1. I have no Cat Converter, 2. No o2 sensor. I think I've found the plug for the o2 but have no idea where the sensor itself is installed. I cant find the bung for it anywhere. i assumed it was in the manifold but no dice. Bottom line is Im getting 15Mpg on the hwy, running rich (i assume this is default for no o2 signal), and running illegal. I will try and get a pic of the possible o2 plug and maybe someone can identify it for me.
Before some one tells me to get a manual, I've tried, not one of the parts store around here can get one. plus I've developed a distrust in them as the info is often very vague.

One last question. Is there any kind of Ignition control module that will let the ecu advance and retard ignition during given inputs? Any tips or tricks with the Ignition that will be beneficial as far as power and economy?

Thanks for any input

BT

bjlambert

Unplug your TPS! mine was the same, but it was the opposite, the avg. RPMs was about 400-500, it was terrible. Since I did, my 22re doesn't even spit. But as for the 02 sensor, it is supposed to be on the pipe right next to the transfer case in the transmission, maybe someone cut out the O2 altogether?

sebastianholmes

The greatest manual you could ever find....

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

Bikertrash3531

So your saying to unplug the Ecu's only sensor that will tell it where the throttle is so that it can accurately calculate fuel flow??? it may work but i think it will bring about undesirable results. Also are you saying that your Mpg's went back up as well? i got a little confused with " mine was the same, but it was the opposite, the avg."

@sebastianholmes. Thanks for that link. I'm checking it out right now.

bjlambert

Biker, what I mean is that I was in a similar situation, except my average RPMs were around 400-500 at idle, and would jump and spit and sputter, but exactly as you stated, yes I did unplug the only sensor telling my computer where my throttle is positioned. But as many people on this wonderful site will undoubtedly tell you, unplugging the TPS will be the three second fix in many cases. I even tried adjusting my tps without any luck, so unplugging it was the fix. Don't bash it until you try it! You seem to be at the least informed about your vehicle, just give it a try.

bjlambert

Oh, and a new O2 sensor may help too!

Bikertrash3531

I wasnt trying to bash unplugging the TPS. I know i dont know much about this truck but it did seem a little illogical to unplug it. I'm sure engine management systems vary from make to make. I'm used to dealing with Fords and i know if you unplug the TPS it will throw a code, CEL, and run like crap. I will apologize for being skeptical but i depend on this rig too much to do something that will slow me down in the future.

bjlambert

I didn't mean to insult you, I meant you seem like you DO know your stuff. True, fords do not like having their sensors unplugged but yota's can be contrary. It's only two seconds to unplug, and two more to plug it back in if you're not pleased with the result. Skepticism is a great thing, but it won't hurt, I assure you. Just make sure you keep the right foot to the floor upon starting, or yes, it will flood.

Bikertrash3531

Thanks for the help guys! @ bjlambert. i know you were not trying to insult me, no offence taken. i will try it and see what happens, i mean really its worth a shot.
It seems toyota o2 sensors are different than the rest. I have never seen a "housing" on the exhaust pipe for the o2, just a threaded "bung" and it seems i need that housing to install one. so i gotta do my homework and find that housing or make one (since i work in a CNC machine shop) or find a universal and do some wire work. any suggestions?

benny91

There is an idle air control screw on the intake. It's about the size of a dime with a flat screw on the top. You can't miss it. The surging comes from the idle being too high. Turn that screw to lower the idle and That will that that problem. I'd also recommend running some Seafoam through the brake booster. I did it and boy does it smooth things out.

Bikertrash3531

I have some reservations running seafoam through the brake booster because of the Isopropyl alcohol that's in it. However, i don't mind running it in the crankcase. I never run it in the fuel tank because of the hygroscopic nature of alcohol. 10% of the fuel around here is ethanol and i dont want to add anymore to the tank. There is a product that i run in my bike regularly and have run in my vehicles regularly its called Startron. no alcohol. Its baiscally white gas (coleman fuel) and a biological enzyme.
If i turn that screw what should i set the idle at? I assume that it needs to be set at running temp, correct?

benny91

IIRC the correct idle RPM is 800. The computer senses too high of an idle and starts to cut the fuel, hence the surging. I'd set it warmed up. That will allow the engine to run at slightly higher RPMs when cold without surging.

Bikertrash3531

Thanks for the info. I will work on it as soon as the weather gets a little better. i am also looking for an upper intake. I talked to the P.O of the runner and when he took off the Tb he noticed quite a build up. A week ago he gave me a lower intake because of a broken bolt in the thermostat housing and it had a bunch of build up in it. So i had it blasted and it looks great. when i get another upper i plan to do the same and see how it works. So i may have to reset the idle air again when the new intakes go on.

combatcarl

Before getting too nutty with disconnecting and reconnecting things, did you check simple things like vacuum leaks? Unmetered airflow will cause high/surging idles as well. And to my knowledge, disconnecting TPS is more to diagnose an issue. Not a fix. Its designed to be connected and working. On mine, 22RE, there is an O2 mount on the manifold, but isn't used, the O2 is actually located just upstream of the cat's location.

Bikertrash3531

There isn't an o2 location on the manifold and there is a long pipe welded in place of the cat. since i cant find the o2 flange anywhere on the pipe i assume it was taken out when they took the cat out. I've researched o2 sensors on the net and the plugs seem to match the unplugged sensor i have under the hood. right now im looking for a flange to take to the muffler shop and a cat and have things done right. Does that factory emission utilize an Air Injection Reactor and a pipe that feeds air to the cat? I have checked for vacuum leaks and haven't noticed any. I plan on using some either to spray around the lines to see if there is any change in idle to find any. as for the TPS the P.O gave me one he had in case i needed it. if it doesnt change anything i will try a new one.

combatcarl

Wow. Who takes their O2 sensor out? Ok. I know I fudged around chasing a vac leak for about a week once. Does your intake tubing or manifold have any leaks? Any CEL? If so pulling codes is a snap and should point in a good direction. Other than that, adjusting idle and adjusting/replacing TPS may be the next direction. Timing may be affected by TPS/idle adjustments so it may take playing with it for a little bit to get it all set. That FSM link should cover all your testing and setup issues.

combatcarl

Just thought of it, but water temp sensor couldn't hurt to test, either.

Bikertrash3531

No i dont have my CEL ON. I know it works because it comes on if i turn the key and not start the engine. Its weird that it doesnt come on considering there is not an o2 sensor hooked up.

combatcarl

Maybe there's a stored code, even w/o your light on? But no o2 could be most of your problem...the PO having said he removed TB before sale makes me think TPS or TB issues. Good gasket/seal around it?

Could be if he cleaned TB, he may have messed up TPS if he wasn't careful...

Bikertrash3531

The truck didnt run when he got it. Basically did a compresion check and started wrenching. Really it runs pretty good minus the stumbling and the fuel mileage. He has already replaced numerous items. Timing chain, head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake and tb gaskets, water pump, etc. The only reason he sold it was his wife told him to sell the runner or his BMW M5. He decided to keep the beamer. Im thinking that with new sensors, blasted intakes it should run like new. I will check for stored codes and see what i come up with.