If you have coolant in your vacuum lines, my first suspicion would be the coolant sensor that is in the throttle body. It has a rubber diaphragm that if it ruptures, puts coolant directly into the intake manifold.

 

Chiltons is a wast of time; download the FSM (links in my signature).

 

i just rebuilt my 3.0 and I have one warning for you..... DO NOT USE FELPRO GASKETS.

I got the DNJ From rock auto and having them side by side the DNJ kit was not only cheaper, but way better built. got it all back together and took off the EGR (I dont have air care here.... too many tree's lol) truck runs way way better now.
Now something to think about.. how much are you willing to spend on the rebuild? I saw a couple threads which I will try and find links for tomorrow. At least one from 2004 that stated that the toyota camry 3vz-fe double overhead cam head, pistons fit on-top of the original block and using a 5vz intake you get a great upgrade. I was about halfway through the thread when my cat unplugged my laptop.
Personally I would rather upgrade the whole motor to a 1uzfe from a sc400. lextreme.com should show you everything you need. I will include that thread as well. I am sure I am gonna hear back on this post lol... everyone has their opinions


ps. DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS Part # HGS950
and for about 300 bucks to your door you can have head studs instead of those original bolts.

 

Where is this located at? Are you talking about the one located right up against the firewall coolant temp sensor?

 

got the plenum off today started to inspect everything, the plenum gasket was brittle and broke into 12 peices and when i started to pull the fuel rails i noticed to holes in the intake manifold in between the #2 and #4 injectors and they dont look factory ha.

 

There are two "Bypass Coolant Hoses" that run coolant through the TB (something to do with coolant temp & warming up the TB plus maybe tells ECU the engine is warm & to change mixture?).

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/93throttle.pdf

 

Does anyone know anything about the holes I found in my intake?

 

How about some pics??

 

ya, def need some pix bro... We cant even begin to guess without knowing what holes ur talkin about ...

 

Ok I'll get some in the am,IPhones are lame it won't let you upload pictures onto any Internet forum not even Craigslist

 

pulled the intake off today, the gaskets appeared to be metal with no rubber or anything like it had deteriorated, and as you can see in the pictures most of the holes in the heads are pretty clean as if water had been running threw it,when i unbolted the intake the bolts were not very tight at all,the valve cover bolts were probably tighter then the intake bolts and the second to last bolt up against the firewall on the driver said was probably hand tight..from how clean everything looks in the valley it seems to me that it is a intake gasket..also the little peice that bolts on top of the intake that has all of the sensors up against the firewall in it had no gasket just gasket maker,and i also noticed that the passenger side cam pulley was on backwards because the arrow and lip on the pulley is not facing front lol...heres some pics hoping to get some feedback before i continue.

 

in the picture of me pointing is the "hole" in the intake i seen,it looks like a couple little chanels that dont get covered up by the intake so they are exposed.....

 

can take more pics if needed

 

I am looking at the pictures on my phone and from what you say it sounds like you had someone forget to do up the intake bolts when resembling the engine.
Personally since the gear was on backwards and the gaskets were siliconed I would be pulling the heads just to see what else they didn't do right. Plus you can eliminate the rear crossover pipe at the same time to make sure the head doesn't blow again.
I don't trust people playing in my engine bay. forgetting to tighten bolts is a signal they were playing all day LOL

 

That channel is where the knock sensor wire runs and usually has a rubber plug on the other side, but it's not important to have plugged as it goes nowhere and the top of the block is sealed. It would just keep gunk out of the top of your engine block.

 

I knew I forgot to put something in my post. thanks rusty for filling in my gap of information. One day shortly when I find a pickup to mid I will upgrade my phone as well so I can read what I am gonna post lol
Anyone agree about redoing the headgaskets due to the intakes condition?
Btw... Once in there, clean up the motor since you have access makes it look Purdy

 

yeah the intake bolts really got me thinking so i have some time off coming up at work and the forcast says "sunny" weather so it looks like the heads will be coming off,going to have to pick up more zip loc bags because ive already used all mine keeping all the bolts labeled lol

 

By the time you have it all torn down it's worth it to throw some new head gaskets in anyway. My two cents worth. Then you have it all new and you know it's good to go. And x2 on cleaning it all, that aluminum shines up nice and looks great, plus it's much nicer to work on a clean engine!!

 

I put most of my bolts back in the items I took them out of or off of. No remembering where things go. Only ones I had to bag were manifold bolts and head bolts.

What gasket kit did you get?

Rock auto has a great kit for under 100 bucks for the top end rebuild.

And in case you want to make it a super motor that is never gonna blow another gasket, arp does make head studs. You have to fully disconnect the exhaust manifolds to get the head studs to work though. Makes for more accurate head torque. I figured at my cost it was around 230 bucks for the studs and nuts with washers.
Don't forget to get the heads decked and checked for cracks, leak down test on the valves and new valve seals put in (from the kit) if they don't charge that Mick to have it done have the heads ported and polished and have the intake preyed cleaned and polished. It will help with power and performance once you get it back together. keeping in mind that valves would also help but could cost more then the build is worth.....

Sorry for rambling options and advice. Just things I have seen done and it did a lot

 

thanks for all the advice guys i have a guy who builds sprint car motors who also did my last set of heads for my k5 blazer so i will talk with him and let him know what i want done,he usually gives me a good deal...something else i wanted to touch on was the fact that i messed up my timing when i took this apart as in i pulled the timing belt tensioner off before putting it on tdc or marking the cam gears in to the relation of the belt so im kinda stumped on getting it back on time when i put it back together,im guessing there is a procedure and people have told me its a pain in the ass but it cant be any different than breaking a timing belt. i guess my lack of patience and lack of sleep got the best of me.