I have and 85 4x4, 22r with a weber 32/36 I belive?? I know its a weber!! No egr or emmissions stuff..Just did a HG job bout two weeks ago. new timing chain waterpump fuel filter all new gaskets and the godies. The truck idles fine and has no stumbiling or hesitation in neutral. When i go to drive it takes off good from idle and about 2k (i dont have tac so im going off sound) it feels like it falls flat, give more gas itl go and then into 2nd gear it will go and have a hesitation and into third same it runs fine i just need help fine tuning the carb i think?? what you guys think.. Thank you

 

anybody got any ideas??

 

my .02 - webers are nice, the easiest thing to do is rebuild it. shouldn't cost much, and replacing all the o-rings and needles may solve the problem. just count revolutions on adjusting screws before you tear it apart. someone else may have the answer, but you can screw around forever trying to isolate the problem, and a simple rebuild will catch it. how many miles on the carb, do you know? was this an issue before you did the HG?
look at this as well: http://www.mgexperience.net/article/3236dgev.html especially the notes at the bottom.

 

I have the same carb on my one of my bug motors. These things are probably the most simple carbs to rebuild. There's not really anything to them. Even if your not a carb guy, you should be able to just take it apart and see if you find anything wrong. Good luck!

 

got no idea how many miles on carb 227k on truck not much on rebuild the adapter says redline on it drove it today ran ok just has stumbling in the throtle iv been having probs wit t sats and im runing a 180 right now seems to work. it wont get to were it should on the temp gauge bout 1/4 between half and cold line.. I pulled the one of the plugs tonight and it is grayish white looked good maybe a litle lean but not rich or fouled.. im bout ready to ditch this carb and go to a stock one. ive only had the truck a month and had to do a hg and now this.. my timing is a little jumpy at idle under the light and it does advance under throttle.. the carb has one vac output on it and since i have no emmisions stuff can i get rid of that vac rail thingey and just hook the outer advance on the dissy to the card and plug the inner on the dissy?? thanks sorry bout the long post

 

put a timing light on the truck and make sure its in time, could be why it falls on its face, and running cool on the temp too, just an idea. also check for burnt plug wires. have had this happen to me, and it was timing.

 

light showes ok just about even with the end of the timing marks onthe oil pump on the left side... its a bit jumpy at idle just switched the plug wires with some off my brothers 87 and the same i drilled a 195 t stat and im gona try that i think the carb might be out of tune tho to?? I might try to advance the timing a little tomorow we will see how far to the left are you guys runnin

 

To prepare for the adjustment, ensure that all other systems on your vehicle (airflow, fuel pressure, idle rpm, etc.) are operating properly. Though not necessary to set ignition timing, this would be an ideal point to replace your spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs. Connect the timing light (and tachometer, if used) to your vehicle's battery and No. 1 spark plug wire per the manufacturer's instructions. Check the vehicle specifications to determine the proper timing advance (often noted on a sticker on the underside of the hood), read in "degrees before top dead center" at a particular rpm. In this case the recommended advance is five degrees at a 750-rpm idle. Being very careful to avoid entanglement with moving belts and pulleys, start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature and specified rpm. Direct the timing light to the main crank pulley, and observe where the timing mark on the pulley falls compared to the degree tab on the front of the engine. If the marks line up properly, the ignition timing is correct and no adjustment is necessary. If not, your engine's power and mileage have likely suffered and adjustment is required.

Distributor

Looking near the base of the distributor housing, find the distributor lockdown bolt. Loosen the bolt just enough so that the distributor can be slowly rotated by hand. You may want to scribe match-marks on the housing and head (or intake depending on engine type), so that you can return to the original setting if desired. Again using the timing light and observing the mark on the main pulley (with the engine running as before), gently rotate the distributor housing until the timing mark drifts into the proper position relative to the degree tab. Tighten the lockdown bolt on the distributor, and give the timing mark one last look to ensure the distributor didn't accidentally move out of position. Your ignition is now calibrated per the manufacturer's specifications, optimizing your vehicle's power and mileage and minimizing exhaust emissions.

 

i have checked all that im not new to timing i know how it works. I have read about people advancing it and it runs better i have been trying to find a sweet spot on the carb.. I just did a hg on it a week or so ago new timong chain water pump timing cover new cap plugs wires rotor all is new so i think im going to try to get to base on the carb with the mix screw ( weber carb) and then look at the timing. You got any idea what cause the timing mark to jump under the light? the truck idles great and in the driveway in neutral it will rev up and everything is good no shaking or anything its just under load take off ok roll on the gas and has hesitation and stumbling and then it wil pick up and then shift and so on and so on?? thank you for the help what you think i should try next?

 

maybe your exhaust is clogged up somewhere
are you running a cat?

 

Its my brothers truck and no there is no cat and the exh was replaced last friday..

 

Definitely a carb related problem. The lean fuel mixture and hesitation sounds like a float adjustment that is set too low.

The vacuum advance hose should be connected to the inner port (the one closest to the motor), not the outer.

 

yeah, and i'm wondering if there is a plugged fuel filter. still sounds like the secondary in the carb though. and, this carb needs more timing advance.