Water injection
#1
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Water injection
Not the good kind
So i think ive got a cracked head on my rebuild (not my org motor)
Ive tracked down 2 hose leaks which would explain water loss, but i seem to be wafting white smoke when im cold. Really cant see it smokeing with its warm and i seem ot be looseing coolant.
so I hear you can pressure test the cooling system to find the leak? If its head gasket (which i highly dought) i could find that via a compression test?!?!
either way....
any sugestions?
So i think ive got a cracked head on my rebuild (not my org motor)
Ive tracked down 2 hose leaks which would explain water loss, but i seem to be wafting white smoke when im cold. Really cant see it smokeing with its warm and i seem ot be looseing coolant.
so I hear you can pressure test the cooling system to find the leak? If its head gasket (which i highly dought) i could find that via a compression test?!?!
either way....
any sugestions?
#2
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Thread Starter
oh btw for those of you following along at home i got my timming issue sorted out. Motor runs great, good low end power with the headers etc.
and no engine codes
and no engine codes
#4
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Thread Starter
warranty! ha
just a long block i bought from a dude and rebuilt.
the heads on my old motor are fine, working theory is i find out which head it is and just replace it with the one off the motor i pulled.
unless anyone else has any good ideas of why i would be wafting white smoke and looseing coolant
just a long block i bought from a dude and rebuilt.
the heads on my old motor are fine, working theory is i find out which head it is and just replace it with the one off the motor i pulled.
unless anyone else has any good ideas of why i would be wafting white smoke and looseing coolant
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Omaha, NE
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Suspected cracked head
I would test each cylinder by applying air pressure through the spark plug holes using the compresion tester hose without the gauge and adapted for an air chuck. Then remove the radiator cap...top up the fluid and watch for bubbles with the air applied to one cylinder at a time. Each cylinder must be on the beginning of it's compresion stroke with pistin down and valves closes. I use this method to also check for burned, or bent valves as you will hear the air hiss out of the exhaust or intake manifold. I have to do some work on a 1933 Chrysler imperial CQ with a straight 8 in it, that has a valve issue on one cylinder and this method will allow me to go right to the problem valve and hope it's just a little tight.
#7
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Oh, you did the rebuild. Did you check the heads with dye penetrant for cracks before you rebuilt them?
I had a machine shop do a valve job, valve stems and take about .005 off just to have a nice clean sealing surface. The word from the previous owner was there was nothing wrong with the motor and it looked that way when i pulled it apart.
its more work but not really more money to speak of to fix it... just frustrating that ive spent all this time working on it and i end up with probs, which problibly had nothing to do with the work i did.
on top of that the little driveing i have done in it (54 miles now) just reminds me all the more why i want to get my ol runner back on the road. Every one i see go past makes me want mine fixed.
Im torn at this point, i could tare it down again with out having to pull it out and fix it, or drop it off at a buddies shop and just write the check, both are options.
Last edited by snap-on; 06-04-2006 at 03:36 PM.
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