W56 B Trans Rebuild detailed w/ pics
08-09-2017, 07:37 PM
#21
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remove spring ball #3 so you can remove the #2 shaft When removing the plugs, springs and balls from this center plate make sure you mark which one came from where, they are all different
Last edited by ozzir70; 08-10-2017 at 07:56 AM.
08-09-2017, 07:45 PM
#22
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To remove the #2 shaft pull it forward a little but watch for this detent pin so you don't lose it. it is the smallest one. in the pic where I am pointing to the shaft on the top of the center plate you need to remove the top plug and stick a small magnet in the hole and you will pull out the biggest detent pin. Here is a pic of where that pin goes and what it looks like
Last edited by ozzir70; 08-10-2017 at 05:15 PM.
08-09-2017, 07:49 PM
#23
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Now with both shafts removed you need to knock out this roll pin on the #3 shaft. Once you do that you can remove the reverse idler and the 5th gear/ reverse shift fork and shaft
08-10-2017, 05:20 PM
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So I had some time tonight and got a little more done. Here I am pulling the output shaft sleeve that the T/C input shaft goes into. The FSM never really says when to pull it so just do it now you need it out of the way anyways.
08-10-2017, 05:28 PM
#27
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Measure the thrust clearance on the 5th gear bearing. It should be between .10 mm and .41 mm. Mine is over .50 mm. then pull the snap ring which is a pain. this is where these HD snap ring pliers paid off.
08-10-2017, 05:33 PM
#28
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You are going to be pulling these together, bearing and gear. When pulling gears be very careful how you put the jaws on them so you don't damage the gear. this is what you wind up pulling. watch out so you don't drop this bearing
08-10-2017, 05:40 PM
#29
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remove the snap ring. This is another one to use the 2 screwdriver method on. When pulling this clutch hub it is critical to pull on the hub not the retainer! With my puller I have to remove the sleeve off the clutch hub. be careful, hold your hand under it because 3 shifting keys will fall out, don't worry. very easy to get back together, we'll go over that later
08-10-2017, 05:46 PM
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You are going to pull these two together and this is a tough one, I just used the posi-loc 3 jaw puller on this. but first you have to remove this snap ring. 2 screwdrivers
08-10-2017, 06:03 PM
#32
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Remove this snap ring, its a tough one. But the gear comes off pretty easy. Then remove the 4 screws holding on the bearing retainer.
08-10-2017, 06:16 PM
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now working both shafts out together, just wiggle them back and forth. you may have to tap the middle plate with a mallet while pulling the shafts. And this is what your left with. I need to get to the shop to use the press to show you any more so I should be able to finish the disassembly on sat. In the one pic you can see the shafts have moved a ways
Last edited by ozzir70; 08-10-2017 at 06:18 PM. Reason: forgot pic
08-12-2017, 06:41 AM
#36
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Now the FSM has you check thrust clearance. I just did it to show you. I am not going to pull a trans this far apart and not change the bearings. So the clearance doesn't matter right now it will get set when you press on the new bearings.
08-12-2017, 06:58 AM
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now i remove the last of the snap rings. When looking at the clutch hub for 3rd/4th gear. It appears to be on backwards. The FSM shows the taper edge facing the front and this one is not. Looking back at other pics of my last transmission rebuild it was facing the front of the trans also. I am not sure if this had anything to do with my issue but the trans did not look like it had ever been apart. Maybe it was that way from the factory?
08-12-2017, 07:02 AM
#39
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When removing these snap rings they can be very hard to get off. I have bent more then one. Just make sure if you need to replace one you measure the thickness. Toyota has 5 different widths for each snap ring to help with axial play. So when putting them back on they shouldn't be too loose. If they are get a wider one
