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Vibrations After Third Member Swap

Old 02-12-2019, 03:06 PM
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Vibrations After Third Member Swap

Hello All,

I've returned to the honey hole of knowledge that is Yotatech. I absolutely love this forum and hope this thread may help somebody in the future.

Here's some background:

The truck is a 1991 Toyota Ex Cab 4WD, stock gear ratio, stock tire size, no lift. For all intents and purposes, this truck is like stock with 246k miles on it. 22RE, 5speed W56 tranny, etc. I recently replaced both rear wheel bearings and all related seals and gaskets, as well as swapped my third member with a rebuilt complete third from East Coast Gear Supply. The driver's side rear wheel bearing was making a clunking sounds of the first order (frequency was once per rotation of the wheel) at all speeds and the bearing, when I pulled it, was completely shot. Binding when turning by hand, ball bearings rattling around inside.

The rear differential was worn and was making a chattering sound when turning the wheels by hand and was in need of a rebuild, so I got a fully rebuilt one from ECGS. Let me say, I have been extremely happy with the diff and the customer service there is incredible. Fast turnaround, and very willing to help with tech questions.

The NEW Issue:

The replacement/installation of new parts went well and seemed without issue on initial drive; however, on the initial drive when I got to 45mph, I started to feel a vibration that increased in frequency with increased speed. It sounds to me like a second order vibration (frequency is 2x the wheel rotation). The vibration frequency increases as my speed increases over 45mph. The vibration is vehicle speed related, not engine related, because when I put the truck in neutral and coast at 45 or higher, the vibration is still there until I fall below that speed threshold.

What I've tried:
  • Checked pinion flange - when I did the diff install, I made sure to not let the slip yoke come apart as to maintain the balance of the driveshaft (and it doesn't look like any weights fell off). It should not be out of balance. Pinion flange bolts were tight and the yoke mated flush with the pinion flange.
  • Checked driveline - I have put the truck on a lift and tried to detect play in the U-joints and center support bearing. The U-joints have no discernible play in them and the center support bearing does not have an abnormal amount of play either. The U-joints are not stock because they have zerk fittings (at least I don't think they are). Front driveshaft has no play either.
  • Disconnected driveshaft - I inspected the rearmost U-joint where the driveshaft mates with the diff, and it was tight. I did notice, however, that when I turned the yoke on both axes they rotated easily through the center portion of their range, but at the extremes of their range became stiffer and took more force to manipulate.
  • Had the wheels balanced. The tech said the wheels were significantly out of balance and that they balanced them, but that it might not make a difference because the tires are 'cupping.' But the issue was not there until after my repairs so I find this to be a low likelihood cause.
  • Took the truck to a shop to have them diagnose the cause of the vibration. They told me "the driveshaft is binding." I asked for more information and what that meant, but they basically said I need to have the driveshaft rebuild. I am suspect of this though because the center support bearings and U-joints seem fine. I also disconnected the driveshaft after their diagnosis and turned it by hand, and I don't know what they meant by "binding."
A longshot idea I have is that since I left my truck on a lift overnight with the suspension maxed out, maybe something steering related in the front end was damaged? Some sort of rubber bushing or something?
At a little bit of a loss at this point, but I am open to suggestions and thank you all for any advice you have that may cast some light on this issue. Thanks!
Old 02-12-2019, 04:01 PM
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My 92 is a 2wd, and I had a very noticeable vibration between 55 and 59 mph. Had the tires balanced at two different shops no change. Rotated tires no change. Did not have the tires balanced with Road Force which I hear is the best.

Going down the road say at 65 mph. When I looked in the rear view mirror, the view was not super clear because it was actually vibrating distorting the view some what. I could not actually see the mirror vibrating. Just the image distortion let me know that it was.

U-joints felt fine moving the drive shaft around. No excessive play that I noticed. I said the heck with it, and ordered two Dana no zerk u-joints.

There is a shop close by that specializes in rear differentials and stuff like that. They installed the u-joints, and then balanced the drive shaft for $55 out the door back in 2017. Vibration was gone. Going down the road at 65 mph the vibration of the rear view mirror was gone too because the view was clear. Shop did say the drive shaft was out of balance.

Last edited by snippits; 02-12-2019 at 04:05 PM.
Old 02-12-2019, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by snippits
My 92 is a 2wd, and I had a very noticeable vibration between 55 and 59 mph. Had the tires balanced at two different shops no change. Rotated tires no change. Did not have the tires balanced with Road Force which I hear is the best.

Going down the road say at 65 mph. When I looked in the rear view mirror, the view was not super clear because it was actually vibrating distorting the view some what. I could not actually see the mirror vibrating. Just the image distortion let me know that it was.

U-joints felt fine moving the drive shaft around. No excessive play that I noticed. I said the heck with it, and ordered two Dana no zerk u-joints.

There is a shop close by that specializes in rear differentials and stuff like that. They installed the u-joints, and then balanced the drive shaft for $55 out the door back in 2017. Vibration was gone. Going down the road at 65 mph the vibration of the rear view mirror was gone too because the view was clear. Shop did say the drive shaft was out of balance.
Well for $55 out the door I would do that too, what a baragin! Do you know if your driveshaft has the double cardan joint and two piece vs one? I assume the U-joints replaced were output from the t-case and the driveshaft to pinion flange? I also am trying to figure out the connection between replacing the rear diff and the vibration coming on immediately after...
Old 02-12-2019, 04:47 PM
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On my 2wd pickup, it is a two joint type. The one at the top of the diagram in the link below.

http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake.../3propelle.pdf
Old 02-13-2019, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by snippits
On my 2wd pickup, it is a two joint type. The one at the top of the diagram in the link below.

http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake.../3propelle.pdf
Okay great, thank you.
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