valves click
what can it be? and how much will it coost to fix?
Sep 26, 2006 | 05:53 PM
#3
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 407
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From: Northern California
i dont think new shims are expensive....i dont know about how you adjust the valves in this one but you probably could measure and tighten the valve/cam clearance a bit. but at least they arent tight....
i was going to get new shims on my 7m but they weren't TIGHT so i said screw it and now i dont have a quiet topend...whatever.
maybe its an injector? i've heard they click, that is...if you have the 22RE and not the 22r
welcome
i was going to get new shims on my 7m but they weren't TIGHT so i said screw it and now i dont have a quiet topend...whatever.
maybe its an injector? i've heard they click, that is...if you have the 22RE and not the 22r
welcome
Sep 27, 2006 | 12:58 AM
#6
Registered User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 3
From: Central Florida
I'm at .008/.010 pn mine as per the Crane Cams spec for the cam I'm running and the engine is loads quieter than it was at .008/.012.
Egnbldr did a nice writeup on his thoughts on valve lash over on 4x4 wire:
">>>*I have always felt that .008" and .012" was a shade on the loose side. These engines do run noisy, after all the design is mechanical.
By listening closely, one will realize the click sound is at 1/4 of engine rotation, a mechanic's stethescope has demonstrated to me that it is the exhaust side that we hear.
The stock cam profile will accept .008" and .010" and this can help to ease the sound. But if the adjuster screw ends are worn, moving them exposes a different area, and the noise may actually increase at a closer setting.
Plus if worn, it is very easy to get a false reading since the feeler will read the widest point rather than the closest.
Trying to use "drag" as a guideline is very hard to do, these engines only have 60# seat tension in the spring, so a snug drag may actually be zero lash unless one has very good hands.
If the camshaft profile is other than stock, the lash setting may well be different than factory settings due to the lobe shape.
We suggest .007" intake and .009" exhaust on all of our designs for quietest operation, and we have even set the stock cam at that reading with no harm.
But by all means, pull the adjuster screws and check the ends for wear. If it is present, you will never really get the settings accurate....*EB "
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1
Egnbldr did a nice writeup on his thoughts on valve lash over on 4x4 wire:
">>>*I have always felt that .008" and .012" was a shade on the loose side. These engines do run noisy, after all the design is mechanical.
By listening closely, one will realize the click sound is at 1/4 of engine rotation, a mechanic's stethescope has demonstrated to me that it is the exhaust side that we hear.
The stock cam profile will accept .008" and .010" and this can help to ease the sound. But if the adjuster screw ends are worn, moving them exposes a different area, and the noise may actually increase at a closer setting.
Plus if worn, it is very easy to get a false reading since the feeler will read the widest point rather than the closest.
Trying to use "drag" as a guideline is very hard to do, these engines only have 60# seat tension in the spring, so a snug drag may actually be zero lash unless one has very good hands.
If the camshaft profile is other than stock, the lash setting may well be different than factory settings due to the lobe shape.
We suggest .007" intake and .009" exhaust on all of our designs for quietest operation, and we have even set the stock cam at that reading with no harm.
But by all means, pull the adjuster screws and check the ends for wear. If it is present, you will never really get the settings accurate....*EB "
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1
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