gohawks

Truck is in the shop. Oil pan is off. Now they figured out the transmission has to be separated from the engine to remove the main bearing cradle, to access the main bearings.

I was given an estimate of $800 to do this, but now they need an additional $495 for R&R of transmission.

That means I will be up to $1300 + tax.

My other option is to button her back up and pay $400 and have nothing but an oil change to show for it.

My wife is pissed. I'm sick to my stomach.

1988 3vze, auto transmission.

bamachem

to me, they should have known what they were getting into. $800 to change the bearing means doing what is necessary to do the job, even if they eat it on labor. it's their screw-up. make them worry about it. if they don't, give them a CC for the repairs to get the rig back, then immediately file a claim w/ the CC company to refuse payment, report them to the BBB and the local attorney general, and then see how they like to play hard-ball...

gohawks

I have thought about that route. However to be fair there was some concern going into the job that this may be the case.

I was assurred by a couple of other sources/people that the transmission would not need removed, so I agreed to attempt it. So I can't really blame the repair shop.

The estimate is for R&R of oil pan and replacement of bearings, but I think it was mutually agreed upon that the cost could rise due to other facotrs, ie transmission needs removed.

I do agree they SHOULD have known for sure, but they were aware it was a possibility and so was I.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I hate to bring this up...but this is why you have your vehicle worked on and/or serviced at the dealership. You and they both know what you are getting into before it starts, as you get a written estimate and none of the "change order" BS to get your truck back.

Good luck.

snap-on

have you paid them the first $400?

i see 1 of 2 options.

1) button it back up and pay them $20 for the oil change
or
2) have them contuine with the work for $400 ONLY as they commited to it

if they are any kind of qulified mechnic they would have known you haveto removed the trans to get the rear main seal off and you cant get the crank out with out takeing the rear main seal off.

if they baulk about the first simply say they didnt do the work as promised.
if they baulk about the second simply say they promised to do the work for that amount and its not your fault that they dont know what they are doing.

snap-on

i cant DISagree more.

need an example, go dig up the 50N recall and see how your free recall has turned into a nightmare of "required" "upcharges" for other parts for MORE than just a few people. (myself included)

gohawks

Thanks all.

Action taken.

kmcc78240

what action let us know how it goes

Radyota

What the? They should be able to get the main bearing cap cradle out without having to remove the transmission. After that, then if you look at the crankshaft journals and they're smooth then you don't need to remove the crankshaft at all! The upper main bearing halves can be "rolled out" and replaced one by one using a homemade wire "T" tool with the long part inserted into the oil hole in the crank journal. I don't know about the thrust bearing though. The spark plugs would have to be removed so that the engine could be turned over by hand to remove/install the bearings. I've used this technique 3 times (3 different cars) with no problems. If the crank has to be removed and ground down, that's when the transmission has to be removed.

Lt. Dan

Hope everything works out J.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

And you are entitled to DISagree.

But just because some dealership serice departments suck, or yours sucks, doesn't mean they all suck. My dealership service department is excellent and they have done excellent work on all my vehicles in some shape, fashion or form and I wouldn't trust repairs beyond my knowledge or time to anyone else. Not everyone in the world is dishonest and/or stupid...although it sounds like the repair shop in this particular thread is both.

So let's agree to DISagree. Fine by me!

gohawks

I have those who tell me transmission does not have to be dropped, and those who tell me it does, to remove the main bearing cradle.

I'm not having the crank removed or ground. It is the bearing cradle that is the issue. There is a protrusion or tabs ?? from the rear main seal that makes undoing the back main cap bolts inaccessible.

This has been told to me by more than one person attempting a bearing job via the oil pan.

However there have been those like yourselves that say it is possible without dropping the transmission. I don't know if there are subtle differences in the designs or what the deal is.

I do know, haven't seen for myself. I have been told both things by people who know.

FWIW I called FOUR Toyota Dealerships. For all their infinite wisdom they told me the motor had to be pulled no matter what. They wouldn't do the work even pulling the motor. They wanted to just install a new shortblock and be done with it for a cool $5000.

I did my homework, I did my research and in the end it was everyone's guess as to whether the tranny had to be pulled, 25 year Toyota Tech's included (one told me yeah and one told me neah).

I kinda of figured there would be hindsight advice given, not really what I was looking for at the time, but thanks anyways. Now on with the show.

vmax84

Whooooo............and here I thought I had MAJOR problems trying to figure out how to hook up the altimeter thingy!!! Good luck with this one, bro!!

vmax84