88 Pickup with 22RE! Went out one day to start truck. Truck started up and I let it warm up for 20 minutes and then cut it off. Went back a hour later to start up and and it wouldn't crank. Here's what I know and what I've done so far.
1) This is a spark issue because their is no spark from the ignition coil wire and the plugs are not showing any spark.
2) I have replaced rotor, cap, plugs.
3) I have replaced pickup coil(signal generator), ignition coil and ignitor(with one I got off Ebay).
4)I have replaced the starter.
5) Battery is good.
6) I have checked all the grounds.
7) Swapped ECU and nothing.
8) Tried roll starting the truck with no luck!
When you turn the key the starter turns the engine but doesn't start. I have tried starting fluid down the intake manifold and wouldn'y start, so I eliminated the fuel route.........
ANYBODY HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS? Please help..........Thanks.

 

Take the cap off and crank it and see if the rotor is spinning.

 

Rotor is not spinning! Does that mean it is the timing chain?
Thanks....

 

I'd guess it's a mechanical problem of some sort.

Pull the dist... what's it look like?

 

Pull off the valve cover and see if the timing chain broke.

 

Most likely.

Figure a head job in too. Its a zero clearance motor. Get a timing cover ordered. When the chain breaks it shears a lip off that directs oil into the chain under the crank gear.

For future reference "Guess and spend auto repair" gets quite expensive. "Diagnostics before dollars". Invest in a FSM or find one on line.

Going through the diagnostics chart you would have been asked the check that before you spent dime one. You would have also been as asked to check the codes and you would have got a crank position sensor code.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ion=FI&Page=12 That is nearly Identical to the one for the 22re. Just scanning over it real quick I saw 4 different times that the no start question distributor and crank position sensor. The manual also has a section that would have walked you though testing each component.


Ohh its not uncommon for the pin the indexes the cam to break. So if the chain looks like its on take the cam gear loose and see if the pin is broken.

 

Thanks, I will pull the valve cover off tomorrow to verify that the timing chain is broke. I just had a new timing chain and new rebuilt head put on 1 1/2 years ago. I understand that you can put the timing chain on without taking the head off?????????

 

Yeah you can but that doesn't fix the bent valves you probably have.

If you just had the work done that long ago was there any warranty on the work? If it was a Dealer RAISE IMMORTAL HELL and you might just talk them into fixing it.

If no chance in warranty then slap a chain on it but before you button it up do a bleed down test on it to see if it has any bent valves.

 

For future readers having this problem. Turns out the TIMING CHAIN BROKE!

 

when u went to start it did it try to turn over or give you nothing. Im having the same symptoms but it doesnt even try to turn over so im assuming it is electrical.

 

OK, when the key is on, engien off, does the check engine light come on? If it doesnt, it wont start, you wont have spark or injector pulse. And if there is a spark issue and its anything on the primary side, you will have a stored trouble code. Report back, we can proceed from there.

 

OK, ignore last post. Saw this and realized it doesnt apply. Yes, broken timing chain. It is an interference engine. But if you shut it off and it wouldnt start, chances are real good you did no damage to the valves. Yes, you can replace the chain wihtout removing the head or pan. Please dont but the whole set that cost $40! Expect to pay around $120 if you want a good set.

 

mine does nothing, no startup lights or clicking and anything. the headlights and emerg. flashers

 

Trying to quote an earlier reply from GrimReaper, I'll have to figure that out later (I guess I need to look up a computer tech forum - Ha).
Anyway, GrimReaper mentioned the lip inside the timing cover. I'm completing piecing my 22re back together after a chain failure. I had noticed that this was broke. I took the cover to a toyota dealership and they said with it missing not to worry. I didn't know, nor did he mention that it was for directing oil toward the chain at the crank sprocket.
The cover, head are back on sooo.....am I screwed? Will this just cause the chain to wear sooner or could I have immediate problems.

 

Ignore that piece, its not that important. Baciallly, it keep the chain on the sprocket if you allow slack. Certainily runs for many years without it. Its not for directing oil. SO your OK. Trust the dealer techs. They know these things like the back of their hand.

 

That's reassuring. Thanks for that.

 

OK, when the key is on, engien off, does the check engine light come on? If it doesnt, it wont start, you wont have spark or injector pulse. And if there is a spark issue and its anything on the primary side, you will have a stored trouble code. Report back, we can proceed from there.
__________________
Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician (MDT)
18+years at the same dealership!

That is my problem. No check engine light. I grounded out the 'W' check and the check engine light works. Trying to follow my manual it shows either a ground or the ECU is cooked. HELP !!!!!

 

OK, so no check engine light, but when the TE and E1 is grounded, the light comes on, but doesnt blink out codes? Do I have that right? If so, I'd be thinking about an ECU. Did anyone jump this backwards? Its about the only wat to take out a Toyota ECU and even then, it usually doesnt.

 

Young boys owned it so I think that it is a possibility it was jumped backwards.A couple of relays and fuses were blown and I have replaced them and they check out fine now. When I jump Te to E1 I have no check engine light.When I ground "W" to the body I get the check engine light.

 

BTT again