Well, I never got a chance to take the valve cover off . I'm about to do it now .. and maybe take some pics of the timing guides (If I can see them ) . to see if any one thinks there worn .

 

Well, I just adjusted the valves ... Put everything back together . Why would it be ticking louder ?>

 

they are probably still to loose, the first time I did mine I had to do it 4 times in the same day to get it right! When you put your feeler gauge in to check it is supposed to feel like if you stuck a knife into a jar of peanut butter and moved it around, when you slide the gauge back and fourth it should feel like this. I know the manual says very slight drag, but it will be noisy as hell if you do it that way, also check it with the gauge again after you tighten the nut down it moves sometimes. Try it again and you should be good!

 

How did your timing guides look?

 

I guess I'll tighten them up a little more .
As for the timing chain and/or guides .. I definitely need a new timing set .

I guess that's not bad considering the mileage ...



The truck runs great . .. The ticking is just annoying as hell. All I need it timing chain,guides, front oil seal and a for the oil pan .

Slight oil leak aye ??? haha

 

Hmmmmm snow camo valve cover...now your giving me ideas
Heat paint here I come!

 

Today I adjusted the valves a little tighter .Then put it all back together again .. started it up and the engine was miss firing at Idle( I checked for vacuum leaks and there were none) . . So I took it part again and loosened the valve a little , now it miss firing a little less ,but the ticking is back . Any thoughts?

 

Sorry to say, but it sounds like a burnt valve or maybe even a few with the miss, it would make sense if the valves were as tight as you say they were. Who did the valves last on your truck? Anyone else suspect burnt valves?

 

A compression test would probably tell me if it's a burnt valve . I guess it's possible. The truck runs good still. (except for the slight miss fire) I might be able to blame that on the tps. .. .. I guess I'll just drive it till it needs a new engine .. I'm actually looking forward to that though ..I've looked on that lc engineering site. This might be a dumb question ,but how do I know If I have a long block or a short block engine ?

 

yeah I felt kinda dumb when I had to ask mine friend that one time, but a long block will be the motor and the head and a short block is just the block and rotating assembly, crank, pistons, rods. Yeah you should do the compression test and see what numbers you get. How many miles on your motor now?

 

Haha yeah , I guess you won't know in less you ask . I thought it had to do with the length of the engine block.. but o'well thanks for the info . I took a pic of the odometer the other day . it's on the first page on this thread .. The mileage is something over 400,000 ..(Alot I know )

 

do you know how many on the motor? depending on that you might just need to get your head fxed, but you could rebuild it too.

 

I don't know about the motor.. I was told that it had a new head gasket put on about 4 years ago, as for the cylinder head it self I don't know what was done to it .

 

may I step in and suggest that it's not the valves, but the rocker shafts causing the noise?

seen it happen on volvo's and other engines.

adjusting the valves takes up the slack on the bottom of the rocker shafts, but nothing can take up the slack on the top of the shafts so the rocker arms tap-tap away until the camshaft comes up.

 

and anyone trying to take up slack on the tensile side of the chain with a screwdriver when there is no oil pressure taking up slack, is not being operationally or functionally correct (yeah, same word for different people)

 

I will wait till we see what the compression test says!

 

you could be right though!

 

I like the rocker arm theory .. That really sounds like the prob .Is there any way to test this ?

 

yeah, but chances are you are pulling the head to fix the problem either way!

 

Well , I guess this is how ya do it .

The oil clearance between the rocker arm and shaft is measured in two steps. Measure the outside diameter of the rocker shaft with a micrometer. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arms with a dial indicator. The difference between the rocker arm inner diameter and the shaft outer diameter is the oil clearance. Clearance specs are as follows:

* 8R-C: 0.030-0.38mm
* 18R-C: 0.017-0.051mm
* 20R: 0.010-0.050mm
* 22R, 22R-E, 22R-TE: 0.010-0.050mm
* F, 2F, 3F-E: 0.010-0.050mm
* 1L, 2L, 2L-T: 0.018-0.056mm

If specifications are not within these ranges, replace either the rocker shaft or rocker arm. Clearance can also be checked by moving the rocker arm laterally on the shaft when assembled. There should be little or no movement.

Sounds good to me aye ?