Okay so I'm trying to replace my clutch in my 87 1st gen with a 22re and 5 speed. I'm at the two top bolts on top of the trans mission (no body lift) what angle do i attack those bolts from? should I use 1 or 2 swivels or 2 extensions? I tried to remove the bolt tonight but the 2 1/2 foot extension that I had with a swivel at the socket end just kept bending. I think I was binding up on the swivel end, it was a 3/8 drive. Tomorrow I'm going to purchase a 1/2 inch swivel and socket and try it out again.

Yea i did a search but came up empty handed.
Any tips would be greatly appreciated, i have the drive lines off of the truck and cant drive it till i put this new MC clutch in.

thanks

 

yea,,, it takes a wobbley and an S-ton of extensions... sometimes it helps to have a buddy guide it onto the bolt and then hold it so it doesnt bind.. PITA but it will come off

i find that is EASIER with the 3/8s not the 1/2.... 1/2 is too fat and there is less wiggle room

 

Use lots of smaller extensions. It gives less torque but it flexes nicley. That with a wobble bit will get'r'done.

 

i have never had a problem getting those 2 bolts out or back in.

with the engine down as low as it will go with out damaging anything you have a straight shot you just have to be in the correct spot to see what you are doing

.

I another thing I do is remove the oil filter to get at the starter bolts makes it simple to get to both bolts from the front laying on the ground

 

So do I need to loosen the engine? and drop it?

 

Okay I got those top two bolts out, my mangina must have been too tender last night. All I needed was a small breaker bar at the end of my ratchet.
I used a 17mm wabbler, 3 inch and 6 inch 3/8 drive ext, long 1/2 drive ext. ratchet and small breaker bar on the handle.

So do oyou guys use locktite blue on all these bolts when you re install?

 

i myself use never seize But to each his own i do use new lock washers i have lost no bolts yet.

Cause no doubt it will be me pulling it out again.

 

No locktite. Just tighten them down, to spec if you have the specs.

if you put locktite on them you will never get them off ever again.

 

Just tighten them up...

 

if you ever have to do it again might consider this
I really like this mod from Mr. Stubs Blueberry Krunch Build
he has done a lot of innovative stuff

 

I cut those holes in my fire wall and have body plugs covering them up. I still need to use a wobble but stabbin the socket is a breeze.

Old fashoned way was my 3/8 17mm shallow, wobble, & extention no problem just the stab is a PITA

No locktite torque em down

 

Thanks guys, I like this mod. If I do it again I might consider this for sure. I was also thinking a 1 inch body lift will come in handy. I did use loctite blue on the flywheel and clutch plate. Hope that dosent cause any future problems!

I still have to stabb this trans back in and I will be done. I guess thats the hard part.

 

i think the removal and installation is easy it is all the other stuff you have to remove to get it out.

The first one I ever did I left the sway bar in never again

 

Thanks for the help guys,
It only took me about 15 minutes to successfully stab it into the flywheel, but I was trying to force it in all the way without installing the top bolts to draw it closer to the motor. I wont mention how long I fought it before I decided to read the manual and install the top two bolts. Just need to hook up the driveline, starter, battery adjust the pedal play and I am good to go.

Next project is to swap out the front third member / axel housing (4:10) with a set of 4:56, I already did the rear-end. So I am going leave the front drive line off until I tackle the swap.
Has anyone ever removed the axel flange bolts with it still installed in the truck? And did you replace the bolts with aftermarket bolts or put the stock bolts back in?