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Timing mark jumping around

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Old 10-04-2010, 07:04 PM
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the whole frontend kit....chain set, waterpump,oil pump, timing cover.

my cover is still good...but ill use the new one...im gonna give the old one to mightymouse...his dad needs one or something.

Im also doing my cam and rocker assembly...but im using good used ones from mighty mouse.
Old 10-04-2010, 08:12 PM
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Wow thats awesome!

I'm trying to figure out if its necessary to change out oil pump?

My kit is just the chain, tensioner, sprockets, guides, gaskets, front seal. Nothing else.
Old 10-04-2010, 08:22 PM
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If it is any help I just did my timing chain on my 82. I converted to a dual row. Water pump, chain kit, thermostat, gaskets, cover and oil pump. While I had the oil pump out I inspected the gears for any play and mine DID have enough play to be concerned. I ended up changing my oil pump.
One thing I can say is make sure you line the bright colored links with the dot and make sure you set TDC. I set mine a tooth back by accident. I think I moved TDC by accident and I ended up having to pull the cam sprocket off and reset forward a tooth. Its great now and I will make damn sure not to make that mistake again.
Old 10-04-2010, 09:03 PM
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Ha ha I'm doing the engnbldr kit this weekend too. Whole thing. IMO the oil pump is so cheap you might as well put a new one in.
Old 10-04-2010, 09:35 PM
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no i was not "horsing around"...it really pushes my buttons when someone decides to censor the word "GOD" instead of a cussword.

you hear it in music on the radio (and tv), in movies, on TV shows and everywhere...if you're going to censor a word...atleast censor the bad words.
Old 10-04-2010, 09:48 PM
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Have you pulled your plug wires one at a time? I'm wondering if that "bump" isn't a misfiring cylinder randomly firing. if you pull one and idle doesn't drop that's your culprit.
Old 10-05-2010, 06:34 AM
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No I haven't done that Andy, I have heard of that happening but I don't quite understand it. I guess I'll have to go and try? Could you elaborate on what exactly I am looking for. I would assume you pull a cord and the engine will run real bad. Why would the wire/cylinder that was having an issue not have a noticlble drop in idle?
Old 10-05-2010, 07:11 AM
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Actually if just one cylinder is not running the engine won't idle that bad. I forgot to plug one back in once and I was only like "what the hell?" when I started to drive it and the power was terrible.

But yeah you'll pull one plug at a time with the engine running and see what happens. The engine will stumble and run like crap if you're down to two cylinders. (Maybe die? I've never had just two cylinders running...)

But if you pull a wire and there's no change that cylinder wasn't firing. So if pulling the wire causes the idle to drop that cylinder was good, if no change that cylinder is bad.

Also make sure you pull the wires far enough out - that spark can jump a couple inches.
Old 10-06-2010, 11:06 AM
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Well I pulled all the plug wires but I didn't really see anything different happening. They all did the same thing, the engine stumbled a bit, and no change.

My misfire is very faint, and I only notice it if I am in the driveway, in the engine bay pulling the throttle plate open and having it fast idle at about 2000 to 3000 RPM. The engine will bounce a bit right when it does it, I can hear it in the exhaust, and I can see it when I'm doing the timing. The mark jumps around. If I just have it idle at 850 RPM it happens but its very very faint.

I am assuming it does it driving as well because the truck has NO power. I sometimes can't get up a small hill from a stop sign. I have to gun the crap out of it.

I've created quite a few threads of my lack of power/slight miss. I have felt like I've thrown every part at it, and its starting to get very annoying. The only things I haven't done now is the timing chain, distributor, igniter.

Once again I can go through:
The head is a new head, new head gasket, all gaskets, fuel filter, remanned injectors, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, Denso O2 sensor, Denso TPS, checked all voltages at ECU, new cat, cleaned entire intake plenum, IAC, tested out all sensors. Compression is 165 - 170 in all cylinders.

I'm assuming that its in the last of my things on my to-do list. I'm hoping. This list keeps growing though as I discover. I will have a brand new negine when I'm done with this. Then the bottom end will probably crap out.
Old 10-06-2010, 12:16 PM
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How bout a EGR that's stuck open?
Old 10-06-2010, 12:23 PM
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Good call but I've already tried blocking it off.

I actually have a restriction plate with a 1/4" hole drilled in it...

Nothing really changed... I also cleaned the crap out of the EGR and verified it opens and closes when its supposed to.
Old 10-06-2010, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by camo31"10.50"
no i was not "horsing around"...it really pushes my buttons when someone decides to censor the word "GOD" instead of a cussword.

you hear it in music on the radio (and tv), in movies, on TV shows and everywhere...if you're going to censor a word...atleast censor the bad words.
Grow some skin, dude. You can't change the world, so you might as well do something about your self. It's your misery. No one else is responsible for it.
Old 10-06-2010, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BajaRunner
Good call but I've already tried blocking it off.

I actually have a restriction plate with a 1/4" hole drilled in it...

Nothing really changed... I also cleaned the crap out of the EGR and verified it opens and closes when its supposed to.
Why don't you just wait until you have your new kit in and can check the distributor to try and troubleshoot any further? I don't know if you're familiar with ChefYota's long plight, but he had a misfire no one could accurately diagnose. Turned out to be the cam he had custom ground was bad. I don't know.....just seems torturing yourself isn't working...lol!
Old 10-11-2010, 05:57 PM
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This weekend I will be doing my timing chain, guides, sprockets, tensioner, etc...

Just for argument/discussion sake...

Has anyone installed a timing chain kit and cleaned up the idle and power?

I'm still concerned on why after I replaced my head gasket (and all other gaskets), cam, rockers, etc the truck ran PERFECT for 2 days then all of a sudden started being weird again: erratic idle, rough idle, no power, hesitation on acceleration. What would case that?

It still seems that it runs "tighter" when warming up. Once it hits operating temp, it craps out. Disconnecting the TPS helps idle smooth out, but the TPS is BRAND new and is perfectly adjusted. (I have tested this thing a million times). Warm starts it sits at 500 RPM. Cold idle is about 1800... which seems sort of extreme.

I'll post another video here. I mean, the idle sounds OK compared to a 22re with a major problem. Its very very slight, but I know its not as smooth as it should be.

Last edited by BajaRunner; 10-11-2010 at 05:59 PM.
Old 10-12-2010, 01:48 PM
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Just did my timing chain this weekend. No change at all in the idle. (I'll be posting more about these adventures shortly...)

Idle at 500 is awful low... Put her up to 750 and see if it doesn't smooth out.

I don't remember everything the FSM says for "poor acceleration" but a bad ecu is one of those things. How are your grounds?
Old 10-12-2010, 02:31 PM
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Yeah I have it set for 850, and it will sit there after I drive it or rev the motor. But, right after it starts up when warm it likes to sit at 500 for a bit.

So was your chain bad, or loose, or was the tensioner bad?

I've checked all grounds with multimeter, and they all have about 1 or less ohm to the negative terminal. ECU is going to be the only thing left now... ;/ I have checked voltages via FSM at ECU and ALL are in spec.

Last edited by BajaRunner; 10-12-2010 at 02:32 PM.
Old 10-12-2010, 02:38 PM
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Can't remember did you say you checked your cold start injector?
Old 10-12-2010, 03:34 PM
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Well, I've checked that the resistances are correct in the cold start injector switch, and the cold start injector. Other than that, I have no idea if its stuck open or closed. :/
Old 10-12-2010, 03:40 PM
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Does it run any different if it's unplugged? Other that that you can pull the injector and see if it leaks fuel when you jump the fuel pump test connectors. Ignition needs to be on for that (but truck not running.)
Old 10-12-2010, 03:43 PM
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Oh and maybe go through and clean up your grounds just to be safe. I've had grounds check fine on resistance but not want to pass large amounts of current.


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