I don't think that its chain failure first in every scenario. Tensioners can fail, etc.

Also, you were saying that dual row chains are stronger. According to Ted, a single chain and a double chain break at the same capacity.

At any rate, TOYOTA recommends timing chain replacement at 80k.

 

I too had an oil pick up totally fouled w/ plastic pieces.

The entire screen was occluded w/ oil/water goo and plastic pieces.

It appeared that the PO had changed the Timing chain w/o removing the oil pan.
Lots of large chunks from old/ original T-chain in the oil pan, the DOA timing guids looked unworn but the dampener had small groves in it.

Main bearings were scored from plastic pieces melting into them, course it could have been the extra RTV used but from the JUNK all over the oil intake screen:dunno



Repo

 

Yeah, that is way too much RTV, it looks like there is almost an 1/8" lip or more around the inside of the timing cover.

Was there a gasket used at all or just mass amounts of RTV?

 

Big 10-4 on to much rtv. I use the black and spread it thin. Also you can use Indian head gasket shellac. Its killer to break loose later. But seals great, with no mess. As for the double row chain. I have an engine here with a rod bearing failure. run low on oil. Valve cover gasket leak. Has 235 K miles. Stock. No change of chain. Makes you wonder dont it? Maybe tensioner were better then also. Who knows?

 

I know Toyota suggests timing kit change prior to 100K. But I have not seen one go out before 100K from factory. Rebuilds., some dont make it 10K. Depends on brand installed and also who installed it. I have read you cant beat Toyota chain on forums. Question is, who made the chain for Toyota? Toyota didnt make the chains. So its possible to buy the same chain cheaper if you know the brand chain used orginally. Anyone know the brand name used at factory?

 

Well I'm back on the job after a vacation in Massachusetts! I pulled the oil pan today. There was a bunch of shrapnel but the pan was remarkably clean for over 200K. I dropped the pitman arm and steering damper, loosened the d/s motormount and jacked the engine up. Pan came right out. It was 102* today so I was moving a bit slowly. I am using the EB kit. I clearanced the steel guide and set up the timing chain. I cranked the engine over with a ratchet and no unusual noises I quit for the day and Iwill hit it tomorrow.

 

good deal man....glad you are back at it

 

Happened to me too. I don't think its as unlikely as you might think My understanding is that 22REs are *barely* interference engines.

 

Gnarls;
Top of page 3 is a pic that Flying Brass posted. The steel guide has a slight interference with the water passage on the timing cover. A quick pass on the grinder allows the cover to seat with no issue.

This morning my wife was freaking out because we had 3 BATS in our yard. A mother and a couple of smaller ones. The smallest was clinging to the mother. Austin has one of the largest Mexican Free-tail bat populations in the world, so you have to deal with the occasional sick one. Assume that they are rabid and treat them with respect. Anyway my morning is off to a slow start!!

 

I went steel guides and never looked back on ALL my 22re engines.

Every plastic guide I got never made it past 15k without breaking and me having to fish the damn pieces out of the pan

DOA is the way to go for timing chain set... theres others but I always had good luck with the kit.

 

WTF?

Whats going to break? Seriously trying to get your point.... If you assemble it right it's almost bulletproof.

 

Gnarls;
Anything rabid will bite (especially when you are scooping them into an empty timing chain box..LOL) Don't forget heavy goves and wash your hands!

Didn't get much done today. I am picking up a small torque wrench tomorrow for the critical adjuster bolts (12 ft/lbs). And blue Loctite.

I tried to cheat on the torque last time and I paid the price. I could go either way on the guides but I chose metal again this time.

 

Hello

Ok now im confused. Im glad I bought the LCE timing chain with metal guides. This is the first thread I have seen that questions metal chain guides worth the extra $$$. I thought if Im going to replace the timing chain I might as well get a good chain, oil pump, and water pump (all from LCE). Yes they are expensive. But, I always believe you get what you pay for. I figure there is a reason my truck has 310k on it. I had it since it was practically brand new always changed the oil and have had it regularly serviced. I still use this as my daily driver!! I drive all over the east coast in this 94 2wd rig. I driven it to hell and back. I will cry the day that truck leaves my life. I had her since 1996 its the longest relationship I had with anything!

 

I went with EB stuff again.

 

ttt

 

After work I torqued the adjuster with my new (cheap HF) 3/8 TQ wrench. I went 5 ft/lbs then 10 with blue loctite. Packed the new oil pump with vaseline. Assembled the front end. Tomorrow I will install the oil pan. I'll let the RTV set up overnight before I try to fire it off. Wish me luck!

 

Got the oilpan on. Rolled the motor over with the wrench. I need to find that distributor thread. Getting closer,,

 

I want to stab my dizzy right the first time and I couldn't remember where the nub went. I hate getting senile!!

 

The "nub" should be right in front of the drive gear. See 92 Toy's picture: https://www.yotatech.com/51449959-post2676.html

 

Here's how I just did it on my 22re. With the number one cylinder at TDC compression, I installed the dizzy with the rotor pointing at 12 o'clock. Rotor rotated counter-clockwise to point at the number one spark plug wire on the dizzy cap. Timing was dead on using this method.