JeffsJeep04

Just picked up a 93 22re 5 speed truck with 79,000 on the clock. Truck runs and drives beautifully. The clutch is slipping, so I ordered up marlins turbo clutch kit. Figured if I already had the big clutch in there, I'll have all the right parts to replace everything. If not, then I got an upgrade. Planned to pull the tranny and put it in this weekend.

The problem with low mileage older vehicles is oil leaks, and this is no exception. I tackled the valve cover gasket today and to my surprise, the chain guide is nowhere to be found. No noise, no rattle, runs like a top. Wife wants to kill me for yet another project on this ugly old truck, but that's another story.

I'm really torn as to which way is going to be easiest. Do I do the clutch as planned, then to back in, pull the front off the truck, and fix the timing in the vehicle? Or do I pull the motor and do both at the same time? Time is at a premium, as well as money. Thoughts from the peanut gallery?

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Either way you're pulling the tranny. After that the clutch is right there easy as pie to get to.

After that it's a few things you take off the front to get to the timing chain whereas pulling the engine requires a lot of disconnecting stuff. I think you'll save the most time by leaving it in the truck and doing one then the other.

snobdds

Hardly...

I would rather remove the engine than a tranny any day. In fact a 22re engine can be pulled in a few hours.

I always pull the engine to do any type of head or timing chain work. Then I can reseal the entire motor and ensure it's good for another 100,000 miles.

JeffsJeep04

That's the way I'm leaning the more I think about it. That also allows me to spread the job out over time.

Just going to have to keep an eye on the oil/coolant situation until I can get in there.

thralldad

Next time I do a clutch, I'm pulling the motor! Been there, done it the other way!

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Haha, I guess I just like to do things the hard way.

JeffsJeep04

Follow up question:

Since the truck has such low miles, and the chain and sprocket looked so nice, would I be able to buy just the metal guide and put that in without having to go through all the trouble of pulling the disributer, etc?

snobdds

Once you get in there, you will quickly see how the answer is no.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That is a very interesting question .

i have at times wondered the same thing .

Then till I get things all apart I would rather have all new parts and be done with it.

I have heard to many stories of people unable to seal the timing cover and head without pulling the head. It would save pulling the manifolds though.

Such a pain to pull the oil pan in the vehicle at least for me.

JeffsJeep04

Well, clutch is done. What a bear, I'm not built like the person they figured on working in there apparently. No bolts left over and she's got a new fuel filter, new rear main, and everything the clutch and transmission touch are new parts from marlin. Next weekend will be timing.

Hindsight - probably would have been faster to pull the motor on this one.

JeffsJeep04

And timing chain done. Definitely one to do with the motor in.

For future searches:

- put engine at TDC before pulling anything. Take out the radiator pull the valve cover. Rotate the engine using the 19mm crank bolt until a notch on the pully is at zero (I had two notches) and both valves on #1 are slack. Now you can yank the distributer with the one 12mm bolt and getting the ps pump off is much easier. Put a paint mark on the distributer and head before you pull it to give you a base timing.

If you have a manual transmission, pull the motor mounts and jack the engine up to get the oil pan out. I had to use a come-along to the rafter of the garage because my cherry picker is 45 minutes away. Pull the two 14mm bolts from the sides of the mount, not the 17mm center stud. I did the center and ended up having to pull the passenger mount to get it to drop back in. You will also have to pull the three 17mm bolts holding the idler arm bracket on and the 14mm holding the steering stabilizer. Gives you a ton of room. I dropped the pan, then took the 4 12mm bolts holding the pickup tube on (two on the tube itself, two on supports). Used great stuff on the pan and timing cover and everything seems dry so far. Put a bead on and spread it with your finger. Too much is a very bad thing.

-get the engnbldr kit! I had to get rushed shipping to get it here yesterday with the holiday and was barely over $200 to my door. iI has almost everything. Wish it would have come with new studs and nuts to put the fan on the water pump but other than that it was awesome. Make sure the fan is seated all the way on the water pump before you tighten the studs, easy to leave a gap and the pully will be loose.

-jack the front end up when you refill the radiator, it will help get the air out better.

If I think of more, I will edit. Went much better than the clutch.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Also break the crank pulley bolt free before anything....much easier to remove than when you have everything else removed and later need to do it.

I've removed and replaced tranny twice....not fun. Agree on pulling motor if doing both jobs.

Good work!

JeffsJeep04

I put it in 5th gear, locked the hubs in, and put it in 4wd. Stuck a block of wood in front of and behind the tire. No problem with a 1/2" ratchet and a cheater bar.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

a common practice is to you use a breaker bar against the frame disconnect the coil spark plug and then crank it a couple of times to break it free