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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Time for paint with a brush and roller

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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 12:47 PM
  #21  
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that came out mch nicer than mine. and also with the black, depending on what angle you are looking at it and where the sun is, it kind of has a purple tint to it as well
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 02:41 PM
  #22  
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Does anyone know how long it takes for Brightside to fully harden? I've noticed that the paint is still a bit soft after a full day of drying. It's dry to the touch, but I was expecting it to be a lot harder for a urethane. It might be because the air is really dry right now and I think brightside is a moisture cure.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 03:48 PM
  #23  
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From: On top of your wife.
if its not a two part, full cure in like 2 days.


as with all paints, depends on temp, humidity etc.

cold it is longer it takes, warmer you can keep it, the less time it will take.

call up interlux and ask them.

btw alot of marine paint systems have very informative websites and very helpful service ppl.

Since interlux has paints, more or less designed for non-professional application they are very good about answering questions like this over the phone.

edit:

heres the datasheet link



Brightside Polyurethane
Finishes & Undercoats
Premium Single Part Polyurethane


PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
A ready-mixed one part linear polyurethane topside finish that has the ease of use of an enamel with the high gloss of a two part polyurethane. Superior self-leveling properties that yield that "sprayed on" look when brush applied in thin coats.
* High gloss and superb color retention
* Excellent abrasion resistance and durability
Brightside contains Teflon? which makes it easier to clean and better able to resist staining, chemicals & dirt. Teflon? also increases the abrasion resistance of Brightside.

PRODUCT INFORMATION
Colour Y4100-Largo Blue, Y4152-Yellow, Y4190-Kingston Gray, Y4205-Seattle Gray, Y4207-Bristol Beige, Y4208-Hatteras Off-White, Y4217-Grand Banks Beige, Y4218-Hatteras Off-White 1990, Y4233-Dusk Gray, Y4237-Sundown Buff, Y4241-Sapphire Blue, Y4247-Sea Green, Y4248-Fire Red, Y4250-Steel Gray, Y4253-Ocean Blue, Y4258-Black, Y4259-Blue-Glo White, Y4316-Dark Blue, Y4351-Light Blue, Y4353-Medium Blue, Y4359-White, Y4360-Matterhorn White A198, Y4381-Off-White, Y4391-Rustic Red, Y4990-Flag Blue
Finish High Gloss
Specific Gravity 1.187
Volume Solids 45%
Typical Shelf Life 2 yrs
VOC (As Supplied) 420 g/lt
Unit Size 1 US Quart 1 US Gallon (Some colors only)

DRYING/OVERCOATING INFORMATION

Drying

50?F 73?F 95?F


Touch Dry [ISO] 3hrs 2hrs 1hrs



Overcoating
Substrate Temperature
50?F 73?F 95?F
Overcoated By Min Max Min Max Min Max Min Max


Brightside &nbsp16hrs &nbsp- &nbsp12hrs &nbsp- &nbsp8hrs &nbsp-


Note:Brightside must be sanded between coats.

Last edited by Tylerars24; Oct 25, 2007 at 03:52 PM.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 03:56 PM
  #24  
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Is the orange peel bad? I can't see very well in the pictures.

But great job!
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 04:27 PM
  #25  
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The MDS didn't specify the full cure time... only the re-coat time. I'm guessing it takes several days. Right now, the temperature is 75F which is perfect, but the humidity is only 18%. I suspect the low humidity is slowing the curing time.

Orange peel? What orange peel? Seriously, there is very little orange peel. The biggest problem is dust and bugs since it takes a while for the paint to flash over.

I'm going to let the left side cure a couple of days before wet sanding and doing the second coat. In the meantime, I'll start work on the right side. There is body work to be done.

The top is disaster. I'm going to have to sand it down. The paint is in bad shape and the previous owner used it as a cargo rack without any protection so there are gouges in it.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 04:33 PM
  #26  
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Nice, you beat me to using a sprayer and thats what I think i will do. Should be much easier and if I thin it with 15% mineral spirits should work.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 04:43 PM
  #27  
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From: On top of your wife.
sounds about right as far as time goes


Is one side in the sun all day and one not?
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:01 PM
  #28  
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I moved the wet side into the sun after it flashed.

The settings for the spray gun:

1.8mm tip,
thin with 15% mineral spirits,
35 psi gun pressure,
cover with 2 light coats. allow a few minutes between coats to prevent runs.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:08 PM
  #29  
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Did you use an adjustable regulator with the gun and what size compressor? I do not know if my little job can handle it.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #30  
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Yep. Use a regulator at the gun.

The compressor is a 2HP. I would prefer a 3HP, but you go with what you got.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:57 PM
  #31  
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Then my 1/4 hp aint gonna do the task lol..

I been meaning to pick up the nice 3hp 60 gallon one I saw at home depot..
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 06:02 PM
  #32  
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From: On top of your wife.
Originally Posted by CJM
Then my 1/4 hp aint gonna do the task lol..

I been meaning to pick up the nice 3hp 60 gallon one I saw at home depot..
after some quick reading about the interlux "self leveling" paint, it seems that rolling and tipping would yield results on par with spraying.

read the data sheets and give them a call, u might just save 300 bucks on a compressor.

then again, it is a pretty good excuse to get better equip.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 06:22 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Tylerars24
after some quick reading about the interlux "self leveling" paint, it seems that rolling and tipping would yield results on par with spraying.

read the data sheets and give them a call, u might just save 300 bucks on a compressor.

then again, it is a pretty good excuse to get better equip.
Oh I can paint that way, but its less time consuming using the sprayer. I can make a paint booth easy too, just cordon off my garage with plastic.

Its an even better excuse to save my cash and buy a new truck, the t100 is to big to fit on most trails so I am looking for a runner or truck, but I aint got no cash!
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 08:43 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by InternetRoadkill
I'm going to let the left side cure a couple of days before wet sanding and doing the second coat. In the meantime, I'll start work on the right side. There is body work to be done.

The top is disaster. I'm going to have to sand it down. The paint is in bad shape and the previous owner used it as a cargo rack without any protection so there are gouges in it.
just wondering, but why didn't you do all the sanding and prep work before you painted anything?

seems a little backwards to meee
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 05:38 AM
  #35  
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I'm doing one side at a time because the weather is active this time of year. I don't want raw metal exposed for any longer than necessary. Besides, you have to wait a day before re-coat with this paint, so while one side is drying, I can work on the other side.
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 07:46 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by InternetRoadkill
I'm doing one side at a time because the weather is active this time of year. I don't want raw metal exposed for any longer than necessary. Besides, you have to wait a day before re-coat with this paint, so while one side is drying, I can work on the other side.
k that makes sense now. are you just going to pound out the body damage? or bondo or whats your plan?
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 09:09 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Tylerars24
after some quick reading about the interlux "self leveling" paint, it seems that rolling and tipping would yield results on par with spraying.

read the data sheets and give them a call, u might just save 300 bucks on a compressor.

then again, it is a pretty good excuse to get better equip.
Thats what all us married guys are looking for , a excuse that allows us to get better equipment in order to save money and have nicer toys
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 01:16 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Roboito
k that makes sense now. are you just going to pound out the body damage? or bondo or whats your plan?
A little of both. I'm not trying to make it a show car. There are some dents under the factory decals which aren't going to get fixed since I'm not interested in removing the decals. The rt rear quarter panel was pushed in. I think the PO kissed a pole at the gas station. I pushed it back out, but you can still see some waviness. I'll fix that somewhat, but I'm not going to try to make it perfect.

Incidentally, the Brightside paint works great thinned at 15%. I was able to reduce the gun pressure to 27psi. No runs and lots of shine. Woot!
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 02:07 PM
  #39  
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From: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Originally Posted by InternetRoadkill
A little of both. I'm not trying to make it a show car. There are some dents under the factory decals which aren't going to get fixed since I'm not interested in removing the decals. The rt rear quarter panel was pushed in. I think the PO kissed a pole at the gas station. I pushed it back out, but you can still see some waviness. I'll fix that somewhat, but I'm not going to try to make it perfect.

Incidentally, the Brightside paint works great thinned at 15%. I was able to reduce the gun pressure to 27psi. No runs and lots of shine. Woot!
Cool !



On A Steek
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Old Oct 27, 2007 | 09:45 AM
  #40  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Nice work.....good thread!

So, how are you getting around the decals with the paint?
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