Throttle Position Sensor
#1
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Throttle Position Sensor
Ok I set the TPS using the instruction that I found on the board and it worked perfectly. No engine codes were showing. Now two days later my rough idle has returned and I am getting a code 7 which is the TPS code. Is my TPS bad or what? I know I tightened the bolts down so I really don't think that it has moved. What do ya'll think?
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I have a 22re with a340h transmission. These are the instructions that I used http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
#4
It's possible that it's the connector.
When changing/adjusting the TPS, the connector gets some mechanical stress and if there is a failure at that point, it will (probably) throw a TPS code as well. Would make sense if the TPS didn't actually move between the time you set it up and the rough idle and check engine light re-appeared.
I'd carefully disconnect the cable and look in the connector for corrosion. I have found that WD-40 works wonders on electrical contacts. I had a failing ignition switch in my 94 Dodge Intrepid, Dodge is reported to have had all manner of problems with their switch contacts in about that time. I carefully removed the ignition switch (which, interestingly, is seperate from the locking cylinder, so one can replace the switch without re-keying, but that's neither here nor there) and pried it apart. Then I sprayed WD-40 into the switch shell and wiped the contacts with a cotton cloth. Another spray of WD-40 and I put it back together and re-installed it. It has worked consistently for two years now (before, the entire cluster would go dead intermittently and the transmission would go into limp-home mode because the TCM was losing power).
I'd give that a shot. Also, inspect the harness that is visible, right up to where it goes into the body of the plug for obvious damage.
When changing/adjusting the TPS, the connector gets some mechanical stress and if there is a failure at that point, it will (probably) throw a TPS code as well. Would make sense if the TPS didn't actually move between the time you set it up and the rough idle and check engine light re-appeared.
I'd carefully disconnect the cable and look in the connector for corrosion. I have found that WD-40 works wonders on electrical contacts. I had a failing ignition switch in my 94 Dodge Intrepid, Dodge is reported to have had all manner of problems with their switch contacts in about that time. I carefully removed the ignition switch (which, interestingly, is seperate from the locking cylinder, so one can replace the switch without re-keying, but that's neither here nor there) and pried it apart. Then I sprayed WD-40 into the switch shell and wiped the contacts with a cotton cloth. Another spray of WD-40 and I put it back together and re-installed it. It has worked consistently for two years now (before, the entire cluster would go dead intermittently and the transmission would go into limp-home mode because the TCM was losing power).
I'd give that a shot. Also, inspect the harness that is visible, right up to where it goes into the body of the plug for obvious damage.
#6
Heh, the PO of my dad's 86 Pickup broke the shell around the TPS connector, so it's currently held in place with a high-gear clamp. I don't know if I could recomend that, but it seems to be holding up. I'm thinking this is a weaker spot in the design, and this connector can and does give trouble quite a bit.
#7
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Everybody with a broken or cracked connector raise your hand! Same deal on my '85 4Runner. I guess I should actually check it since the last time I drove it it was missing some and I had just converted the screws on the TPS recently.
I doubt that connector is a part you can even get at the dealer too. Might be worth looking into though since it seems to be a common problem.
I doubt that connector is a part you can even get at the dealer too. Might be worth looking into though since it seems to be a common problem.
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#8
I don't beleive you can buy a new replacement without at least getting the harness. I'd recomend finding a salvage harness with a good connector on it, carefully cutting and soldering the wires, use shrink tubing to cover them, then maybe a layer of tape. I'd also immobilize the splice with a thin shim of metal or plastic and tape the whole mess tightly after the fix. Dress with some wire loom or a braided sleeve (probably should put that one before soldering if you're gonna go that route).
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