Ok I set the TPS using the instruction that I found on the board and it worked perfectly. No engine codes were showing. Now two days later my rough idle has returned and I am getting a code 7 which is the TPS code. Is my TPS bad or what? I know I tightened the bolts down so I really don't think that it has moved. What do ya'll think?

 

What engine do you have and what instructions did you use?

 

I have a 22re with a340h transmission. These are the instructions that I used http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

 

It's possible that it's the connector.

When changing/adjusting the TPS, the connector gets some mechanical stress and if there is a failure at that point, it will (probably) throw a TPS code as well. Would make sense if the TPS didn't actually move between the time you set it up and the rough idle and check engine light re-appeared.

I'd carefully disconnect the cable and look in the connector for corrosion. I have found that WD-40 works wonders on electrical contacts. I had a failing ignition switch in my 94 Dodge Intrepid, Dodge is reported to have had all manner of problems with their switch contacts in about that time. I carefully removed the ignition switch (which, interestingly, is seperate from the locking cylinder, so one can replace the switch without re-keying, but that's neither here nor there) and pried it apart. Then I sprayed WD-40 into the switch shell and wiped the contacts with a cotton cloth. Another spray of WD-40 and I put it back together and re-installed it. It has worked consistently for two years now (before, the entire cluster would go dead intermittently and the transmission would go into limp-home mode because the TCM was losing power).

I'd give that a shot. Also, inspect the harness that is visible, right up to where it goes into the body of the plug for obvious damage.

 

I'll try that, one of the clips on the harness is broken so maybe that is part of it.

 

Heh, the PO of my dad's 86 Pickup broke the shell around the TPS connector, so it's currently held in place with a high-gear clamp. I don't know if I could recomend that, but it seems to be holding up. I'm thinking this is a weaker spot in the design, and this connector can and does give trouble quite a bit.

 

Everybody with a broken or cracked connector raise your hand! Same deal on my '85 4Runner. I guess I should actually check it since the last time I drove it it was missing some and I had just converted the screws on the TPS recently.
I doubt that connector is a part you can even get at the dealer too. Might be worth looking into though since it seems to be a common problem.

 

I don't beleive you can buy a new replacement without at least getting the harness. I'd recomend finding a salvage harness with a good connector on it, carefully cutting and soldering the wires, use shrink tubing to cover them, then maybe a layer of tape. I'd also immobilize the splice with a thin shim of metal or plastic and tape the whole mess tightly after the fix. Dress with some wire loom or a braided sleeve (probably should put that one before soldering if you're gonna go that route).